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 Replies: 21 / Views: 3,589 |
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Valued Member
United States
72 Posts |
Hi Ike Fans: A few questions on which US Mint packages contain uncirculated and proof Ikes. - In which years were the brown silver proof Ikes released?
- I understand the only uncirculated Ikes in 1973 were in the mint's unc. packs. The Red Book lists P-D-S for the 1973 uncircluated pack, Mint pack. I found a pack with only P & D mints. Are all three mints in suposed to be in one pack?
- During the Ike years which unc US Mint packs contain Ikes?
- Finally, Are blue packs the uncirculated packs?
Thanks all, - Jim  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7840 Posts |
Blue Packs are UNC (1971-74) Soft Packs
Brown Packs are Proofs. (1971-74) Hard Packs
Mint sets that included Ike's were from 1973-1978
Ike's were not included in the 1971 and 1972 mint and proof sets
Edited by oih82w8
03/06/2012 7:49 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
As stated, there are Blue pack Unc's and brown box proofs from 71 - 74. Both are "S" mint and are 40% silver There was also 40% Ike's in the 1975 and 1976 3 coin sets. Those came in, red envelopes Unc's, Proofs were in a book type sort of red/white/blue package. They had bicentennial quarter, half dollar and Ike dollar 73 - 78 mint sets had the "P" and "D" Ike's. Clad "S" mint Ike's were in the 73 - 78 proof sets. FYI - not counting varities, the 1973 S brown box Ike is considered the key to the set |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1302 Posts |
I'd say the "key" isn't so much the 1973-S Brown Pack- although GR58 is right historically... but it is high grade 71-S. Blue Packs. Although most blue packs in the wild have been pored over by dealers (especially Sego and Hagar) those that remain in MS-66 are worth $115 or so bucks, MS-67 $350 or so bucks, and MS-68 $12,000.
I pulled a stunningly beautiful one that I thought would grade 67 but it came back 66 *grumble*.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
Quote:
I'd say the "key" isn't so much the 1973-S Brown Pack- although GR58 is right historically... but it is high grade 71-S. Blue Packs cc99999 I would agree, finding high grade coins in 71 S 40% Ike's is hard to find. I think the same can be said for finding high grade raw coins for 71/72 "P" and "D" coins, because they were not in the mint sets. So if a person was just going to put a set together, with not to much concern for grade, the 1973 S 40% proof Ike might cost the most ($20 - $30). But if a person was going to put high grade set, PR/MS 67 or better together. Then several of the coins would cost more than just a average 1973 S 40% proof brown box Ike. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1302 Posts |
hey GR58, Let's say you were starting from scratch and trying to put a set of Ikes together. Would you try to find the best grade coins possible (not talking about buying slabbed coins where the grade is "known" and the value is assessed based on the market... but raw in the OGP coins?
Is filling a hole the key for you or is filling the hole with the best possible coin you can find- and upgrading it if you find a better one?
I'm just curious as to which philosophy is more mainstream for album collectors and raw collectors.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
Quote:
Blue Packs are UNC (1971-74) Soft Packs
Brown Packs are Proofs. (1971-74) Hard Packs
Mint sets that included Ike's were from 1973-1978
Ike's were not included in the 1971 and 1972 mint and proof sets To add to this list Ikes are in the clad proof sets 1973 - 78 There is an Ike in the three piece silver 1976 Bicentennial proof set There is an Ike in the three piece Unc 1976 Bicentennial set Although the Bicentennial Ike is in both the 1975 and 1976 mint sets they are different. The 1975 set has the Type I Ike and 1976 has the type II Ike. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
Quote:
hey GR58, Let's say you were starting from scratch and trying to put a set of Ikes together. Would you try to find the best grade coins possible (not talking about buying slabbed coins where the grade is "known" and the value is assessed based on the market... but raw in the OGP coins?
Is filling a hole the key for you or is filling the hole with the best possible coin you can find- and upgrading it if you find a better one?
