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 Replies: 12 / Views: 1,849 |
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Valued Member
United States
207 Posts |
I know a guy who has a 1909s VDB. He is my best friend of 20 year's father. I just got into this coin collecting about a month ago and my buddy told me that I should ask his dad about his collection. So I stopped over there and asked, and he brought out two books. One was a Buffalo nickel book about 20% full and the other was a full Jefferson nickel book. He told me that he has some penny books too, but didnt bring them out. Then he told me how he filled them all when he was a kid, and that it took him forever to find a 1909s VDB but that he found one. He didn't seem too interested in the coins anymore, and even said he hasn't even looked at them in probably 20 years. The books had about an inch and a half of dust on them. So basically I am going to stop back over and ask him if he would be willing to sell the 1909s VDB. So my question is what would be a fair price for me to spend? I know that condition is everything. I know the coin is not graded, and i'd assume it is circulated because he said that he found it about 45 years ago. Is there a safe price that I could pay if it was in pretty poor condition? Or a round about price if it still looks shiny with a few nicks and scratches? I also don't want to rip him off and he is an honest man, and I'm not into ripping people off. I'm also not sure if he would even be willing to sell it. But I'm willing to buy it. So it never hurts to ask. Any opinions or pointers on what I should look for? Thanks |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4897 Posts |
ask if you can take a pic and post it here before you buy.
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts |
Just note that fakes of these have been made over many decades. A micrograph around the mint mark area would be useful.
USB microscopes are the most appropriate tool for this. They are quite inexpensive.
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Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
Edited by John1
03/18/2012 08:09 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2335 Posts |
At the risk of sounding like a broken record.....there are, & always have been, fakes out there. I bought a fairly large collection last year that had been put together in the late 60's & early 70's. It was a large & varied collection assembled by someone that had at least bought the reference books of the time. There were a couple key date coins that were fake.
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Rest in Peace
United States
9104 Posts |
 , EnigmaticMindx! First thing to check is all svdb have sharp vdb. |
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Valued Member
 United States
207 Posts |
Oh wow, I didn't even think of the chance of it being fake just because I know he found it in circulation many years ago. But it makes sense. People fake everything valuable and have for a long time.
Also biggfredd by sharp vdb you mean like the vdb doesn't look all mushy? Kind of like how the real copper 1943's are very sharp. Unlike the one in the other current thread on here?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1812 Posts |
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts |
Broken-Coin: I am not the guy considering to buy, but I am happy to learn the detail, thanks.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
You might want to copy this to a word page. It is copyrighted and may need to be removed. So copy/paste when you can to save it.
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Valued Member
United States
275 Posts |
 *Borrowed from Coop :o) P.S. Yes I am slowly stealing all of Coops pictures lol Edited by Coppertop
03/19/2012 03:08 am
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Rest in Peace
United States
9104 Posts |
Quote:
Also biggfredd by sharp vdb you mean like the vdb doesn't look all mushy? Kind of like how the real copper 1943's are very sharp. Unlike the one in the other current thread on here?
I should have been more specific. All periods should be sharp. |
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Valued Member
United States
207 Posts |
Thanks guys. You are all awesome! Those pics and descriptions will help a lot!
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Replies: 12 / Views: 1,849 |
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Posted 03/18/2012 12:59 am
