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Replies: 19 / Views: 2,927 |
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Valued Member
United States
301 Posts |
So what is everyones opinion on when certifying a coin? Obviously the monetary factor, but a little morein depth. A certain value? Possible centimental value? I want as many opinions as we can get!!
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Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
1351 Posts |
Being in the UK I would never want some muppet to tell me what I have.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
My standard is that the TOTAL cost to get a coin slabbed should not be more than 10% of my perceived value of the coin. When you include the cost of S&H BOTH WAYS that means the coin should be worth in the neighborhood of $250 or more.
For coins of sentimental value it doesn't matter how much they catalog for.
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Valued Member
 United States
301 Posts |
Thanks for opinion Kanga. Good calculation. Not quite sure about the muppet comment peter?..?
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
726 Posts |
 Our club went with 15.oo coin value before certifying, a few years ago..We had no shipping charge, just a Certify cost..  15. a bare minium.
Edited by persistnt 05/18/2014 7:25 pm
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Pillar of the Community
968 Posts |
My formula is basically me estimating what I can sell it for out of the slab and what I can sell it for in the slab. If the difference is greater than the cost of slabbing, I send it in. Generally, I submit any shot 65 common date Morgans, rainbow toners, or PCGS Major Varieties. I'll give you an example... I bought a '90-CC Tailbar, raw for $110. Listed it on ebay, best offer I got was $125 after fees. Declined it. Sent it in for grading ($21) then to CAC ($12), creating a cost position of $143. I sold it to a dealer for $165. So by spending the extra money, I raised my profit percentage from 12% to 13.34%. So I basically make judgement calls with all the coins I own and try to figure out what the most effective way to sell it is. The time it takes to roll over a coin doesn't matter much to me, but if I had to take that into account, I would probably do less grading due to time constraints. PS I stopped overpaying for low-grade tailbars, don't worry... My next batch has an average cost basis of about $85 a coin and has 1 XF Details, 2 VF, and a F. Margin will be much higher.
Edited by chasingtailbar 05/18/2014 7:32 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4883 Posts |
It's not always a matter of potential grade, or even a hardnosed economic calculus. Generally virtually anything offered through a major auction house won't be catalogued raw anymore, and certain issues that are notoriously faked now almost have to be certified for resale, whether online or otherwise.
Colligo ergo sum
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2757 Posts |
i slabbed a dozen or so error coins early in my collecting as a way to be 100% sure about the authenticity of the errors. some of the error coins were only worth $10 to begin with. Of course this was a special case, but it was worth the slabbing $ as part of the learning process.
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Pillar of the Community
861 Posts |
My rule of thumb is $300+, unless it's gold bullion.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4337 Posts |
slab anything gold that is not just cull or melt unless it is an obvious super rarity in the gold series slab anything that is considered a rarity in the hobby with regards to Year, MM and Grade, i.e., slab an 1844 VF dime, do not slab a 1944 MS63 dime
These are the rules I govern myself by
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
5417 Posts |
In my opinion, unless your coin is an absolute rarity, you're certifying it to preserve the coin, the surfaces, the luster and the eye-appeal. You can get a fairly good idea of your coin's grade and value through out in-house experts on CCF. Also, unless you're really inclined to, try not to certify a coin that has an original value under $200. I could spell everything out for you but there are just so many of these thread and these questions have been answered so many times, over and over again. Just search through past topics. Good luck.
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Pillar of the Community
968 Posts |
Quote: Also, unless you're really inclined to, try not to certify a coin that has an original value under $200. I disagree with blanket statements like this... Let's say you have an '80-S Morgan, probably a 64, maybe prooflike. In an auction, it'll sell for, raw, $75-$85. Slabbed, $125. Is it worth spending the extra $20 to get it slabbed if it will generate an extra $40-$50 in revenue?
Edited by chasingtailbar 05/19/2014 05:56 am
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
Quote: In an auction, it'll sell for, raw, $75-$85. Slabbed, $125. Is it worth spending the extra $20 to get it slabbed if it will generate an extra $40-$50 in revenue? $20 to get it slabbed? That just covers the grading and invoice fee. With shipping and insurance both ways it will be closer to $30 to $50 to get it slabbed. So you are sinking an extra $30 to $50 to generate and extra $40 to $50. So no I don't think it is worth it.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
Quote:
Posted Today 19 Min ago Show Profile Email Poster Bookmark this reply Add Conder101 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Quote: In an auction, it'll sell for, raw, $75-$85. Slabbed, $125. Is it worth spending the extra $20 to get it slabbed if it will generate an extra $40-$50 in revenue?
$20 to get it slabbed? That just covers the grading and invoice fee. With shipping and insurance both ways it will be closer to $30 to $50 to get it slabbed. So you are sinking an extra $30 to $50 to generate and extra $40 to $50. So no I don't think it is worth it. Agreed. That's why I specified that you HAVE to take into account S&H (which includes Registered mail and insurance).
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
I have no slabs. I would never send a coin to be slabbed. Not even if worth thousands. All my coins go into Albums. Even this one I broke out of a slab. Just have to have coins freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee. 
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Pillar of the Community
968 Posts |
Quote: $20 to get it slabbed? That just covers the grading and invoice fee. With shipping and insurance both ways it will be closer to $30 to $50 to get it slabbed. So you are sinking an extra $30 to $50 to generate and extra $40 to $50. So no I don't think it is worth it. Economy submissions are $20 a coin plus shipping charges... I usually hold until I am sending 15-20 coins. I just used the online submission form to see what 20 1881-S in 65 would cost for grading, declared total value of $3k ($150 ea, 65 money) and it comes out to $441. $22.05 per coin. Factor in $20 shipping (registered, insured) to PCGS, that's $23.30 per coin. If I'm submitting raw 64 and 65's, I lose a little on the 64's, but the real money is in the 65's... so let's say I paid $55 ea (reasonable) I am basically breaking even on the 64's and making $70 ea on the 65's. If I happen to catch a 66, that's another hundred or so in profit. When I have done subs like that in the past, my 65 hit rate has been about 70%, meaning I get 14 65's for every 20 I submit. So that would make my cost basis per coin $78.30. Profits expected would be as follows; 64; -$10 per coin 65; +$72 per coin With my hit rate, that means 1 65 covers my losses on the 64's, and the other 13 are profit at $72 ea, or $936 profit. If you can't grade, of course, I wouldn't bother since you're basically just throwing money away, but if you know what you're doing, buying, slabbing and reselling is easy money. If you're paying $50 to get a coin slabbed, you're getting ripped off, or submitting some expensive material. Try finding somebody else who is willing to let you piggyback your coins on their submission... many are, it saves all parties a few bucks on shipping and handling charges.
Edited by chasingtailbar 05/19/2014 6:31 pm
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Replies: 19 / Views: 2,927 |