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Replies: 8 / Views: 1,517 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1348 Posts |
I am looking at putting together a couple proof sets from the late 30's early 40's. I am wanting to buy graded coins individually to maybe get a good deal. My concern is that if there are standard regular issued coins that grade with the proof marking. Is there a definite way that the TPG distinguish that it was definitely a coin from a proof set?
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
The detail in early proofs was not degraded by laser etching or sandblasting, to produce the cameo effect for the NCLT market. The result is much more exact and faithful to the original master die. A large proportion of the early proofs have suffered ever so slightly tiny nicks and hairlining over the year, and so you get 'almost FDC', not 'FDC' The TPG services are not worth paying for, if they cannot distinguish an early proof from a pristine high quality business strike. A lot of collectors however, have trouble distinguisging the minor differences between them.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1817 Posts |
If I understand your question correctly, are there business strikes that could be possibly confused with proof strikes from the 1936-1942 era? Possibly on the 1936 coins as the earliest sets were made with a matte finish similar to the matte/roman finish proofs of 1907-1916. You would have to compare a typical unc 1936P coin with the equivalent matte proof to decide. There might be a few '36 proof masquerading as high MS coins, that is definitely possible. The '36s would be the most expensive coins in the set you're after, anyway. All the other years should have a full mirror finish.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Were proofs even issued for all the coins of those years? My understanding was the early proof sets were 1 or 2 coins around that time. Either way though I think youd probably get a better price piecing one together on youre own. At least on ebay the "full sets" are almost always marked with a premium for the time and effort to get it together
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Valued Member
291 Posts |
I have one earlier proof set (1942 with both nickels) raw in a Capital holder that I purchased many years ago. IMO the coins are easily distinguishable from the circulation strikes of the era. If you are buying TPG certified coins, I think it extremely unlikely that they would not be able to discern a proof strike from a gem circulation strike.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1348 Posts |
That answers my question. Thanks all. I just didn't want to purchase these at such a high demand and then realize some business strikes are being graded as proofs. Thus hurting the collectible value of my set.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1208 Posts |
The TPGs aren't the be all, end all... One of my local dealers has several examples of counterfiet coins that have been certified by TPGs on his wall for the world to see.
If they will certify a counterfiet from time to time, then they just might also miss a proof, or call unc a proof by accident. Or at least a reasonable person might draw that conclusion.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: The TPGs aren't the be all, end all... One of my local dealers has several examples of counterfiet coins that have been certified by TPGs on his wall for the world to see.
If they will certify a counterfiet from time to time, then they just might also miss a proof, or call unc a proof by accident. Or at least a reasonable person might draw that conclusion.
Theyre better now then they had been in the past. But just because a dealer says its counterfit doesn't mean it actually is. That said yes they will miss some things from time to time just like the mint puts out errors from time to time, but remember the TPGS do millions of coins. The overwhelming majority are exactly what they say they are
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1348 Posts |
i would bet that the dealer has more fakes go through his shop (percentage wise) unnoticed than a top 3 TPG
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Replies: 8 / Views: 1,517 |
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