Steps In Spotting A Fake

5) Develop your sense of what a "good" coin in that series looks like, and apply your own knowledge. The really accurate counterfeits get all the press, but they're by far the rarest. The overwhelming majority of fakes have details that spring out to the knowledgeable collector.

Its funny.. I have never had much luck comparing ring tones. I have not got a knwon fake to compare against... but they all sound the same so far..

Need more practice.
OK - so is the ring tone the most foolproof?

A comparative ring tone test need NEVER damage the rim of a coin.

Just balance the suspect coin on the tip of a finger and VERY lightly tap the rim with another coin. It HAS to be light, otherwise you will knock the suspect coin off the tip of your finger.
Do this over a soft surface, such as a folded towel, in case the suspect coin does accidentally fall off your finger.

Do the same test with a known equivalent genuine coin.
Compare for differences in ring tone.

For proof coins, use gloves.

A ring tone test I guess forms part of what you need to know in the detection of fake coins.

A comparative ring tone test is only one of MANY tests used in the detection of fake coins.
One very big attractions of it, is that no equipment is needed, it costs nothing, and can be done by even the most novice of coin collectors.
Therefore, it should be done as one of the first tests in a preliminary investigation.

I am well aware that good quality fake coins are done with good quality metal. I am aware that excellent fake American gold coins are made in .900 gold. As such, a comparative ring tone test would be useless.

It is just as useless in the detection of fake ancient coins, which are my first numismatic love.

I agree that the detection of the most deceiving of fakes in good metal is best done by a highly experienced numismatist, who is a recognized expert in their particular field. A whole range of sophisticated tests can be brought to bear. Most of these have their limitations in some form or other, in relation to coin testing.

Fortunately, I have good access to such people, who in turn have access to some very sophisticated equipment including neutron activation analysis for the detection of trace metals in ancient coin alloys. UNfortunately, this test ain't cheap to do.

Ring test is most useful for bullion and low grade coins. It's not something you do to an MS64 Morgan, but definitely an easy evaluation for dodgy ebay buys. A less-damaging way to do the test is to spin the coin on edge on a flat hard surface. As the coin quits spinning and settles down on the surface the ring is noticeable. It's worth getting a few cheap counterfeits to hear the difference.

I believe that ring is related to sonic velocity in the metal. Silver is high, lead and most common counterfeiting alloys are low. Here's a link to a sonic device used in the metals industry which can put a number on it:

http://about.ag/UltrasonicThicknessGauge.htm

Be careful with old coppers. Electrotypes, often very old and themselves Collectable, will pass for genuine IF you wish to believe its Real. .... But often weight will be significantly higher. Usually these won't ring, and will always show a seam. That seam is the joining of the two shells, and well made ones hide the seam very close to one sides edge, rather than down the center of the rim ala cast in a mold. The nice thing is is that their value for what they are has given them a wide collector and dealer base. You'll usually see raised bumps, little added things here and there. Being pure copper the old ones take on that "perfect" look collectors lust after. Buy them, as electros, DON'T talk yourself into ignoring the traits I mention because you SURE want that cheap chain cent Soooo Much