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Ike Dollars

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Author Previous TopicReplies: 13 / Views: 1,416Next Topic  
New Member

United States
6 Posts
 Posted 08/13/2007  5:25 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add Jarrid to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Thanks in part to several members on here, I have decided to start collecting Eisenhower dollars, so obviously now I will have a few questions.

First of all, what are the different "types"? I see type I, type II and I believe I saw a type III?

Secondly, what are the references to the colors? I see them advertised as "brown" Ikes and things like that. Is that referring to toning or something else?

Thanks!

Jarrid
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scoutjim99's Avatar
United States
4589 Posts
 Posted 08/13/2007  6:08 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scoutjim99 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Type 1,2 and 3 refer to different dies being used, PUP (PICK UP POINT) area is the Globe with the islands on the reverse, I do not have my book handy but I believe that is for 1972 Ike's and Of course Type 1 and type 2 Bicentennial Ike's the smaller letter type was made in 1975 while the type with bold letters was actually made in 1976. Brown Ike's are the packaging for Proof 40% Silver Ike's produced in 1971 to 1974 and again 1976 where as the Blue Ike's are the 40% silver Bu examples
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collect4fun's Avatar
United States
1151 Posts
 Posted 08/13/2007  6:08 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add collect4fun to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Jarrid,

Types refer to the die varieties:

Type I - Low relief with flattened world & 3 islands off Florida were used for all clad issues of 1971, UNC silver of 1971 and most of clads of 1972.

Type II - High Relief w/ round world and weak islands were all proofs of 1971, silver issues of 1972 and some scarce Philly coins of 1972.

Type III - Improved high relief used on late 1972 Philly clads.

Also for Bicentennial's :

Variety I - Low relief, bold lettering on reverse.
Variety II - Sharp design, delicate lettering on reverse.

This is all per the " RedBook".

"Colors" refer to the packaging of Proof coins. Some were pacakaged in a plastic holder housed in a "BROWN" box or in a cello with a "BLUE" token.

Hope that helps.
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arthrene's Avatar
United States
1713 Posts
 Posted 08/13/2007  7:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add arthrene to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Where do you guys get Ikes now a days?
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atlashealth's Avatar
United States
1691 Posts
 Posted 08/13/2007  7:08 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add atlashealth to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Casinos....just kidding....actually I have a few uncirculated IKES I could sell you..if interested, send an email.
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Scottishmoney's Avatar
United States
597 Posts
 Posted 08/13/2007  7:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Scottishmoney to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Ikes are a bit hard to find at banks now, I get one or two every couple of months now. Up until my last bonanza three years ago, when I got 4 uncirculated rolls of them from 1977-1978 I could find them with some regularity. Now some dealers are selling them for $1.25-$1.50 in circulated grades.

I think I might have about 500+ of them, I lost count.
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Dewayne76's Avatar
United States
590 Posts
 Posted 08/13/2007  8:20 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dewayne76 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The dealer I bought from sells them for $2 I got a few AU ones at that price. Try to get the silver clad ones first they may rise in value a little faster than the copper/nickel clad. I like the Ikes, good luck with your collection.
New Member
United States
2 Posts
 Posted 08/13/2007  8:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chemdog55 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I have a question regarding proof set in general. Let's say I hae proof sets from 61 - 63 of the penny through half dollar. Would there be an advantage to pulling the MS 63 or better Franklin half dollars out adn having them graded to sell separately? Or is there some intrinsic value to the set even if some of the smaller coins have been dinged through the plastic , or hae not collectable worth other than silver.
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SeatedNut's Avatar
United States
2797 Posts
 Posted 08/13/2007  9:38 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SeatedNut to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Back in 1979 I bought a mint box (six each) of 71-s, 72-s, and 74-s browns (proof silver-clad). I passed on the 73-s because they were about $40 each. I think I paid about $6 each for them. Still have them and look at them on occassion. There are some cameos in there too.
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Spider5689's Avatar
United States
2269 Posts
 Posted 08/13/2007  10:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Spider5689 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The Ikes are a great short series to collect. They're relatively inexpensive and often overlooked. If there os a key to the series, it would have to be the 1973 S 40% silver.

Ikes were the first series I started collecting.
Maybe its time to dust off my Ikes and finish what I started.

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littleboy's Avatar
United States
764 Posts
 Posted 08/13/2007  11:47 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add littleboy to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
i have a bunch of uncirculated ones if you're interested in buying any.
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livingdinasaur's Avatar
United States
1571 Posts
 Posted 08/14/2007  12:02 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add livingdinasaur to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If you are lucky, you might find them in the banks. You have to ask for them. If you are "in" good, with your vault teller, he/she might save them for you. They don't like to handle them. Too big. It doesn't take very many before they get too heavy for the young ladies to carry. As far as the rest of your questions, I believe they were asnwered ver well, in the posts above. Happy hunting!
Dick
Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts
 Posted 08/14/2007  12:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply


Find someone that works in a bank. I've asked at 5 banks in the area and were told there is a list of customers that want the Ike dollars. Each time they come in they contact the next person on the list. One bank person I know admitted relatives come first. I would assume the best thing to do is marry a teller. Friend of mine did that and paid more than any coins are worth from that day on.
Coin shows are full of them. Also, there is dealer that specializes in the Ikd dollars but is rather on the high side. https://www.jmscoins.com I think is the web site. If your in Illinois we have coin shows all over the place and the guy from jmscoins is at them all.
New Member
United States
6 Posts
 Posted 08/15/2007  04:56 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jarrid to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
thanks for all your responses, very helpful!
and for those who have some they want to sell, email me at c-o-m-m-i-d-a-d-d-y-@-h-o-t-m-a-i-l-.-.-c-o-m (remove the -'s).

jarrid
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