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 Replies: 8 / Views: 1,594 |
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Valued Member
United States
227 Posts |
Hi guys, I'm new to coins and new to this forum, so I have something I'd like an opinion on. I've spent a ton of time over the past week looking at images of coins and reading about them, but there's only so much I can learn without asking questions. (note: not thinking about buying these at all) I found this listing on ebay of a coin that seems moderately worn down (the date especially) but somehow appears to have retained amazing luster. Link here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1923-STANDI...em3a740d0e3a My question is how can those details be worn that much while the luster remains in apparently such good condition? Could this be photoshop effects, cleaning/dipping, or just good photography and lighting? I understand that the SLQ's - even type 2 - have dates that wear relatively quickly in circulation, but I still find this a bit strange. Another listing from the same seller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1926-STANDI...em3a73ee8522 On this coin, I see a bubble or bump on the obverse below the "Y" in "LIBERTY" - in both pictures. What is that? I've seen this type of defect on counterfeit coins and I'm just wondering what you guys make of it for this case. Also do you think the second "V" in "PLVRIBVS" on the reverse looks 'off' (kinda squished and at an odd angle)? Sorry for so many questions I'm just very curious and want to learn what I can. These things may be explainable but I'd like to clear it up now so I know in the future. |
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
986 Posts |
 Hi, what you are seeing in the first picture is not mint luster. What you are seeing is a coin that has been harshly cleaned. Some people will clean a coin thinking that if it's all nice and shiny looking it will be worth more. In most cases it will actually be worth a lot less. Compare the coin you were looking at with a bona fide BU coin that has original mint luster. http://coins.ha.com/c/item.zx?saleN...o=8449#PhotoSee the difference? The ebay coin might have shiny surfaces but those surfaces are lifeless and bland. I'm not sure what is up with the dot under 'Liberty' on the second coin. Without getting an up close look at it I'd have to guess it is a die chip. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
On the pre 1925 SLQ the date was the highest potion of the coin and often comes weak even on full UNU coins. It also wore off very quickly just like the Buffalo nickels. So the weak date on that 23 does not indicate wear. I may just be the lighting or the fact that they were photograpghed in the 2X2's but neither coin really shows any luster. In the pictures they both have the appearance of flat overdipped coins that have had the luster stripped away. As for the "bump" under the Y on the 26, I think what you are actually seeing is just a spot. I don't think it is actually a raised feature on the coin. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
759 Posts |
1923: I would say most definitely cleaned. The seller does state it might have been dipped, but he also says it has full luster. Hmmm. Should you ever venture into purchasing coins, I would say one of the most important things to learn in that listing is the 14 day return period. 1926: good eye and good idea to be wary of counterfeits. In this case though, compare to a graded example such as the following. You'll see the same going on with the second V. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1926-Standi...em564a2a8524And welcome! |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
I think its a good practice to buy a few inexpensive slab coins from the big 3 in the beginning, study how it got that grade vs. images of coins, or coins graded non slab.
Books can only go so far without the physical coin in hand.
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Valued Member
 United States
227 Posts |
Guys thanks for the replies, that helps a lot.
Can someone explain in more detail why its not luster in the first link? Is it just based on how the light reflects off the coin (i.e. the lack of cartwheel effect)?
Regarding the 2nd link (the 1926), if I had that coin in my hand and it DID have a bump under the "Y", and it was NOT a spot or mark, would that mean it was counterfeit?
And yes I pretty much agree with the 'books/images can only go so far' thing... I'm starting to see where you really just have to have it in-hand to fully appreciate the differences, especially (obviously) at higher grades.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6384 Posts |
Quote:
Is it just based on how the light reflects off the coin (i.e. the lack of cartwheel effect)? Yep, pretty much. The 1923 has a diffuse character to the shine which is not much like the brilliant luster typical of an original MS coin. Some coins like Peace dollars have what is called a "satin" luster which gives less of a cartwheel effect but still will be much different than that 1923 quarter. I've heard that all you need to correctly grade coins is "a good eye, a good light, a good glass, and 20 years experience". If you carefully examine many mint state coins and compare them to cleaned coins you will gradually get a good feel for the differences. At that point you will wonder why it used to seem so confusing! (Of course, there will always be those "lightly cleaned" coins that were only slightly molested. Those will continue to offer challenges even to experts). |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
227 Posts |
Thanks justcarl! Everyone's been very helpful and quick to answer my questions.
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Replies: 8 / Views: 1,594 |
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Posted 05/11/2012 10:27 am
