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What To Look For In A PCGS MS Buffalo?

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merclover's Avatar
United States
10635 Posts
 Posted 10/11/2011  03:39 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add merclover to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Hi everyone... I would like to purchase a nice high grade Buffalo, (PCGS preferred)... I'd like to get the most bang for my buck, and I need advice... what's a good grade and date to look for, and what would be a good price? Money is a concern, but I'm willing to spend a little more for a more collectible grade or date. And I know better struck examples fetch a premium... what should I look for in a MS Buffalo?

Thanks!
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CoinsKelly's Avatar
United States
3453 Posts
 Posted 10/11/2011  2:00 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinsKelly to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I am not a Buffalo expert but am getting into them. I have been advised to pay attention to the horn and I think the tail on the reverse, and the hair and the braid on the obverse.

I hope the Buffalo experts expand on this!
Rest in Peace
Buddy's Avatar
United States
7075 Posts
 Posted 10/11/2011  4:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Buddy to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Me too!
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oih82w8's Avatar
United States
7840 Posts
 Posted 10/11/2011  5:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add oih82w8 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Seems to be the general consensus; tail on the reverse, and braid on the obverse.
Edited by oih82w8
10/11/2011 5:06 pm
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paleoguy45's Avatar
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2936 Posts
 Posted 10/11/2011  5:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add paleoguy45 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If you want the most bang for your buck, I'd consider a 38-D or 38-D/D. You can get a "glow in the dark" MS-66 for under a hundred bucks. Even a MS-67 isn't too painful. For earlier ones the 1913 Type 1's are very reasonable. If the sky's the limit (forgetting about the 18/7-D) I'd go for a 1913-S Type2. Paleoguy
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mdh157's Avatar
United States
952 Posts
 Posted 10/11/2011  6:00 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mdh157 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
i agree with paleoguy.....the 38-d is common but you can get a really high grade coin reasonably. Depends on what you have to spend. anything MS that is semi key and prior to 1930 will cost you, for instance the d and s mint coins. you can also get an MS philly coin of most dates for reasonable money (low ms, that is), but they are usually weakly struck. there are soME very sharp 38-d or d/d's out there, and it will always be in demand and faIRLY EASY TO SELL IF NECESSARY.
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merclover's Avatar
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10635 Posts
 Posted 10/11/2011  6:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add merclover to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
OK, I hope this isn't seen as a stupid question, but I really don't know... can a MS-66 PCGS Buffalo receive that high of a grade but still be weakly struck?
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 Posted 10/12/2011  09:00 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Look for a PCGS slab with a grade of MS-70.
Stick with a 38D for a coin that you may find slabbed and graded as MS-65+ for a decent price. Not a real expensive one and since your not considering just selling it again, would make for a nice conversation piece. Almost every dealer at coin shows always say Full Horn is what they look for. It's just about the first thing to go on those.
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