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Silver Pillar Dollars From China?

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Author Previous TopicReplies: 12 / Views: 2,309Next Topic  
Valued Member
odentheviking's Avatar
United States
425 Posts
 Posted 12/17/2015  11:10 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add odentheviking to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Some background......
About 20 years ago I wanted to buy a few Pillar Dollars to use for living history/education. Found that the real ones are big $$$ I settled for older or well made, fakes, counterfeits, forgeries, and copies. Fell in love with these coins and started to collect.
Last few years because of Numismatic Forgeries from China and higher prices, I fell off. Last few months I decided to start a collection of cheap Numismatic Forgeries from China....... but found out they are not so "CHEAP"!
So I'm seeing clear fakes on ebay,(no damage or sea salvage, about 27 grams and just under 38mm wide..... all of them!), seller from China, less than 3 or 4 feedback, starts at a dollar, etc..... No problem!
But all these auctions are going up over $70- $80 or more!

So whats the deal? Is it because ebay no longer allows fakes/copies even if you admit it, so many think they are really getting a near perfect 1733 Pillar for $80? The dealer must change his Seller I.D. all the time from negative feedbacks?

And most important how can I get a few of these coins and only pay the " Numismatic Forgeries" price? From what I have read here over and over again is a little over what the base metal is worth and production costs.
Thanks to all for your thoughts and opinions..... in advance.
Paul.
Bedrock of the Community
sel_69l's Avatar
Australia
21786 Posts
 Posted 12/17/2015  4:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sel_69l to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
This sort of situation is a sad one.
I am happy to buy a fake coin provided that is actually sold a fake. The acquisition of a 'black' collection is a good way on how to educate oneself, and build the skill necessary to detect them.
One of the increasing problems is that the best quality fakes are being sold as genuine. That is why the situation is sad.

Best quality fakes from China are getting harder and harder to determine conclusively if they are fake or not.

The ante needs to be lifted. What is needed is a publication which reports on the metal analyis of pillar dollars, looking from trace elements only, not silver.
The sort of volume research needed is now possible with the increasing use of hand held XRF instruments. They are becoming increasingly available through bullion dealers and the more professional coin dealers.

The original refiners of the silver for Pillar dollars were not as efficient as are the modern refiners, and so there is a 'fingerprint' of trace elements left behind for the modern researcher and coin dealer to find.

Same applies with ancient gold and silver coins.



So, what is the deal? ONLY buy a fake coin if it is agreed by both parties that it is indeed a fake.
Most of my 'black' collection has come through dealers with decades of experience who have trusted me NOT to re sell them. You need to establish a good rapport with a dealer over decades to build that trust.

Edited by sel_69l
12/17/2015 4:44 pm
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swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 12/19/2015  10:42 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Numismatic Forgeries abound on ebay precisely because it makes economic sense to ebay. There was no money in policing and removing fraud so they gave up.

"Let the buyer beware" is their current policy.

The belief that Counterfeits, Forgeries and Replicas are not allowed by ebay is DEAD WRONG. Their rules merely prohibit selling them but no one enforces that. The ONLY removals come when sellers AGREE that what they are selling is not genuine. Even when removals take place it usually requires extra effort or special contacts with ebay insiders. THIS IS APPEASEMENT - IT DOES NOT STOP ONE PERCENT OF FRAUD.

The big forgery rings in Beijing, Spain and Eastern Europe simply INSIST what they are selling are genuine coins. Of course they are liars. However, legally ebay must take their word for that or face law suits and political pressure. The forgery rings are organized and they were actually instrumental in getting ebay to remove the watch committee.

That policy works when buyers know what they are doing but novice bidders think they are protected.

Prices are set by the forgers. They use shill bidding to drive prices to a minimum acceptable threshold. That is why prices are over $50. They go as high as the novice bidders will go. They are assisted by the ebay policy of hiding bidders identities. As ebay insiders the Watch Committee could get access to these names and shill bidding was OBVIOUSLY TAKING PLACE. But getting management to cut off the head of the snake was NOT POSSIBLE. The money from thousands of fake seller names goes back to the same place when you follow the money trail. Management (my manager at ebay) knew precisely where the money went - one big seller - but she was also removed when all 38 of us were let go.

odentheviking If you want to get the products cheaply - make friends with sellers in Hong Kong and Singapore who are actually independent of the Beijing ring. Some have access to the same material. Write to them. Ask. Offer a fair price $5-8 and you will find takers.

sel_69l When seen in person 99% of the forgeries made in China can be easily identified. In photographs it is becoming more difficult. The forgers also have professional photographers who are good at hiding most problems.

