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Blue Ikes

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shootnstarz's Avatar
United States
477 Posts
 Posted 08/07/2013  3:45 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add shootnstarz to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I have several blue Ikes still in the plastic wrap with the blue coin next to it.

I don't really like this set up, I can't enjoy the coins as much as if they were in flips or airtites.

How much would it hurt the value of the COA, envelope, blue plastic poker chip combination if I cut the silver coins out and kept them in airtites?

For uncirculated coins these Ikes have a lot of scratches and fingerprints on them, one is especially scratched. But they all are still in their sealed government wrappers.

Rick
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basebal21's Avatar
13014 Posts
 Posted 08/07/2013  4:00 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I wouldnt be too worried about it, any loss is going to be minimal. A lot of people cut these out for albums or to have them graded. Id rather cut the coin out and enjoy it more if thats what you want than worry if I just took a bit off the price. Theres not really a noticeable price different sealed or cut out on ebay, you can always save the token and the coa anyway if someone wanted that if you decided to sell it.
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jbuck's Avatar
United States
187914 Posts
 Posted 08/07/2013  4:06 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I cut mine out and put them in my Dansco album, but I have no concern for the value.

The value will vary, depending if the person wants just the coin or wants the whole package.

If you ever plan to sell them, leaving them intact will give you the largest pool of potential buyers, but might not necessarily affect the final price.
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GR58's Avatar
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11951 Posts
 Posted 08/07/2013  4:42 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add GR58 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I cut mine out of the blue packs .. and break them out of the brown boxes.
Then put them in albums or coin tubes.

I buy quite a few of them, and pay the same if they are in the OGP or
if the are loose.

For me OGP takes up to much room.
Valued Member
United States
95 Posts
 Posted 08/07/2013  5:27 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DavidFNYC to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
For these cutting them out to put in an album won't affect the price. But if I didn't like the quality of one or two, with scratches or fingerprints I'd list those on ebay intact and buy new ones that were in better shape. But that's just me.
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Mach1's Avatar
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301 Posts
 Posted 08/08/2013  11:00 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Mach1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I cut mine out and put them in 2x2's. I took the blue tokens in 2x2's as well.
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shootnstarz's Avatar
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477 Posts
 Posted 08/09/2013  10:26 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add shootnstarz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Bought 4 more last night, I like'um. Wish they'd made them in 90% instead. That would be a hunk of silver.

Rick
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Conder101's Avatar
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17884 Posts
 Posted 08/09/2013  12:16 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Conder101 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Check the 73's and 74's carefully to make sure they are silver. So far two coppernickel clad 73 S 's have been found. One still in the government holder and believe it or not the other was found in a roll of coins from the bank.
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BamaBlue's Avatar
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624 Posts
 Posted 08/09/2013  1:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BamaBlue to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I like to buy Blue and Brown Ikes in the package, unless I'm buying from someone I know/trust. You have to be careful buying the loose Ike's on ebay. I've recently bought several "silver" Ikes that turn-out to be CuNi. It gets confusing, because all proofs are not 40% silver; the '73S, '74S and '76S Type I comes in CuNi and 40% Silver.
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shootnstarz's Avatar
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477 Posts
 Posted 08/09/2013  2:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add shootnstarz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yea, I passed over some that weren't clear they were 40% in the ads. I make sure they state it's 40% or I don't bother on the later ones.

I'm confused Condor, the book says they made over 2.5 million CuNi 73s & 74s Ikes. What do you mean by "only two have been found"?

Rick
Edited by shootnstarz
08/09/2013 2:18 pm
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Whole lotta rosie`s's Avatar
United States
39 Posts
 Posted 08/09/2013  3:20 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Whole lotta rosie`s to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I break out the blue packs but I love the brown boxes and how they turn blue when you leave them in the OGP.
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basebal21's Avatar
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 Posted 08/09/2013  3:58 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I'm confused Condor, the book says they made over 2.5 million CuNi 73s & 74s Ikes. What do you mean by "only two have been found"?


Those were for the Proof ones. Condor was referring to a clad S mint uncirculated version which are supposed to all be silver. Some how at least two clad plancets ended up getting stuck that werent proofs and got out at San Francisco. If you find one of those its a big money coin just like a Silver P or D mint coin would be.
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shootnstarz's Avatar
United States
477 Posts
 Posted 08/09/2013  6:07 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add shootnstarz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks for the clarification. So they use different dies to strike proofs as well as polished plancets?

Rick
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welder's Avatar
United States
1037 Posts
 Posted 08/09/2013  8:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add welder to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
My 2 cents:

I have a few Ike's to replace in my ancient Dansco album to spruce it up a bit.

I recently bought a 1971S blue Ike off ebay and was a bit disappointed. The listing said uncirculated and unopened, which it was. However the cellophane had been breached where the coin is to be sealed. The seller is located in Louisiana and with the high humidity there, it left the Ike slightly tarnished in a odd shade of aqua. The listing never mentioned the tarnish nor did it say the Ike was in BU condition.

To prevent further damage, I put it in an airtite capsule while keeping the OGP in a safe place. The one it was to replace in the album is far superior this ebay dreck.

I also bought 2 Ike's from Provident Metals. One is a 1971 Blue Ike and the other is the Company's choice of a 40% silver BU or Proof. It will be interesting to see if I get a jewel or junk, but for $10 I figure I still doing OK. These should arrive by next Tuesday.
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Conder101's Avatar
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 Posted 08/10/2013  08:39 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Conder101 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
'm confused Condor, the book says they made over 2.5 million CuNi 73s & 74s Ikes. What do you mean by "only two have been found"?

Baseball got it, we are discussing the "blue Ikes", the 40% silver Unc coins. There are plenty of CuNi clad proof 73 S and 74 S, but only two business strike quality 73 S CuNi clad Ikes. One was found still in the blue envelope and the other in a roll from the bank. They were probably struck on rejected CuNi clad Proof planchets that accidently got mixed in with the 40% silver planchets.
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BamaBlue's Avatar
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624 Posts
 Posted 08/10/2013  6:48 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BamaBlue to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I got a related question, but didn't want to break-out another thread. The Blue Ike is an Uncirculated (40% Silver) Dollar and the Brown Ike is a Proof (40% Silver) Dollar. Forgetting about the obvious difference between a Silver Ike and a CuNi Ike, what difference is there between a Blue Ike and a Brown Ike once broken out of their OGP?

I completely understand the proof coin manufacturing process and recognize the depth of strike difference between the Proof and Uncirculated coins, but I've seen enough 'bad' proofs or beautiful uncirculated coins to know that it's very tough to tell the difference.
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