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Proof Sets - Noob Question

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Edge's Avatar
United States
8 Posts
 Posted 07/16/2012  10:58 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add Edge to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Hi all,

I recently bought my first proof set and want to start buying proof sets from the mint every year. I looked at some of the values in the
2013 Red Book to get an idea of the value of coins purchased this way and I noticed that the "Proofs / Mint" prices towards the back of the book value the set as just that a "set" and the values are quite a bit lower than if I value the coins individually.

Am I missing something... are the coins really more valuable if I break up the set or is a Proof Set different from a coin in Proof condition?

Thanks,

Edge
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upstate's Avatar
United States
3278 Posts
 Posted 07/16/2012  12:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add upstate to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Lucky you, many of the proof set can be obtained, really from around 1960 to present, inexpensively.
Many can be had at near the original cost from the mint. True, individual coins are listed as being worth more than sets,
but any set is cheaper than the cost of buying coins individually and Red Book is just a guide.
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upstate's Avatar
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 Posted 07/16/2012  12:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add upstate to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

I see your new to the forum
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SaintRidley's Avatar
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592 Posts
 Posted 07/16/2012  12:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SaintRidley to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
You might want to remember that the individual prices assume a certain grade, meaning the coin has been slabbed. That's where the difference is likely to be coming from.
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wquinn's Avatar
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2295 Posts
 Posted 07/16/2012  1:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add wquinn to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply


Collecting proof and mint sets is fun and it is a great way to work on getting coins for each year and mintmark.

Are you adding the individual prices from the Red Book and comparing it to the set cost? Usually a set is cheaper than the individual coins.

The Red Book is just a guide and the prices can be quite outdated too, since they gather the data about a year before the date on the book.
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KenRingold's Avatar
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594 Posts
 Posted 07/16/2012  2:35 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KenRingold to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
You might want to remember that the individual prices assume a certain grade, meaning the coin has been slabbed. That's where the difference is likely to be coming from.

We are talking RedBook here and those prices ARE NOT for slabbed coins. RedBook prices are for raw coins. Add more to the price if it is slabbed.
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Edge's Avatar
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 Posted 07/16/2012  3:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Edge to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks for the replies :)

yeah, I am just referring to how the set is worth much less than if you added the price of each coin individually and I am using Red Book, but only to get a rough idea of the value.
I was just really surprised that you could get more for proof coins if you sold them separately, rather then selling them as a set.

Thanks again :)
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Senex's Avatar
291 Posts
 Posted 07/16/2012  4:28 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Senex to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
We are talking RedBook here and those prices ARE NOT for slabbed coins. RedBook prices are for raw coins. Add more to the price if it is slabbed.

Red Book prices are generally extremely optimistic.
The vast majority of modern issues, even slabbed, would be lucky to fetch Red Book prices.
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basebal21's Avatar
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 Posted 07/16/2012  5:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
yeah, I am just referring to how the set is worth much less than if you added the price of each coin individually and I am using Red Book, but only to get a rough idea of the value.
I was just really surprised that you could get more for proof coins if you sold them separately, rather then selling them as a set.


Its kind of one of those yes and no answers. If you get a set that contains a coin that would grade extremely high then yes it could be worthwile to break it up. If the set is nice but nothing out of the ordinary theres no real added value to breaking it up. Slabbed coins will always cost more because of the cost of grading, but even then many of those will be worth less than it cost to have them graded so its not worth the money for you to send them in
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Bizybackson's Avatar
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 Posted 07/16/2012  7:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Bizybackson to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I wouldn't worry about TPG encapsulated coins right now as a new beginner. It igets very confusing and can lead you up some blind alleys. Just buy the sets you enjoy, learn more about the coins, from the designs to how they are made, then specialize.
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jbuck's Avatar
United States
187862 Posts
 Posted 07/17/2012  5:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It is simple. There are more people who collect one denomination than there are those who collect all of the denominations (or complete proof sets).

People will pay more to get the one coin they want and not have to hassle liquidating the coins they do not want (from a complete proof set).

For those who collect all denominations, like myself, it is better to buy a set and break it; the savings is significant.

For those who collect only Lincoln cents (or Jefferson nickels, or Quarters, etc.) it is easier to pay more for just the one coin than it is to buy a whole set and have to sell the remaining coins. Sure, they would save some money (and actually make the total cost for that cent much lower than its value base on it being in the set), but the time and effort is not free.
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larsdog's Avatar
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593 Posts
 Posted 07/17/2012  5:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add larsdog to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply


There are also those that collect the sets themselves. I am one of those collectors.

Proof-Sets---Noob-Question

Not only are the sets cheaper than the individual coins, runs of sets are MUCH cheaper than the individual sets one at a time. 1968 to 1998 is a very popular run of 31 sets that often goes for less than $200 including shipping. If you bought those sets one at a time you would likely pay at least $300. You can get a complete run of Proofs from 1968 to date. Prior to 1968, things get a little weird. First of all, the proof sets weren't made in San Francisco prior to 1968, so only 1968+ proofs will have an S mint mark. Also, there weren't ANY proofs for 1965, 1966, or 1967. There were Special Mint Sets issued, but they aren't strictly proofs. The 1965 set is packaged like an Uncirculated Mint set. The other two are sealed more like a proof set in a long narrow hard case. For 1964 and prior, the Proof sets don't have any mint mark, just like the Philadelphia business strike. Obviously the proofs look different, but you can't tell just by mint mark as you can with almost all 1968+ coins. (There are a few S mint business strikes from 1968+, but not many). The price for some of the early 60s and late 50s proof sets is driven by the price of silver as much as anything. You can see in your Red Book how prices skyrocket as you go back and there are additional breaks in the dates.
Edited by larsdog
07/17/2012 5:54 pm
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basebal21's Avatar
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 Posted 07/17/2012  6:24 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Lars I cant remember If I have asked you before or not but what kind of binder and sheets are those? I have the silver proof sets and would love to have them more displayable in how they are stored?
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Clint's Avatar
United States
194 Posts
 Posted 07/17/2012  6:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Clint to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Lighthouse/Eagle sells pages like that.
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basebal21's Avatar
13014 Posts
 Posted 07/17/2012  7:28 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks clint. So just a normal binder with those pages I'm assuming?
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larsdog's Avatar
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593 Posts
 Posted 08/30/2012  11:04 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add larsdog to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Thanks clint. So just a normal binder with those pages I'm assuming?

Sorry to just now notice this question. Eagle (www.eaglecoinholders.com) sells the pages and albums, but you could use any 3 ring binder you want. I do, however, suggest the "D" ring binder, as shown. It stores better on the shelf.

If you want to know how to mount '66 and '67 SM sets, send me a PM.
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