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1916 Buffalo Nickel DDO?

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Amysattic519's Avatar
United States
65 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2014  02:50 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add Amysattic519 to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Would love any thoughts or opinions on this coin. Relatively new to collecting error coins. Bought it a few weeks ago for $1 at a local train show that I took my son to. The big one?

1916-Buffalo-Nickel-DDO?

1916-Buffalo-Nickel-DDO?

1916-Buffalo-Nickel-DDO?

1916-Buffalo-Nickel-DDO?

1916-Buffalo-Nickel-DDO?




1916-Buffalo-Nickel-DDO?
Edited by Amysattic519
03/13/2014 04:25 am
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Fuzzy317's Avatar
United States
14463 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2014  02:59 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Fuzzy317 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The coin is a 1916 Buffalo nickel, no mint mark below the Buffalo means it was made in Philadelphia.

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Amysattic519's Avatar
United States
65 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2014  03:10 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Amysattic519 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Whoops. Uploaded the wrong reverse. New to this forum and forums all together so I'm going to try and figure out how to remove that image and post the ACTUAL reverse of the 1916. But yes, it was minted in San Francisco.
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Fuzzy317's Avatar
United States
14463 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2014  03:19 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Fuzzy317 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Can you get a close-up of the area you feel is DDO?
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vermontensium's Avatar
United States
16679 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2014  03:53 am  Show Profile   Check vermontensium's eBay Listings Check vermontensium's eCrater Listings Bookmark this reply Add vermontensium to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
To my knowledge, no DDO of an S mint known.

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swcoin.ecrater.com
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Amysattic519's Avatar
United States
65 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2014  04:24 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Amysattic519 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm so sorry. I'm getting all mixed up. I'm out of town right now and don't have the coin with me. It's currently listed on ebay with four others and was pointed out to me by a buyer (very nice buyer). He referred to it as a 1916 "s" but was probably a typo. I just called my husband and to go take a look at it for me and it was minted in Philidelphia. No s! I'm going to try and delete this post and redo it if that's possible. If not I will just delete the pic of the reverse and upload the first pic I had in the beginning. Thanks for your comments though and I'm sorry for the confusion. New to all of this.
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Amysattic519's Avatar
United States
65 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2014  04:27 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Amysattic519 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
OK. Finally got it right! :)
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TypeCoin971793's Avatar
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 Posted 03/13/2014  09:27 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add TypeCoin971793 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I don't think it is. Here is a picture of what one should look like:


1916-Buffalo-Nickel-DDO?
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Amysattic519's Avatar
United States
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 Posted 03/13/2014  4:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Amysattic519 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Ok. But, what about this one? It sold on HA for $4,600. I know the feathers are clearly doubled in this one but are there different varieties to the 1916 DDO?

1916-Buffalo-Nickel-DDO?
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2014  9:28 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The 1916/16 is a single-die variety, and the example you present from Heritage very clearly still shows the enormous doubling of the 6. That's where one's eye should be focused when attributing this variety. If the 6 is still visible with one of these, there'll be no question whatsoever whether you have one or not.

Welcome to Coin Community, Amysattic519. What you're running into here is the biggest challenge for the enthusiastic collector - the thrill of the chase and the inherent desire to see the Big One when it may not exist. We all live with that. Occupational hazard.
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Amysattic519's Avatar
United States
65 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2014  10:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Amysattic519 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Ugh! How do you guys do this? I have been doing it for a year in a half now and am still so confused on how to know FOR SURE that I have a true error coin. Especially, the doubled dies! Can never tell if it the lines or "doubling I think I see is a shadow/reflection effect (due to poor lighting maybe) or if it is a true error. Admiration to all of you!! I guess experience, trial and error, as well as patience and persistence is key! Thank you all for your insight! Any suggestions on lighting techniques and also on the best magnifying glass/device to use. I use a 10x jewelers.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2014  10:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Frankly, the key to successful attribution has as much to do with keeping your center as it does any precision in observation.

Seriously, though, it's about precision. When comparing what's in your hand to a known and well-imaged error coin, expect no deviation from what you see in the example. There may be additions and subtractions - die wear and circulation wear may obscure features, so you won't see every hallmark of a given error. But the characteristic features won't change, and must match exactly.

The other aspect is experience, pure and simple. Strike/machine doubling is common and easily mistaken for true die doubling, and only experience - seeing a whole_bunch_of_examples - grants you the expertise to identify it easily. That's why we usually encourage collectors to specialize before they branch out. Find an issue of interest, and learn it first. Much of the technique crosses between every issue, but better to learn those broader techniques while studying one issue and then discover how they carry into other issues, rather than trying to learn all the subtle differences at once. Certain generalities of varieties are congruent between Lincoln Cents and Morgan dollars, but I'm not going to use a Morgan to teach you about a Cent.

Your loupe is quite sufficient, as long as your eyes are up to the task. I'm saying this as an annoyed fifty-something who's discovering that my eyes aren't in their Twenties any more. Your best bet for lighting when looking at things in person is some sort of fairly bright gooseneck lamp which will allow you to squiggle the light around to differing angles, giving you alternate perspectives on your coin.

We have a thriving photography forum here, in my humble opinion the best place on the Internet to learn coin photography. So if you're interested in refining your imaging technique, just post a thread there. We like "help me be a better photographer" threads. List your equipment, maybe show a sample image or two, and we'll work with you.
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daveodd's Avatar
United States
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 Posted 04/02/2014  4:54 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add daveodd to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
nope.
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