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Replies: 42 / Views: 6,206 |
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Valued Member
United States
67 Posts |
Greetings; I just acquired this coin and for the most part it has all the earmarks of being authentic.  The obverse and reverse show consistent wear and toning.    The position of the mintmark aligns with one of the four dies that were used with this coin. It also shows the proper mint mark itself, with the serifs being parallel. Note that it is offset slightly fro the 0 in the date. All what I would expect to see.  The positioning of the VDB is proper and seems to be of the right type of lettering with wear.  My biggest concern is that there seems to be flowing, meandering lines across the reverse. I hope they show up in the pics. I would like any input as to the authenticity of this coin. The dealer was reputable and stands behind a complete 30 day refund policy. Question... Does this look like an authentic coin? Everything I see (besides these waves on the reverse) tells me that it is the real deal. Any opinions would be appreciated. Jerry
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Pillar of the Community
United States
642 Posts |
Looks legit to me, but I'm curious to see the comments by the Lincoln experts. I've seen similar lines in high grade 2 Cent coins, but not in Lincolns.
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
I'd say the same but again, I'm not a Lincoln expert either. I bought mine certified. BadThad should chime in soon.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10982 Posts |
The coin looks good but the holder doesn't. A valuable coin deserves better than a cardboard 2X2.
Buying a key date such as this raw should involve a substancial discount to retail market value of a certified, problem-free piece of the same grade. This is because the buyer is assuming a risk that would otherwise have paid for by the seller.
So what did the seller say? Problem-free? Grade? Why not slabbed?
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Valued Member
 United States
67 Posts |
Wow! Thanks for all the quick responses. Seller claims a PCI slab and, "the slab itself was "nasty" with scrapes, scratches and gummy residue all over it." His grade was VF30, although the details show a little better than that. It's a fair grade. The coin has no damage or pitting that I can see, even with a 15X loop (I think I spelled that wrong). I even pulled back wit a 10X to study it for a better overall look at the coin, and took many close-up pics to cut it up, so to speak. The VDB letters show exactly what I would expect to see, EXCEPT those waves which, as I said, show up across most of the reverse.
Thanks again for the quick responses.
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Valued Member
 United States
67 Posts |
I will have it authenticated, but I have a 30 day window for returns (very generous). It would take longer than that to get it back from any of the top three. Even if it comes back authentic, I think I would break it back out due to the fact that it goes in a raw collection that my father gave me when I was 16. To place an authentic, raw coin in the set to complete it would mean much to me. I think we all collect coins because they mean something to us, and this would be symbolic of the completion of something my father entrusted to me while I was so young. I am looking forward to showing him the rag-tag set he gave me finished. I could do it the other way... show it to him and THEN slab the coin... I like that.
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
That's very cool indeed! Just make sure to save the slab insert to prove authenticity if you ever plan to sell it...which I know you won't do anytime soon ;)
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Have you tried contacting the dealer and see if you could get a return extension? Someone along the lines of asking if you can have until the coin returns from pgcs/ngc ect to return it and that as long as the coin comes back authentic you intend to keep it.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3540 Posts |
I see the lines you speak of. Interesting. Would definitely send in for grading.
But, that coin is better than VF. Agree on a price, return policy, and the "what if it does not grade"....as in...."genuine" but cleaned.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1796 Posts |
If the TPGs will take too long, you could always submit it to The Black Cabinet; however, where you'd have it back in a few days, such submissions are limited to pieces that you suspect are counterfeit to begin with.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1150 Posts |
The coin looks authentic to me...however, it's probably not in a PCGS/NGC slab because it would come back with an issue, such as a cleaning, maybe? Call me paranoid, but with coins such as this they are immediately suspect with me unless graded by NGC/PCGS/ANACS.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3278 Posts |
Do a search on the die mark inside the "s". That may add some confidence if it is present.
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Valued Member
 United States
67 Posts |
Upstate, I found that reference and the die mark shows in the upper, inner section of the S. Looks like a little dot inside the swirl. mitchhailey, I would settle for a cleaning. I kinda expected it, but the coin is attractive as she sits. Steve, I love the idea of a quick verification so I can stay inside the 30 day return policy.
Thanks all!
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Since your discussing one of the most counterfeited coins in the USA, I'd really want it varified by a TPGS. Pending on how well you know the seller, you could simply tell him your going to send it in for authenticating. And if it comes back OK, then no problem. IF on the other hand it comes back as a fake, he should really take it back. Another thing to try is check for any coin shows or coin clubs in your area. Go to those with the coin and ask as many dealers as possible what they think. Due to how many of those are counterfeited, those that are making them are getting better at it all the time. And for that reason I'd want it checked out as much as possible. Some are so good that even dealers have been fooled.
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Rest in Peace
United States
9104 Posts |
Quote: Have you tried contacting the dealer and see if you could get a return extension? All this nicey-nice agreement stuff is fine, but let's move to the bottom line: Title to a counterfeit cannot pass, period.In layman's terms, that means it doesn't matter if you find out it's fake in 29 days, or 29 years, he doesn't have the legal right to sell a counterfeit or altered coin, and has to refund your money. You may be able to work out an extension for grading, a deal where he pays expenses if it is determined to be fake, or an agreement to take it back if it comes back "genuine, no grade", but as far as a fake is concerned, there is no time limit on a return.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
biggfredd I couldnt agree more. Was just trying to suggest a way to approach the dealer without causing potential conflict before anything is determined. I do not personally know the dealer or what kind of relationship they have and if it is somewhere he goes often personally I dont see any advantage to insulting him and what hes selling without proof.
In the event it was a fake though I agree 100 percent that he should take it back regardless of the time and at the point the gloves are off with being polite if he refuses.
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Replies: 42 / Views: 6,206 |