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 Replies: 50 / Views: 5,177 |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
Quote:
I've seen enough 'bad' proofs or beautiful uncirculated coins to know that it's very tough to tell the difference. I could see that with the pre 1968 proofs and definitely some of the 19th century proofs/uncs but I've never seen post 1970 proofs that could be mistaken for uncs or vice versa. |
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Valued Member
 United States
477 Posts |
I picked up some more at the coin show yesterday, I got a 72 blue Ike, a 71 brown with no box and a PCGS 71 PF69 DCAM. The difference in the blue Ike and the brown is very apparent, a little less so on the brown compared to the DCAM but my untrained eye can detect a slight difference in the field, very slight, but that could be the holder. I'm even less crazy about the brown Ike's enormous holder, takes up a lot of space for one coin. But I would never remove them unless I was sending them off to a TPG. I also won a 72 off ebay last week in a 2x2 holder. It appears to be even better than the sealed brown Ikes I have but it's not easy for me to grade one through the thick plastic holder compared to the thin plastic window of the 2x2. Would any untouched brown Ike grade out at PF69DCAM? If not what would be the difference? I've never heard of them making a special run of DCAMs so is there that much difference even in proofs? Rick Edited by shootnstarz
08/11/2013 09:56 am
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
yes on the brown Ikes there can be a LOT of difference. Especially on the early years. Cameos did not become the norm until 73 and even then the cameo contrast between the devices and the field was usually not great. DCAM's are the exception not the rule. Your typical brown ike would probably grade out as a PF-67 (in the early days of slabbing as a PF-65) and not EVEN as a CAM.
Your PCGS PF-69 IS a brown Ike, that was the only way they made proof Ikes in 71.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1053 Posts |
Interesting stuff.. I would keep the token as well.
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Valued Member
United States
105 Posts |
Lots of good info in here. Thanks to all. Thought I would add this old ANACS Photo Cert of a 1974-S Blue Ike and show you what ANACS did back around 1989 to certify them. They cut down the original packaging and used a zip lock bag.   Edited by RJP
08/13/2013 12:44 pm
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Valued Member
United States
105 Posts |
I do have two 1973-S with the Photo Cert and they are the same style.
Edited by RJP
08/13/2013 12:55 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3755 Posts |
As an FYI, ANACS grades the Brown Boxes in the holders. Just as they do the GSA Morgans...  Not sure if they still do that for the Blue. I have a hard time removing them from the OGP unless they are going right into albums. Its part of my overall collector genome. I can't remove figures from packaging. Opening certain packaged comic books gives me hives. And forget about packs of trading cards. LOL |
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Valued Member
United States
477 Posts |
Yea, I'm with you on that. I decided not to remove them. My brown Ikes have no boxes and the holders are fairly scratched up. Probably would be best to put them in new slabs if I do anything. But I'm open to all advice on anything coin related. Well I did get my first non-silver Ike off ebay that was listed as silver, in at least two places. I contacted the seller but haven't received a reply. This 74s proof did look suspicious but the guy clearly stated it was 40% silver. I offered to give him $5 for the coin or return it for a refund. $5 is a lot more than a clad is worth but the hassle of not mailing it back is worth the extra dough. Rick Edited by shootnstarz
08/14/2013 09:45 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3755 Posts |
If they lack the boxes and the cases are that hammered then I would say slab them yourself...  The ones here are those that I purchased already removed or were in packaging that was so ratty that it made no sense to keep it. |
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Moderator
 United States
189142 Posts |
Quote:
The ones here are those that I purchased already removed or were in packaging that was so ratty that it made no sense to keep it. Oh, so beautiful! Especially the last two rows, of course.  |
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Valued Member
United States
477 Posts |
Well, I got the refund on the clad Ike, still paid $5 for it. The seller noted he used a third party listing company and they made the mistake, that's a new one on me.
BTW, what's the difference between types 1 and 2?
Rick
Edited by shootnstarz
08/15/2013 11:50 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
For the Bicentennials its the lettering on the reverse. The Type 1 has fat kind of block letters and the type 2 has more "normal" looking letters that are thinner.
Edited by basebal21
08/16/2013 12:02 am
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Moderator
United States
189142 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3755 Posts |
LOL I knew jbuck would like that.
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Moderator
United States
189142 Posts |
Yes, you taunt me with your charming bling-bling.  |
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Replies: 50 / Views: 5,177 |
First Page
Posted 08/11/2013 09:52 am