The best counterfeits coming from China are actually quite old and were made in the UK and US between 1830 and 1930. These are the silver counterfeits which can in some cases be identified by LABORATORY XRF testing. There are trace contaminants which can identify certain mints but the level of contamination is not always high enough to be detected by hand held XRF testers. They are only capable to a fraction of 1% which varies in practice and by the type of XRF being used. The hand held units are also limited by which elements can be identified.

Lab XRF can test for all elements from Carbon to Uranium. The test depth is 100 times deeper than the hand held units. The lab units can also test to ONE PART PER MILLION. That is accuracy to 0.0001%. At that level the test is super accurate.

The hand held XRF is great as a screening device. It can test for many of (if not all) of the key elements. It can ID most modern forgeries rather well and it is great for most Class 1 counterfeits especially those made with debased silver. It will also disclose high levels of gold in the order of 1% that is found in many genuine Mexican coins.

It does have limitations. It is not point capable so electro-plate may alter results and a tiny spot can not be tested by itself. It really needs to be used along with an in depth knowledge of counterfeit and forgery types and how they wear so that results are meaningful.

Valued Member
odentheviking's Avatar
United States
425 Posts
 Posted 12/19/2015  11:48 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add odentheviking to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thank you gentlemen for honest if not harsh replies. I'm going to have to think about this for a while.......
But my first response is "WOW!"
Just plain "WOW!"
It's like all the fun of finding and collecting counterfeit pillar dollars has been ripped out of this and exchanged for pure profit.
Makes me think of just selling my whole collection on ebay while it has a high value....... Buyer beware right?
My favorite coins that I collected where the ones that the seller truely thought they were real, and most the bidders did also. I would contact the seller and tell them my belief and offer a "copy" price if the auction winner returned the coin.
But that can't happen any more under this system.
I think this is what happens when folks start to collect coins as an "investment" and not because they truely love the coins.
I will have to think about this.
Bedrock of the Community
sel_69l's Avatar
Australia
21786 Posts
 Posted 12/19/2015  3:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sel_69l to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
swamperbob: Thankyou for probably the most pragmatic and usefully practical approaches I have read, when it comes to assessing suspicious coins to be found on ebay.

I was aware of most of the limitations of hand held XRF, but I now know a little more in this regard. A neighbour of mine has a standing offer to test any coin I have for me, using his hand held XRF instrument. This instrument is good contributing diagnostic tool for ancient coins.

I also fully appreciate your skill and knowledge when it comes to pillar dollars, even though it is not my specialist area of interest in numismatics. Keep that effort up; it is greatly appreciated by many, both inside and outside the CCF.
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swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 12/19/2015  7:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
odentheviking As a US seller on ebay (or ebay - which I kind of like) do not sell numismatic forgeries and spend the money too quickly. Let the buyer beware protects ebay not re-sellers. If you sell a forgery with no warning, the buyer can still make a claim for a refund. If you refuse to refund or do not reply to the buyer (as most fraudulent dealers do), the claim goes to ebay as a Case. Then ebay will contact you. They will negotiate for the buyer and YOU WILL PAY INCLUDING SHIPPING COSTS BOTH WAYS or have your access to ebay terminated. LIKELY FOREVER. Remember ebay knows your name - address etc..

Most of the forgers make up names (literally by the thousand) - pair them with stolen bank records of elderly people. They take their identity, address and bank account numbers and set up a fraudulent existence on ebay and PayPal too. (The actual people never realize the PayPal account exists because there are no significant transfers of funds - it remains invisible). The forger waits until the account ages (so the new guy Icon does not appear) - then they run a few sham deals with other names in the same ring. They exchange positive feedbacks for items never actually bought or sent (they are usually low ticket prices but in any event the fees don't matter - they are small potatoes). When the feedback reaches 10 to 12 - they start posting as a seller. They post fakes at low starting prices - shills drive up the prices when any bidder appears usually using tiny increments to hook the bidder - winners end up paying $50 each for say 12 or 24 coins for about 2 -3 weeks. The biggest single rip off I saw was $25,000 in two weeks. All the money sent to PayPal (which most sellers prefer) is sent via straw accounts making similar transactions between a chain of names (all fakes) and the money ends up in the Beijing factory to pay for a fictitious high ticket price item. The payments always end at the same address - a well known place (at least well known to ebay, the managers and members of the watch group).

