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Anyone Else Dislike The Process Of Taking Coin Pictures?

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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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23522 Posts
 Posted 04/14/2015  4:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Well, there's still nothing like axial for capturing toning, which ignores all the usual rules. I still like my jury-rig for Proofs, though:

Anyone-Else-Dislike-The-Process-Of-Taking-Coin-Pictures?

9" Circline fluorescent fixture with a hole cut through the center to stick the camera. 360 degrees (nearly) of uninterrupted light seems to nail them nicely. Just let the bulb warm up first.
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Chute72's Avatar
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1314 Posts
 Posted 04/15/2015  06:38 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Chute72 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
This is one that might benefit from axial lighting. The photo appears flat and lifeless. Problem may be compounded by the slab.

Anyone-Else-Dislike-The-Process-Of-Taking-Coin-Pictures?
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 04/15/2015  08:19 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yeah, that's a good candidate. With an axial setup, though, you're probably going to get a nice glare off the plastic right where you don't want it. This can be fixed with a larger light source (incandescent bulb or R30 type) and glass placement a couple degrees off - it'll push the glare to one side a bit into a place you can crop it.

Wish I could pick Todd Pollock's (blucc) brain on that. The trouble is, he's making his living from shooting coins and sharing his methods is obviously against his better interests.
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xshift's Avatar
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2669 Posts
 Posted 04/24/2015  10:31 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add xshift to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I use a combination of (1) a dual photo frame for the ability to move the glass at will, (2) one jansjo for direct, movable lighting pointing directly to the glass, (3) a larger daylight bulb lamp that has its light bounced to the right direction via one of those tri-fold boards + aluminum foil, and (4) an otherwise blacked-out room. Slight changes to the angle of the jansjo is all that is usually required between coin shots.

Anyone-Else-Dislike-The-Process-Of-Taking-Coin-Pictures?

Anyone-Else-Dislike-The-Process-Of-Taking-Coin-Pictures?

Without axial lighting, the toning on this one is barely noticeable:
Anyone-Else-Dislike-The-Process-Of-Taking-Coin-Pictures?

Always room for improvements, but this at least gives me the ability to show things like the speckled black toning on the Franklin, and proof surfaces like the other two.
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