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 Replies: 55 / Views: 9,405 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
818 Posts |
I picked up a 50 dollar bank strap out of boredom today, and yet again, I'm amazed some of the bills weren't mutilated earlier. Here's an idea of what I am now owner of:
2013s: 2 (Both E-D and crisp)
2009s (>5/10 condition wise): 14
2009s (<5/10 condition): 17 (and out of them, here's what I found on 2 of them)
-One is taped on the entire right corner
-One is in REALLY rough shape and has blue ink in the corner
2006s: 14 (Two aren't in bad shape, one is still crisp, and the rest are worn out, with one of them having writing across the center)
Oldest bills in the bunch were 3 2003As that look like they should've been taken out of circulation 5 years ago.
I'm just writing this to show what I got and was wondering if it's typical for <50% of the bills to be in good shape, as this seems to happen to me frequently.
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Rest in Peace
United States
7075 Posts |
I don't think I search notes enough for my opinion to really count but I would say that you got a bad batch. I don't think I've ever gotten a taped note from the bank.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
818 Posts |
I was thinking the same thing, but the problem is, the branch that has given me good results closed and now I have trouble getting there on weekdays due to their new location being further away. And keep in mind, I'm taking these bank straps for Where's George so it's not like I can return them. I didn't bother marking the 2003As or the 2006 with writing since it's pretty much defacement as it's blocking the SN and signatures.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
814 Posts |
It all depends on the teller, branch management, and the bank branch's need and supply at the time you ask. There is no set rule as to what has to be sent back to the FRB for shredding, and policies (if you want to call them that) vary from branch to branch. As a teller myself, my rule of thumb is if it's soft and flimsy, torn, taped, excessively creased, has holes, or is otherwise defaced, discolored, or washed, then it gets mutilated. Some branch management require that discontinued designs--the "small head" bills, for example, get mutilated; I don't usually do this, I circulate them back out (when I don't buy them for myself, that is, which is almost never).
There are exceptions to this, of course. For example if I have a whole drawer full of 5's and it's busy and I need to get my drawer down to acceptable levels, I may just run a stack of loose 5's through the counter to strap and take to the vault without going through them to pick out the nasty ones. That strap, then, will later get sold to a different teller or go back with the armored service and be recirculated out. That's how it's so easy to get a strap from the bank where half of the bills or more are gross.
Edited by hcmusicguy
11/18/2015 5:27 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
818 Posts |
That makes sense. If I get another strap like this, I'll probably take the nasty bills and deposit them at a different bank since I rarely spend money on things and just let the teller know so they don't get recirculated again.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2233 Posts |
When I got a strap, most of the bills I got were in fairly decent condition (especially the one 1995 note).
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Pillar of the Community
United States
814 Posts |
Also, because of what I mentioned above, we frequently get straps of bills from the armored service where a good number of them would not normally pass muster.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
818 Posts |
I'm gonna pick up another 50 some time this weekend, here are the terms I will use (mostly sorting by condition now)
Good- Bills that are still crisp, have few wrinkles, and have plenty of life left
Average- Bills that may be wrinkled, but have some structure and can last a bit longer
Unsatisfactory- Bills that are worn out but I will still mark since there is a chance they could get re-entered
Rejects- Bills that are so worn out, I won't even mark them since they should've been mutilated long ago and will likely be sent away the next time they reach a bank. In any event I get bills like these, I will probably take them to a different bank to exchange.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
818 Posts |
Well my plans changed and I ended up using all the cash I had on me on 2 dollar bills. Here's what I got:
15 are in average condition, as the teller had about 300 bucks worth on hand and let me replace the worn out ones with newer bills. Most of these are from 1976 or 2003, but strangely, none of the 1995s I have are beat up, as for some reason, most of the 1995 $2 bills are very beat up.
The rest are all in really good condition, with some consecutive serial number ranges present and some uncirculated 1995s, which I don't see very often.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
818 Posts |
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Rest in Peace
United States
7075 Posts |
 Have fun! |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
hcmusicguy - Thanks, good input.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
818 Posts |
Picked up another $50 Georges, and had MUCH better luck than last time condition wise (not counting the uncirculated strap from before)
Bills by condition:
>8/10: 13 (1 2006, 8 2009, 4 2013 including one with a close serial number to the uncirculated ones from before)
Fair to good: (between 5 and 8/10 condition) 14
(13 2009, 1 2003)
Bad condition to average: 15 (3 2003A, 3 2006, 9 2009)
Rejects (bills I won't bother EMSing as they probably should've been mutilated earlier): 5 (all 2006 and have so many wrinkles, you can barely see George's face anymore)
Old: 1995 D-I, 1985 A-A, 1977 B-C (all are keepers to me and the 1977 will replace my existing one)
No wilds, but that's about 40 bills that will get entered to Where's George!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
818 Posts |
Got 66 more ones after cashing my paycheck today. 50 were brand new, sequential SN, I'm happy even though the other half was missing since I have hardly spent the new ones from before     The other 16 came from a used bundle, and I missed several unique serial numbers, which kinda disappointed me. Oldest in the bunch was a 2003A, newest were a few 2013s varying from practically new to 5/10 condition. Here are some SNs to show what I missed: 77733877 (missed radar by 1) 79858889 (missed 4 8s by 1) 61896489 (missed a repeater by 3) If anyone else who searches bills wants to post their results, feel free to do so. It's alright if you 1-up me, since it won't make me as jealous as it would if you found more silver on the half dollar thread.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1812 Posts |
Since learning how to convert the serial number to its assigned Plate Position about 2 years ago, I found myself in the habit of looking (and finding a few) COPE "switched" errors, like a A3 serial number on a A1 note...
A good example is the f/w series 1995 back plate 295 error..
I found all the notes printed on Block H-E, Run #10 have the COPE switched plate error, and to date have purchased around 3 dozen of these notes in CU condition, with most notes being (bookends) consecutive serial numbers...
The 295 error note I am looking at now is serial number H61761541E that should be on a Plate Position E3 note, but was printed on E1...
This can only happen with COPE 32 subject sheets that are cut in half vertically before being serialed, and not possible on the new LEPE serialing as they serial full sheets...
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1812 Posts |
Below is the Math for checking serial number Plate Positions on series 1988A to *2009 on $1.00 Notes. For Star Notes & $50.00 & $100.00 Notes, divide serial number by 3,200,000 instead of 6,400,000 for Run # & Plate Position. *= on series 2009 $1.00 notes, if the serial number plate positiion does not match the assigned COPE plate position, it was printed on LEPE (chart can be found on COPE vs LEPE). Credit goes to USPAPERMONEY. INFO website for one awesome currency information website.  |
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Replies: 55 / Views: 9,405 |
Posted 11/18/2015 4:40 pm
