| Author |
 Replies: 44 / Views: 5,065 |
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
2087 Posts |
I guess it depends on the method you use. Shutter shake is not a problem when you use long exposure times ( 4-30 seconds) that amount of time allows me to move the light around the coin, Of course with such long exposures I am using F16-32
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Quote:
I guess it depends on the method you use. Shutter shake is not a problem when you use long exposure times ( 4-30 seconds) that amount of time allows me to move the light around the coin, Of course with such long exposures I am using F16-32 Very true. In fact the way I showed that shutter shake was a problem on my D7000 was through a long exposure with delayed lighting. I darkened the room, set up a dim continuous light such that shutter speed was 2sec, set the shutter speed manually to 3sec, turned off the light, pressed the shutter release, waited 1sec, then turned the light on. This gave the camera 1sec to stabilize from shutter shake before the actual exposure started. The result was really dramatic! Many folks use delayed flash to achieve the same effect. Personally, for coins I'm not willing to use flash at all, especially since it's difficult enough to get coin lighting "right" without bringing in the variable of flash, its limitations in light placement, etc. I am also not willing to give up sharpness in my images by stopping down in order to lengthen exposure times, at least not while there is a hardware solution that already exists in every Canon camera... Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
627 Posts |
Quote:
brg what camera do you use? I've seen your site and your photos are fantastic! SuperDave is correct, I shoot Canon. I have both a 50D and a T2i. Most of my shots in the past year are with the T2i, as I never remove it from my bellows and copy stand set up. I mostly use the 50D for other non-numismatic photography. My coin photography was really shoddy until I found this forum. Ray and Dave both took me under their wings and had me up and running with a bellows and enlarging lens set-up within a month. I owe all of my photography progress to the great teachers on this site!  |
|
Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Quote:
I owe all of my photography progress to the great teachers on this site! Like it or not, some of the reason for your (considerable) success lies in the mirror. Some people are just not wired to work through a technical undertaking of this type. Quote:
Of course with such long exposures I am using F16-32 So the lack of worry about shutter shake is compensated by the loss of detail you're getting through diffraction, with such small apertures. Keep in mind, though, that none of the differences we're talking about here will ever be visible in a standard forum-size image post when you've downsized from a dSLR-size image. All of these details only address the very last 5% of image quality, visible only at 100% size. |
|
Pillar of the Community
2087 Posts |
Quote:
So the lack of worry about shutter shake is compensated by the loss of detail you're getting through diffraction, with such small apertures. Keep in mind, though, that none of the differences we're talking about here will ever be visible in a standard forum-size image post when you've downsized from a dSLR-size image. All of these details only address the very last 5% of image quality, visible only at 100% size. I really don't understand what you mean by this. I believe I understand diffraction ( interference lines at least) I am not taking photos for on line purposes but for print publication. One of the other reasons I use Hi F values is the DOF advantage. I am predominantly photographing Thaler sized coins( 39.5 - 41 mm) and I what to have as much of the "3D" detail that I can in the photo. |
|
Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Quote:
I really don't understand what you mean by this. I believe I understand diffraction ( interference lines at least) I am not taking photos for on line purposes but for print publication. One of the other reasons I use Hi F values is the DOF advantage. I am predominantly photographing Thaler sized coins( 39.5 - 41 mm) and I what to have as much of the "3D" detail that I can in the photo. You've got the idea, and the same principle applies to production for print as it does to production for online usage - if you're doing a crown-sized coin at 1:1 on the sensor of a decent dSLR, the downsizing required for either print- or posting-size images will subjectively recover any sharpness lost during the imaging process be it from shutter shake or diffraction. So in that sense, none of what we're talking about is relevant to those goals. We're picking nits here. Then again, neither is going to extreme apertures/exposures to avoid shutter shake - it'll come back when you downsize anyway. I've never had to stop down more than, say, f/11 to get the necessary depth of field for a coin and with most lenses I just set it at f/8 and forget it. |
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
9792 Posts |
I received the lens today, it looks great! no oil on the blades, no fungus or dust speck inside. Now just need to get that adapter ring to hook it up! I'll be posting some shots very soon.
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector. See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440 |
|
Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Use the 7D; IIRC the 20D isn't compatible with Zoom Browser and remote shooting as it lacks Live View (I may be wrong). There's nothing on Earth like focusing a shot on a 24" monitor at 1:1 via the sensor, live on screen. Who needs autofocus?  |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
627 Posts |
Quote:
I received the lens today, it looks great! no oil on the blades, no fungus or dust speck inside. Now just need to get that adapter ring to hook it up! I'll be posting some shots very soon. Should be there tomorrow I would think. I shipped it on Friday afternoon. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
9792 Posts |
Quote:
Should be there tomorrow I would think. I shipped it on Friday afternoon. Went by the PO Box on the way home it was there! Thanks so much, now I should be able to hook it all up and do some test shooting tomorrow! That was a nice surprise, I had the lens in hand and a post card from the people sending it saying it would be held at a UPS facility about 30 miles from me until I picked it up. I changed addresses before it sent and had it go to my office. They hadn't changed the original order in the UPS system, hence the notice. Yay all the parts came together tonight. Will post photo test shots ASAP Thanks again for the great deal and speed in getting the adapter to me BRG5658 - much appreciated, you rock!  "Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector. See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440 |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
I'm anxious to see your first shots. I expect greatness...
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
Quote:
So in that sense, none of what we're talking about is relevant to those goals. We're picking nits here. Then again, neither is going to extreme apertures/exposures to avoid shutter shake - it'll come back when you downsize anyway. I've never had to stop down more than, say, f/11 to get the necessary depth of field for a coin and with most lenses I just set it at f/8 and forget it. Now, don't go too far with absolution for small apertures causing issues even with web downsizing. The DLA is calculated based on the Rayleigh limit, ie the first null of the Airy Disk falls on the peak of the next, assuming that the AD's are at the pixel pitch. So, if you adjust aperture down by two stops, your AD pitch is now two pixels. This then allows you to down-size by 2x without losing resolution due to diffraction. So for the 7D (as with the T2i) with DLA~f7 you can stop down to f14. If you downsize 4x, you can stop down to f28. But at that point you have essentially turned your 18MP sensor into a 1.3MP sensor... Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
|
Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
*sigh* You are such an engineer.  |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
9792 Posts |
Quote:
You are such an engineer.  Just like my roommate and great friend, (he designs microchips) for secure wireless projects and IMO is a certifiable genius (though he won't agree with that - says "I'm just a country boy that liked to play with E-lectricty and radios!" "Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector. See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440 |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
9792 Posts |
I've got the lens hooked up, and the coins out of the safe deposit bank late tonight, too tired to shoot any, will have to wait, I pulled out my "Do not sell box also" SO I might have some interesting things to try, found an old counterfeit gold $5.00 coin, a 15th century shipwreck coin my Dad got me when I first showed an interest in collecting coins. My Grandfathers last silver dollar, and - the coin that started me down the path of coin collecting a counter stamped 1972 Lincoln Cent. Plus I need to catalog about 50 new additions to the 2¢ collection and go through some Large cents I've been sitting on for a while now, plan to be busy all day doing this. Hopefully I will have some decent shots to show. Next on the list for the camera rig will be some sort of microscope stand to hold everything like rmpsrpms and SsuperDdave use. Getting out the tripod is a pain, and not at all comfortable to use, I need something a bit more stable and permanent (and small enough to be tucked away when not using it). "Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector. See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440 |
| |
Replies: 44 / Views: 5,065 |
First Page
Posted 07/14/2013 06:37 am
