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Replies: 137 / Views: 18,642 |
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Yeah, ISO100 will only drop your exposure to 1/100 or 1/125, which is well within the capabilities of the camera. My habit (in addition to setting the aperture and breaking off the knob) is to always minimize ISO and vary only exposure. I'll exceed ISO100 only when I absolutely have to, which usually means dull copper or silver. The smallest quantity of individual settings you have to manipulate is always the best.
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Pillar of the Community
 Canada
4944 Posts |
Quote: Was the latest shot using the 75EL? It looks slightly OOF.
Why ISO 400? You'll get the best shadow detail, and thus dynamic range, using ISO100.
Yeah, those last shots were done with the El-Nikkor. I used 400 ISO, because 200 seemed too dark, I didn't try 100 ISO. Here is what I got with 200 ISO (Only cropped images, no other editing).  Quote: I was mostly interested in the comparison shots, trying to figure out the differences between them. Here are the shots, without any re-sizing. These were the size they were when I cropped them from the original image. El-Nikkor: 1060 x 1059 Canon 18-55mm: 1458 x 1460  Resized Shots Both images downsized to 1000 x 1000 
Edited by Canadian-Banknotes 01/26/2014 9:34 pm
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: Yeah, those last shots were done with the El-Nikkor. I used 400 ISO, because 200 seemed too dark, I didn't try 100 ISO.
That's because you're not manipulating exposure, the only variable you need, to get the brightness levels you want.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
It's never a good idea to SLIGHTLY downsize an image. Downsizing the original 1060 image to 1000 can really mess up the sharpness. Actually, even worse is downsizing a slightly off-square image to result in a square one. Bad news. For the 18-55, you also have a non-square image, but the downsize ratio is bigger, so the algorithm has more to work with.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Pillar of the Community
 Canada
4944 Posts |
Quote: That's because you're not manipulating exposure, the only variable you need, to get the brightness levels you want. OK thanks, I will keep that in mind. Quote: Actually, even worse is downsizing a slightly off-square image to result in a square one. Is there a way to always get square images when cropping?
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Quote: Yeah, those last shots were done with the El-Nikkor. I used 400 ISO, because 200 seemed too dark, I didn't try 100 ISO. If you use Av mode there should be no difference. The shutter speed will just be scaled to compensate.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Quote: Is there a way to always get square images when cropping? How are you doing the cropping? I use Nikon ViewNX2, which allows me to pick the crop size. Not conveniently, but it does allow it. I love my old Paintshop Pro, as it lets you type in the crop size. Every tool has its good features, and bad. You probably just need to work with the tool you have to figure out how to set the crop size to where you want it.
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Pillar of the Community
 Canada
4944 Posts |
I use GIMP, and just click and drag a selection box around the coin, then crop.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Does it not give you a readout of the size of the selection box? Can you adjust the selection after you stop, or is it all or nothing?
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
OK, you inspired me to check what quality cropping tool DPP has, and it is superb. It allows direct entry of size, selection drag, and fixed aspect ratio. Even does nice circle crops. Looks like I'll be doing my cropping in DPP.
Edited to add...you can even adjust opacity of the areas outside the crop. Draw a circle around your coin, adjust opacity to max, and the area outside is black. Cool.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
Edited by rmpsrpms 01/26/2014 10:17 pm
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Pillar of the Community
 Canada
4944 Posts |
Quote: Does it not give you a readout of the size of the selection box? Can you adjust the selection after you stop, or is it all or nothing?
I never noticed it before, but yes it does. In the lower left hand corner. You can also adjust the selection box after you make it.
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: Draw a circle around your coin, adjust opacity to max, and the area outside is black. Cool. Oooooh.
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Pillar of the Community
 Canada
4944 Posts |
I Got the two sets Extension Rings today, here's a Reverse image, as well as a 100% crop. I took Ray's suggestion and used AV mode, instead of Manual and I found it much easier. These were shot at 200 ISO, using two of the 7mm rings (I am still testing different rings for this coin, so this may not be the best set-up). The full reverse image has not been downsized at all (click to see full size) but it was cropped to be perfectly square. 2305 x 2305.  
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Pillar of the Community
 Canada
4944 Posts |
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
That obverse is ridiculously good. The reverse proves how difficult Morgan reverses are even when you're very good at photography - and it's time for you to believe yourself very good at photography. So it's time to concentrate on tweaking your work with reverses on Morgans. The lighting requirement is subtly different.
Although I understand fully why you're posting your images so large here (it's appropriate), make sure you downsize them to ~800px and reduced Quality before throwing them into the other fora for opinions. They're so large here I literally never click your threads in this forum on my smartphone. Without 4G I don't have the time to wait for the images to load. Saved from the Gimp at 80% Quality, an 800px coin loses no apparent quality while being around 200kb in size, and anyone on a smartphone or wifi tablet will thank you for it.
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Replies: 137 / Views: 18,642 |