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 Replies: 14 / Views: 7,867 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
717 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1327 Posts |
here is what I feel are the key and semi keys to the set
the Key is the 1916-D
then the 1921-P
1921-D
the semi key I would say are
1926-s
1931-D
1931-S
If there are other they will be put down in another post those are the ones I remember off the top of my head.
You picked a good set.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
675 Posts |
The 1916-D costs several hundred dollars in any grade.
The 1921 and 1921-D can be had for $35-60 dollars if well worn, (the 21-D is the pricier of the two).
All other coins in the set are quite inexpensive, with the ones djluster mentioned as the more expensive of those.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
If you are planning on putting your Merc Dimes in an album where you can see both sides, there is some things you will notice. The Mercury dimes are notorious for the Reverses being rotated. Some are minor, some are excessive. I am a Merc collector and have some with almost 180 ratation. I really like those things and have well into the 3,000 area of them. Presently 8 complete sets. If you find some with minor rotations, it is just to normal so ignor. If it is excessive, worth lots more. However, if you are smart and find a dealer that doesn't know this, you could chew him down substancially. I've done that many times. I not to long ago showed a high rotation on a 21D to a dealer and got it for half of what he wanted originally. As to others to watch for. Note the 31D has the 4th lowest mintage and is well under priced for now. Then carefully check out any 1942 and 42D merc's for the 42/41 dates. The 42/41 is very noticable but the 42D/41 is really tuff to notice. both are worth in the hundreds in almost any condition. In high grades they go into the thousands. Then naturally there is the 45 Micro S which is also climbing in value. If you check out the mint marks on Merc's you'll also find other micro letters for the Mint but are not publicized much. The 19D and S are not way up there in price but I've found they are difficult to find in high grades. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
651 Posts |
Two deceptive coins are the 1929D & 29S. I realize both have a decent mintage of 4.7 & 5 mil but finding a nice uncirculated coin was more of a challenge than I thought so the mintage #'s might be deceiving for this one.
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Member
United States
3242 Posts |
1928-S large & small date is a hard one too
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Valued Member
United States
214 Posts |
The 1926-S should grade VF before purchasing. The coin list for $225 in XF per Coin World Coin Values. |
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Rest in Peace
United States
3730 Posts |
Just Carl: Eight complete sets. Wow!! I am impressed!! I have serious doubts that I will ever complete just one.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
717 Posts |
Thanks for the feedback everybody. I bought a set last week when I was out of town, from a dealer, to start me off, that had 58 different dates for $75. I went to my local dealer a couple days ago & filled in another 6 of the least expensive missing dates. The dealer has my last 10 missing dates in stock for another $47 (not including the keys: 1916-D, 1921-P & 1921-D). My last 10 missing dates are 1916-S, 1917-D, 1919-S, 1925-D, 1926-S, 1927-D, 1927-S, 1928-D, 1931-D, & 1931-S. Average condition is Fine. The most expensive are the 1926-S for $10, 1931-D for $7, and the 1917-D & the 1927-D for $5 each. Of the remaining 6, 4 of them are $4 & 2 are $3. Not too bad! I didn't see any 42/41 dates, yet. And I didn't bother to ask the price on the keys.  Edited by yechi7
05/14/2007 02:06 am
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Valued Member
United States
56 Posts |
Second what Just Carl says about the 42/41-D overdate. It can be tough to notice.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
675 Posts |
I think that your dealer's prices sound good for the remaining 10 coins. My 1926-S cost $15, and is in the G/VG range, so $10 sounds great. As for the other key date prices, I recently bought a 1921-P in strong good condition for $38 shipped from ebay. The 21-D should be a little more. Be prepared to shell out at least $500 when the time comes for the 16-D in just AG condition! |
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Valued Member
United States
146 Posts |
Key dates
1916D G-4$850 VG-8$1250 F-12 $2500 VF-20 $4000 XF-40 $6000 AU-50 $9000
1921 G-4 $45 VG-8 $75 F-12 $125 VF-20 $300 EF-40 $575 AU-50 $900
1921D G-4 $65 VG-8 $125 F-12 $200 VF-20 $400 EF-40 $750 AU-50 $1200
SEMI-KEY DATES
1926S G-4 $9 VG-8 $11 F-12 $ 25 VF-20 $60 EF-40 $250 AU-50 $450
1931D G-4 $8 VG-8 $9 F-12 $12 VF-20 $20 EF-40 $35 AU-50 $50
1942 2OVER1 F-12 $625 VF-20 $800 EF-40 $900
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Valued Member
United States
133 Posts |
Dovid:
Good luck..............This is another beautiful set, I need the 1916-D, 1921 & 1921-D to complete the set, I may get these some day in certified grade, especially the 1916-D. They are on my want list.
Ron (ronaldb112)
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1031 Posts |
just carl, that's awesome that you have 8 complete sets. I still need 2. The 1916D and the 1942/41. I didn't know about the rotation on the reverse. Looks like I have more coins to look at again.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
That rotated reverse is something that is seldom noticed. The reason is in most instances if the obverse is not perfectly placed in an album or 2x2, the reverse being slightly rotated is missed. Also, many people even when they see it they don't remember the obverse being verticle so again, it is missed. I've got some where the reverse is rotated well over 90 degrees and almost 180 and it was never noticed by the dealers untill I pointed it out and then chewed them down in price as being defective, not an error coin. Also, most people are not even aware that all US coins are made in such a way that if you flip them over top to bottom, they will still be verticle and if you turn them from side to side the reverse will be upside down. Fantastic that every time I mention this people always take coins out and check to see if I am kidding. They never knew this and it is not widely publicized. Funny thing is at a coin show recently a dealer gave me a Mercury dime Album free so when I got home I took out all my duplicates. I started to go through them for the best grades and actually filled the entire album. I now have 9 complete sets. Still in this one the 42D/41 is the hold out and I refuse to buy something that is that difficult to notice. Rather just put a blank coin or washer in that spot. And one more thing about the reverse rotations on the Mercury dime is in almost every instance it is rotated to the left. Meaning the top of the reverse is tilted to the left. The right rotated ones are a realy minority and I suspect that in the future they will be worth a lot more. |
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Replies: 14 / Views: 7,867 |
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Posted 05/11/2007 2:33 pm
