Buffalo Nickels

rupester,

Take your time with it, plan on spending five years or more building your set, and wait for high-grade examples of each coin with above average eye appeal. Don't get so obsessed with completing the set that you pay exorbitant prices for the key dates.

I was asking on the forum about old Treat coin folders last week, I had gone into my LCS a few days ago and asked there, they had none but as he was going through his old 2nd hand Whitman's he said well if I had one here I'd just give it to you.

The top one on the stack was a Buffalo nickel book copyright 1940, I asked if I could have that one and he handed it over.

It now has 16 holes filled, one from the "Vinegar and Hydrogen Peroxide" idea (1918)

I was thinking about getting some of the dateless ones from them and doing a soak on them to see what I come up with. They sell dateless for 50 cents, partial at 75 cents and full dates at a buck, for common cull's.

Might be sweet to find out how many I can get for just a few bucks... like coin roll hunting, the thrill of the chase.

Plus I have no problems with low-ball sets

ASLAN TVorlon, Dealer trays at coin shows are a great place to pick up a variety of Buffalo nickel dates cheaply, with some of the later dates being in higher grades, up to full-horn.

@Badger Mint and Classic Coins:

I live in an area that has gun shows, not coin shows, my LCS even deals in guns and ammo.

I have ear problems that makes changing altitude painful, so even if I could afford to go to a coin show I would be in agony the entire time.

The best price I have found for dateless on line with shipping is 34 cents per for a roll of 40, or I could go for bulk and get 200 for 45.70 total paying 22.85 cent for each.




Unless you are a jet-setter that hits dozens of conventions a year or are willing to pay top dollar, or have a good dealer locally. Don't bother it's too much of a hassle.

Well,I do have access to a VERY good group of local coin shops, and since North Idaho and NE washington state are know for silver production,there is lots of coin shops nearby!! I got interested when I was putting my Jefferson books together, as I had to flip by all the Buffalo Nicks in there BU book, often times people bring collections into them they remove the coins grade them put them in flips and resell them.this set looks to be quite expensive as far as per coin cost.. Often times they make deals and always sell the coins for good prices!! I have done several books using them and a few ebay sellers that sell honest deals, I dont know if its right to share favorite ebay sellers but I am sure lots of us buy from the same sellers and perhaps even people on here have sold me coins!! I just truly enjoy this hobby, already started a second half dollar silver only proof collection. I can just enjoy the coins for hours and hours!!

Its on my list of things to do later this year and into next year. There are a couple of coin shows coming up, so I may see what I can find. I really miss having a LCS around here.....

I have sold off a lot of acid restored ones. Can't say much because then I'll be giving away my marketing secrets. I know pretty much any price a restored one will sell for or cost. Since it' summer time I can't sell my 1915 D's anymore for 5 to 10 dollars.

If you need a 1915 D full restored I can give you it for free.


Now my opinions:
If you're doing acid restored, you should do that in a folder.
Never touched and normal ones with readable dates belong inside the Dansco Album.

For the 1913 S Type 2, you can buy that pretty cheap today. One with the date weak in like AG go's for 100 to 160.

I am working on doing a set of full dates and full horns.
It won't be cheap but it's what I want to do.

However, here is my want list:
Dates I need:
1913 TI - D - S
1913 TII - D - S
1914 - D - S
1915 - D - S
1916 - D - S
1917 - S
1918 - P - D - S
1919 - D - S
1920 - D - S
1921 - S
1923 - S
1924 - D - S
1925 - P - D - S
1926 - P - D - S
1927 - P - D - S
1928 - P - D - S
1929 - D - S
1930 - P - S
1934 - P - D
1935 - P - D - S
1936 - D - S
1937 - S

As you see, I nailed out some

Having put together a number of these sets over the years, I'd humbly suggest aiming for strictly fine coins, having full, sharp dates. Try to uniformly match the gray color and avoid settling for less than half a horn. A well matched set like this will easily sell, when the time comes. Personally, I'd focus on the actual date set and ignore the varieties like overdates, missing feathers and legs; this, till perhaps later. I found that by focusing on the mid-grade Buffs, my grading skills for the series much improved. If a Fine set will be too costly, try to follow the same suggestions, being sure that the base of the horn is visible for a solid VG.

Good luck!