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Large Cent Color Question- Pics Added

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 Posted 05/26/2010  5:42 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add needgames4lyfe to your friends list
Yes, if at all possible, get pics and show us; that way, we could make a judgement and help you out
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 Posted 05/26/2010  7:34 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jim1953 to your friends list
Thx, guys, I will try and get up there Friday and get pics if still there.
Jim
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 Posted 05/26/2010  8:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add albumcollector to your friends list
Pictures are a good idea, and make sure you check it out under magnification for any environmental damage.
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 Posted 05/26/2010  9:48 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jim1953 to your friends list
Had it under a 10X glass. Would like to look at it under my scope but that probably won't happen. To far away.
Jim
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 Posted 05/29/2010  8:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Halfwitty to your friends list
Pics aren't too bad Jim. It looks interesting.I would be concerned with the 6 O'clock reverse. Looks like someone attempted to fill the rim. The color isn't off as I have a large cent with the same color.It happens.JMO.
Edited by Halfwitty
05/29/2010 8:55 pm
Rest in Peace
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 Posted 05/29/2010  9:13 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add johnny54321 to your friends list
I think it has great details, almost XF. I agree with strong VF, prolly VF-35.

Though the darkness doesn't bother me, it does look like it has some mild "micro-porosity" if you will around some of the devices. It's probably not evident in hand, and I'm not sure if it's enough for a TPG to consider it corroded, but it would be a concern...(I just noticed you put this in the description, so it's not a surprise). Is there a fingerprint on the obverse? It's a nice coin overall, but I think you can do better with $750 in this market IMHO..
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 Posted 05/29/2010  9:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jim1953 to your friends list
halfwitty,
The mark you see is to be there. this die (?) has an indexing mark and the early die states as was explained to me looks like this. Latter die states it begins to blend into the field on the 5:00 side.
Jim
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 Posted 05/29/2010  10:01 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jim1953 to your friends list
johnny,
The lines that show with the flash on are not visible. You can not see them even with a 10X glass. They showed up on the pic and I saw them there for the first time. something in the planchet? It is not a finger print. Seems to be all the way across the coin and only under flash.
Jim
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 Posted 05/29/2010  10:07 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Halfwitty to your friends list
Hmmm.Interesting.Didn't know that.
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 Posted 05/29/2010  10:19 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add StJoeBlues to your friends list
Jim - I am not an expert in large cents by any means. But I am becoming fascinated with them and am learning as I go along.

Do you know the Sheldon number of the one you are looking at? I have narrowed it down to S207 vs. S198, leaning heavily towards S207. The description I read said there's a triangle-shaped Cud on the reverse of the S207, similar to the one in your photo. But the photo I saw from my source didn't have the same Cud. It did have a die crack running from the last A in America through the ribbon.

I think it's worth investigating the S198 a little bit, as well. The description I read said that a Cud developed later in the run. Only 4-5 of these specimens still exist, making them extremely rare and valuable. I was unable to find a photo of the Cud to rule out the S198.

Matt
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 Posted 05/29/2010  10:24 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jim1953 to your friends list
Joe,
I looked at my dealers book and as a group we agreed that it is 207.
Jim
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 Posted 05/29/2010  10:38 pm  Show Profile   Check vermontensium's eBay Listings Check vermontensium's eCrater Listings Bookmark this reply Add vermontensium to your friends list
Nice looking coin and I agree with S-207. Looks to be VF30++
Does not appear to be corroded. Nice Jim.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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 Posted 05/31/2010  07:49 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add funcitypapa to your friends list
I would approach this coin a little differently. First I would ask myself what the likely value is in an ANACS,NGC, or PCGS graded holder. Then I would discount from that number for the fact that it is not, and by rights probably was seen by a TPG, likely got a details grade and hence was cracked out of the holder now to offered raw. Isn't that the way the game is played? Same thing with stamps: you see a classic US stamp (pre 1880) in great shape but it comes without a certificate. First question: why doesn't this stamp have a cert?
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 Posted 05/31/2010  11:25 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KenKat to your friends list
Just for comparison, here's a couple of certified coins from ebay. Not sure if you are looking specifically for an 1800 or not:

1802 PCGS VF-25:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Exceptional-Cir...em20b0c40064

1803 ANACS VF-20:
http://cgi.ebay.com/1803-Draped-Bus...em5ad56c4a5d
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 Posted 05/31/2010  4:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jim1953 to your friends list
Thx, kenkat,

Your post drives home the point that funcitypapa made about being raw. Any coin of this caliber and type has more than likely been to a TPG and not being in a slab adds greatly to the consideration. As much as I would like to add the coin to the collection, I will not unless the price comes down.

Thanks for all the help and input everyone.

Jim
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