| Author |
 Replies: 11 / Views: 1,271 |
|
|
Valued Member
United States
455 Posts |
How do you tell how nice a proof coin is...in other words, what kind of grading to expect? I recently received my 2013 ASE from the US Mint and the thing looks perfect. How would I know (for the most part) how it would grade? I mean the difference between a PR69 and PR70 is.......what? Any thoughts you can give that would help me determine whether or not to send it in would be great. Thanks. |
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
Australia
4411 Posts |
Its always been a mystery to me. I cant tell the difference between 69 and 70.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1302 Posts |
there are several technical requirements, but it basically crystalizes like this:
the first difference between a 70 and a 69 has to do with the condition of the dies used to strike the coin. Fresh dies are necessary to create a coin that really, really pops. the second difference has to do with the condition of the planchet used to strike the coin. Are there visible imperfections? If yes, not a 70.
another thing to keep in mind, not all 69s are equal and not all 70s are equal. some are more appealing than others- all grades work on a spectrum.
Most PR70DCAM coins are submitted through bulk submissions, which means the company getting the coins graded pay a fraction of what you as a collector would pay. The grading services find the 70s by looking at hundreds of examples one after the other.
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
I would add that if you have dreams of sending it in and getting a 70 or cherry picking 70s to send them in I wouldnt spend the money. If you want 70s buy 70s its cheaper. Now it could happen on a few but no one consistently hits them in small lots.
Like CC mentioned the big companies get them with the bulk submissions basically playing the numbers game. They know that some will be in a large monster box and orders of that size its something like 10 dollars a coin to get it graded so per coin they pay much less.
|
|
Valued Member
 United States
455 Posts |
Quote:
If you want 70s buy 70s its cheaper. I think that's good advise. I've got what looks like a perfect coin but the cost to send it in I think is too much...especially since I don't have an account anywhere. Thanks for all the comments everyone. |
|
Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:
I've got what looks like a perfect coin but the cost to send it in I think is too much. Thats really the biggest problem trying to get them on your own. Most of them now do look like 70s since the 69s and 70s are really impossible to differentiate with the naked eye. But with the cost of grading a single coin or even a handful of coins they have to be a 70 or youve lost money for the modern non circulating coins. I think most people have tried that idea at some point and we probably all had the same disappointment I would guess |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4901 Posts |
I agree with Basebal21...as I mentioned in a previous post with these proofs it it MUCH more cost effective to just buy the PF70's already graded. I ALWAYS sent in the best of my 10 proofs every year and did pretty well with getting 70's back...but...it really is not worth the chance of getting 69's back. This year I pre-ordered 8 PF 70's (4 ER NGC and 4 FS PCGS) at $93.95 with free shipping and ordered 5 '13 proofs from the Mint to keep. If you do the math the single proof from the Mint costs $67.90 shipped...add grading and two way shipping and you get OVER the cost of just ordering the 70's As was said in the previous comments if you want a PF70 order it early...if you want a nice collector coin in its own box get it from the Mint Regarding the original question...I can pretty well distinguish a 69 from a 70 BUT it is very difficult to distinguish a 70 from a 69...sounds like a dumb statement but if I see a little mark/scuff on a coin it most likely will be the 69 that I predict...BUT...if I see a "perfect" coin with no detracting marks it doesn't necessarily mean it's a 70.... Hard to explain...then again it could just be the mood of the grader...  Edited by Foxwoods Man
02/13/2013 07:23 am
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1254 Posts |
There is also the option of taking the coin to a local coin dealer who can submit coins to the graders. They could also give you their opinion on what they think the grade of the coin is and whether it would be worth sending it in for grading. Just another option to consider, but I am like the others, if you truly want a 70, go buy a 70, then there is no risk at hardly any increase in the total overall price of the graded coin.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4901 Posts |
NGC...$20 grading fee (Early Release)
......$27 2 way shipping/insurance costs (approx)
......$67.90 cost of coin shipped from the Mint
Total for a NGC PF70 (assuming you get a 70 grade).$114.90
PCGS..$34 grading fee (First Strike)
......$27 two way shipping
......$8 processing fee
Total cost $136.90 for the PCGS 70
Pre-ordered PF70 (ER/FS) $94 shipped
...and there is a minimum of 5 Modern coins for NGC submission
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2543 Posts |
The coins need to be examined under magnification. I believe the TPG's use 7X. It is not all about marks and scratches either. I have a friend/dealer who is a very good grader. Coins I thought were perfect, he showed me why not under magnification. While the coin was spotless, he showed me the very ends of the laurel leaves, where the device was very minutely was cut off . Where the silver hadn't quite finished flowing completely into the die before the pressure was released. It was not visible to the naked eye and I only noticed it when he showed me a true 70. So it is not always spots and nicks that make the difference between a 69 and a 70. I think it also has a lot to do with bulk submissions. If you submit one coin it gets examined and graded totally against standards. In bulk submissions, it is only human nature to second guess, and tend to grade the coins against each other " This one is a seventy, this one doesn't look as nice so it is a sixty nine, this one looks better than both of the others I just graded . Do I go back and lower the other ones to sixty eight and sixty nine ? or just grade this one seventy also and move on ?" I think that is way dealers submitting bulk coins get so many 70's |
|
Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:
As was said in the previous comments if you want a PF70 order it early Thats a real good strategy you can get some really good deals with the presales before the prices spike for a bit. The 2012 ASE sets were a steal when they first came out in the 70s |
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
The difference between a PR-69 and PR-70 pretty much comes down to what kind of a day the grader is having. Payday and he's feeling good? It's PR-70 day. Slight hangover from last night a lot more PR-69's. Someone shook up his coke before he opened it.....and nobody is getting better than a 68 today.
|
| |
Replies: 11 / Views: 1,271 |
|
Posted 02/12/2013 11:51 pm
