The coin market today has the best of the best going for moon money and the rest, well, not so much.
So the value of a 'collection' is sort of a circular question and telling what it's worth will take work on your part, work that is really only going to reward you if the collection is worth something. BUT:
IF the collection is really worth something, it's work spending the effort to accurately categorize and then contacting a couple of the larger buyers to get the best realization.
IF the collection isn't really worth much, then everybody is going to offer low money because it's not worth it to them. Say the collection is 100 coins each retailing for $10. And your collector bought them 20 years ago for $1 each and they don't have old problems, bad cleanings, etc. Paid $100, worth $1000 is great, right...
Not so fast... out of that $1000 retail sales, the coin store, dealer, etc. has to make enough to cover the rent, the cost of the money s/he has tied up (vs. other usages of the $), and even a little profit to put food on the table for the starving children.
If it's good stuff, easy to sell, you might be offered 70% of retail. The next bit of reality is that even if they are all honest $100 coins, some things sell, others sit, and the dealer, recognizing the difference will offer less - time value of money.
If you are willing to invest the time, you can maximize your return. If not, you are essentially paying somebody else to do the work and that means you will receive less. Either way, you are never going to be offered
Red Book prices. Just get past that.
I recommend two pricing resources...
/0/ PCGS Online Photograde -
http://www.pcgs.com/photograde/ - this has photos you can compare to the actual coins in your collection to figure out what they are and what grade they are (a "FINE" coin shows a fair bit of wear and is worth a lot less than a "MINT STATE" coin with no wear, just as it came from the mint).
/1/
http://www.numismedia.com/fmv/fmv.shtml - NumisMedia's FMV is a RETAIL price, about what you would expect to SPEND in a coin store.
/2/ The GreySheet,
https://www.greysheet.com/ (you can buy a single current digital issue for about $7).
The GreySheet shows - for most commonly bought & sold coins - dealer BID and ASK prices. The BID price is about what the dealer will offer to buy it from you and the ASK price is about what the dealer hopes to sell it to another dealer for. And RETAIL is what they want you to pay.
Let's take something at random, oh a 1905
Barber half dollar in FINE. Scrolling through this month's Grey Sheet, that's where the mouse stopped...
It will look more like this:
http://www.pcgs.com/images/photogra...er50-15o.jpgthan this:
http://www.pcgs.com/images/photogra...er50-20o.jpg (see how the laurel leaves in the head are much more worn in the FINE than the VERY FINE?)
GreySheet Bid/Ask: 72/80, FMV 89
(Secret: Click on the 89 and it takes you to a page showing all of the prices for that grade and the history of increase/decrease over the last 30 days -
http://www.numismedia.com/cgi-bin/c...e2=pricesms)So the dealer will probably offer you 65 or 70 and hope to sell it himself for 85 or 90 or sell it on to another dealer who has buyers looking for
Barber halves for 75 or 80. The quick $5 or $10 vs. the slower $15 or $20.
-----Burton
50+ year / Life / Emeritus
ANA member (joined 12/1/1973)
Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA
Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, EveryCountry (online) coin club
Owned by three cats and a wife of 40+ years (joined 1983)
Author: 3rd Edition of the Sample Slabs book,
https://www.sampleslabs.info/