I'm just curious as to which philosophy is more mainstream for album collectors and raw collectors. CW99999 - that is a good question, and I think one you would get a lot of different opinions on. Of course the real answer wold be it is different for everyone, depending on the amount of money one is comfortable putting into a collection. As for me I have always been one that wants to get all the holes filled, thinking I would just be happy to have it done. In my experience, I have gotten sets completed and not been as happy when I have .. problem coins in the set. And just want to upgrade. So lately I have been trying to build sets with better grade coins right from the start. For Ike dollar sets I think it would be possible to put a high grade set together with out going to crazy on the cost. The problem would be, most collectors, including myself have a hard time being able to grade coins above MS 65. I do have a complete Ike dansco that is in pretty good grades, but I know many could be much better. Also there is the problem of finding access to large groups of Ike dollars. Most coin shops will deposit the clad coins at their banks, and many send the 40% silver ones off to be melted. I am thinking of doing a slabbed set, but not sure if I would break them open to put into another Dansco. of course if I can find some high grade raw ones, I would up date my current dansco |
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Moderator
 United States
188342 Posts |
Nothing for me to add here.  |
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Valued Member
 United States
72 Posts |
Since Eisenhower dollars were not included in the 1971 and 1972 mint sets where do most of you get good '71 & '72 uncirculated Ikes? - Jim |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3755 Posts |
Jim, you just have to search. There are plenty out there that are still Unc coins. You just gotta find them. A dilligent search on ebay will turn up actual rolls. I have one seller saved that I plan on getting some from. As for cc's points. You can say that about ANY coin prior to the 90's. The higher the grade, the harder it is to find and becomes more of a key. Simply put, that 73 is the base key coin of the series. Regardless of grade, it is harder to find and consistently runs more money. |
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Moderator
United States
188342 Posts |
I cannot help you there. My 1971 and 1972 Eisenhower dollars are average, circulated pieces. |
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Valued Member
United States
72 Posts |
In the above post smokeriderdon said: Quote:Jim, you just have to search. There are plenty out there that are still Unc coins. You just gotta find them. A dilligent search on ebay will turn up actual rolls. I have one seller saved that I plan on getting some from. Well, short of buying a set, which takes all the fun out of finding the coins, I guess I'll have to work harder to find the unc. Ikes. - Jim P.S. My Credit Union dosen't have Ikes. I wonder it the other banks in town will sell me Ikes if I don't have an account there? Edited by JimHSoars
03/07/2012 4:54 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1302 Posts |
Great feedback- you know here's the thing about collecting. It really is all about you and what you like. What your attachment to the coin's history- the coin's design. Whether you like toning- or blast white coins... whether you want one of each of the best one ever minted. I know folks that have Ike sets that cost thirty thousand dollars or more- and I know folks that have a set in an album that they'd be happy to take $600 for if they were offered it. For this series, the high end collector is safe, in my opinion, spectacular- take your breath away Ikes- are extremely rare. I have one such Ike, it's a 73-D in MS-66 that is woefully undergraded. I can't look at it without smiling. It's my favorite coin in my collection and I could never let it go. But you don't have to drop a lot of coin to own this set- which is cool... my only advice to would be Ike Collectors is this. Think about what it is you want down the road. Do you want to have a set for fun- and not make Ikes the centerpiece of your collection? Then be a little selective and buy nicer BU coins as you run across them- don't be in a hurry- and have fun. If you want something you can sell down the road- and make a profit- be extra careful- do your research- and buy only the best quality coins you can find in the grade you want to buy at. There are MS-66 Ikes that will sell for multiples of guide price and there are MS-66 Ikes that will sell for a fraction of guide price. Protect yourself and learn the difference.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3755 Posts |
Certainly you want to get the best examples of any coins you collect. It really is based on how much money you have to spend. none of the coins in y Dansco are circulated. Not all super high grade, but all uncirculated. I will upgrade the lower end coins as I find better ones. I think that is the approach most folks take. And with Ikes, I think that would be the way to go. If you are collecting Morgans, you will have to lower your expectations unless you are a very wealthy person.
Jim, banks pretty much dont get Ikes anymore. While they are legal tender, they really arent a "circulation" coin. They may have them if someone turns them in, but thats usually it. I have gotten some very nice coins that way, so just be sure to ask the teller any time you are in a bank.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
Quote:Since Eisenhower dollars were not included in the 1971 and 1972 mint sets where do most of you get good '71 & '72 uncirculated Ikes? That's the major problem with the Ike set. The 1971 and 72 coins are not easy to come by in Unc and typically are not nice coins when you do find them. |
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Replies: 21 / Views: 3,589 |
Posted 03/06/2012 10:50 pm
![Which-US-Mint-Packages-Contain-Ikes-[eisenhower]](https://www.coincommunity.com/forum/uploaded/jbuck/20180302_dot2.gif)
