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Fair Market Value ? 1979-S PR-70 Deep Cameo Type 1

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OcalaFlorida's Avatar
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 Posted 04/22/2014  10:05 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add OcalaFlorida to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
1979-S PR70 Deep Cameo Type 1

I went to a auction and got this proof and 2 others (1996-W MS66 PCI, 2005-S PR70 PGS Full Strike Silver Gem) for $5 each no one else bidding on them?

I don't buy slabbed or proofs but it just seemed very low for pr70 and a good west point mint..

On ebay I see them going for alot more then I paid for it what is a fair market value for a 1979-S PR70 Deep Cameo Type 1. I want to trade this to a LCS that I know has a regular customer that buys MS66+ Roos..


I am go to trade them and obliviously I want to get more $15 I paid for all 3. What is a fair trade value to a LCS for it or all 3?

Fair-Market-Value-?-1979-S-PR-70-Deep-Cameo-Type-1

Fair-Market-Value-?-1979-S-PR-70-Deep-Cameo-Type-1

Fair-Market-Value-?-1979-S-PR-70-Deep-Cameo-Type-1
Edited by OcalaFlorida
04/22/2014 10:16 pm
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 Posted 04/22/2014  10:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Hate to be the bearer of bad news but 15 is more than a fair price for them. If you can get that or any more take it.

The problem is they're PCI, that means they're basically a raw coin with the slightest of premiums. Only PCGS and NGC modern 70s matter in terms of premiums which are the prices you were comparing it to. ICG ANACS and PCI have little to no premium and basically sell for the same as or slightly over a raw coin for modern 70s.
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 Posted 04/22/2014  11:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add OcalaFlorida to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
$15 total or $5 each, very interesting I am learning a lot here? yet another reason to not buy proof or slabbed coins..

So as far as slabs go only PCGS and NGC will bring a premium as a rule? So odds are a collector that is looking for a 1996-W MS66 wont want the pci? or will they just crack it open and send to pcgs or are the pci standards sub-par and the grade will not be similar? Is there a general rule for pricing 3rd party identical coins for example same exact coin and grade in top 6 3rd party grading.

My minimum value guess in my head was

1996-W Roosevelt dime I thought be worth $10 to 15
2005-S silver gem proof Roosevelt I thought $10
1979-S type 1 nickel deep cameo I thought be worth $10
Edited by OcalaFlorida
04/22/2014 11:06 pm
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 Posted 04/22/2014  11:28 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
So as far as slabs go only PCGS and NGC will bring a premium as a rule?


For proof or ms 70s yes. Only HSN can successfully get significant premiums out of ANACS 70s. Moderns are dominated by PCGS and NGC when it comes to premiums to the point that its not even close with anyone else. For proofs or the 70 grades theyre the only ones that matter.

The premium ladder goes PCGS NGC ANACS IGC in that order with PCGS and NGC being the two big boys and the gap widening between them and everyone else. IGC is really getting to the point of a minimal premium for anything and ANACS is following down that path except for Morgan VAMs.

Im trying to figure out how to explain this without it getting absurdly confusing and overwhelm you. It really is rather complicated to give a full break down with the different generations of holders and various other 3rd party graders that were okay during certain periods. Then theres different market valuations which differ from modern to classic coins.

I think the simplest way to put it would be dont pay PCGS prices unless its in a PCGS slab. Dont pay NGC prices unless its in an NGC or PCGS slab.


Quote:
Is there a general rule for pricing 3rd party identical coins for example same exact coin and grade in top 6 3rd party grading.


I think your asking about top pop coins aka the ones that grade in the finest known ranges?

If you are the rule about dont pay PCGS/NGC money unless its in their slab especially applies here. The more of a grade rarity it is the less of a chance that it would get that grade at PCGS or NGC, a lot of the times its probably been tried as a cross over and failed given the huge premium disparities at that level.
Edited by basebal21
04/22/2014 11:29 pm
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 Posted 04/22/2014  11:44 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add OcalaFlorida to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Wow thanks basebal21, I totally understand what your saying the concept in general; one would hope equally quality grade among all 3rd party graders. But it makes sense they don't just like restaurants that cook the same food with same ingredients the quality of the chefs of top restaurants would vary..
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 Posted 04/22/2014  11:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add smokeriderdon to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Nevermind.
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 Posted 04/22/2014  11:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
There are good coins in other holders, moderns just isn't the place to be looking for them. That company PCI is actually okay for classics if you can a good eye and can grade it yourself but their grading was inconsistent so just going by the holder for their grades would lead to some bad purchases
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Collector-Corner's Avatar
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 Posted 04/23/2014  01:25 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Collector-Corner to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yeah, I tust IGC, NGC,PCGS and ANACS the most. The others tend to over grade their stuff. One is even a gift shop with a fancy label that used to be orange, and graded their coins at least 3-4 higher than they had a chance to be at a sane grading company.

For pricings, you can probably look at ngccoin.com and pcgs.com under there pricing or hit Numismedia.com for generic prices. I think Numismedia.com might be a bit high, but eh, room to haggle. The DEALER may pull out a copy of the Coin Dealer Newsletter (available to all online for a fee) and look them up in there. Sometimes I think that CDN is quite low in pricing, especially BU rolls of coins.

If you get to see good pics of the Obverse and Reverse, no reason not to bid/buy a coin if it looks really clean.
Most bidders are probably skeptical about the certifier, and decided to pass.
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John1's Avatar
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 Posted 04/23/2014  05:45 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add John1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The only way not to over pay for a slabbed coin or a raw coin for that matter is to learn coin grading and keep up on the current values on coins.My third party companies in order are PCGS,NGC and ANACS.
John1
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machine20's Avatar
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 Posted 04/23/2014  09:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add machine20 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Great buy on the 96-W dime for $5
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rupester's Avatar
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 Posted 04/25/2014  2:21 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rupester to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Id say the value is there or close... Forget the slab stuff... The 96w is your best money piece grab a current Red Book or grey sheet find the coin and grade and thats the worth.. Rule of thumb..moderns in slabs still only worth what the Red Book greysheet says... Look at a 1996 mint set with the W dime and without there is your value..
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atchisonbj's Avatar
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 Posted 04/25/2014  5:09 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add atchisonbj to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
OcalaFlorida: These three coins are modern coins that are best bought as raw. Basebal21 has done a great job of explaining that on slabs the order of preference in the market is #1 PCGS #2 NGC and #3 ANACS. Any other slab on a modern coin should be bought as a raw coin. An ANACS I would buy as raw coin. Even PCGS and NGC coins on these three dates are just plastic. Most collectors are simply going to want a raw coin that they will put in an album. The 1996-W dime is basically what makes a 1996 Mint Set worth more than the surrounding years of Mint Sets. That's something to buy for about $7 to $10.00 as just the 1996-W by itself.
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