Question For Those That Enjoy Grading Coins

Numismatic value has never gone anything but up so I would figure the other way if I were you.

Now, should you "buy wrong", sure, you take a loss and in some cases no matter how much time goes by in your lifetime.

However, again, within your lifetime and well beyond that for most of the treasures we all admire, you're not going to be on the "losing" end of the stick.

As your question and topic, for me, I have one each of an ASE and Canadian Maple Leaf that are of interest to me due to some very colorful toning. Other than that, all of my other ASEs are measured against spot in my books.

I do not think that the grading of a common standard issue bullion coin is important. The only critical aspects to consider are the weight of the metal and it's authenticity.
Slabbing helps with authenticity, to reassure the buyer, if you are selling; there are some REALLY good fakes out there.

I cannot emphase strongly enough that grading is essential in relation to high value coins in MS60 and above, for machine struck coins. I figure this is the main reason why TPG'ers exist.

'As Struck" is the highest grade for ancient coins, but even so there are OTHER factors that affect the grade, and there other collectors that consider the 'other factors' should be added as comments. The 'other factors' are varied and numerous.

"As struck" is not a grading term in the Sheldon grading system. I guess this is one of the reasons why most TPG'ers will not grade other than machine struck coins.

I have about 1,500 ancient and World coins that are the real core to my collection. About 300 of them are over 1,000 years old.
None of them are slabbed.
For this reason, it is critically important for me to know how to grade for myself, and to have proven authenticity, especially of the more valuable items.