As soon as claims from disgruntled buyers start pilling up - these guys fold their tents and disappear - but only for that ONE NAME. They have dozens more - pre-aged waiting to go. A few people can handle everything.

The bag is left with ebay. They will of course terminate access to ebay for the person whose identity was stolen. We once had the RCMP actually raid a home in Canada because we figured it was a main transfer point but it was just an old couple who didn't even own a computer. Since there is no direct effect on their bank account, the person whose identity was stolen is never even aware of the theft. That is unless the elderly person tries to start an ebay account for the folks in the rest home. Then they have to explain and make an appeal to ebay.

There were of course a myriad of problems with the former system but we did try to establish linkages between names by matching names listed in feedback and matching photographs used in the initial feedback items. For one group, I had identified and reported as many as 200 related IDs PER WEEK. The group had generated literally thousands of names - traced back to one source - and just before we were ready to pounce (so to speak) we, the members of the committee and the manager, were terminated. We were never even told we were fired. One day all the IDs and access channels simply disappeared. If I had not gotten personal email addresses before hand from my manager, I might never have known what happened.

Another issue that used to tick me off was that I would get the actual buyer's name and contact them in the name of ebay - telling them that an item they had bought was a forgery. In 90% of the cases where I did the follow up personally, the buyers who had been duped said they had learned a great lesson but they would not claim against the seller. About 80% had already posted positive feedback in these exchanges - proving to me that the buyers didn't know or didn't want to admit being taken.

I never figured out why that percentage was so high, but I suspected at least some of the buyers planned to pass the fraud along by selling the coin to someone even less experienced. I have no real proof of that except from discussions and emails with buyers. I was surprised by the ethics of anyone who would just pass along the fraud to cut his own losses. So I had developed a decent database of these folks (I planned to terminate any who re-posted a known fake on their own) when I was advised that what I was doing was outside the scope of what the committee was to do. I received several warnings for making these kind of contacts and for over reaching. I was told you are NOT ebay POLICE, your job is to vote on coins reported to ebay ONLY. I was advised to stop batch reporting fraud internally. I had to file individual reports as an ebay member. Only about 50% of these reports ever resulted in termination and of course the reason or action could not be reported to me because of privacy concerns.

I guess you can tell I am still frustrated even though almost two years have past since we were let go.

Oden - you said:


Quote:
It's like all the fun of finding and collecting counterfeit pillar dollars has been ripped out of this and exchanged for pure profit.


Collecting counterfeits can be fun and profitable if what you are buying are actual COUNTERFEITS. In about 11 years of being active on ebay and screening EVERY single Spanish Colonial auction every day for 8 years, I can say with good confidence that I have seen no more than 6 actual Contemporary Circulating Pillar (Dos Mundos) Dollars posted on ebay. I believe I won 5 of the 6.

Dos Mundos counterfeits are VERY RARE. Forgeries of Dos Mundos Dollars are excessively common. At least 3 of 4 auctions of Dos Mundos 8Rs involve some form of ebay violation - normally forgery.

Portrait Pillar Dollars are slightly different. Only 3 or 4 out of 10 are fraudulent. There are many more counterfeits too. These Counterfeits are collectable and valuable. The forgeries (the frauds) are basically worth melt.

Spanish American Republican coins vary by country - some like Mexico have high numbers of counterfeits (exceeding the numbers of forgeries) while others like Chile or Argentina the reverse is true.

Make sure you can distinguish Contemporary Circulating Counterfeits from Numismatic Forgeries - they are drastically different in rarity and value.

BUT YOU CAN HAVE FUN WITH FORGERIES - YOU WILL JUST NOT ACHIEVE A PROFIT.
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swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 12/19/2015  7:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
sel_69l You started your first comment saying:


Quote:
I am happy to buy a fake coin provided that is actually sold a fake. The acquisition of a 'black' collection is a good way on how to educate oneself, and build the skill necessary to detect them.


That is exactly correct. You need to see all kinds of forgeries IN PERSON to get to know what they are. You need to hold, feel and even smell them (I leave out taste them because that could be dangerous). The point is how can you recognize one without the experience of seeing them? Plus you do not want to spend too much learning.

Then you need to go the next step and that is distinguish between collectible (valuable) and non-collectible types. To start with I prefer counterfeit as the name for the collectible type because they circulated as money and often were marked "counterfeit". I prefer forgery for the numismatic frauds because they are fooling collectors just like a forger fools art collectors with forgeries of paintings.

In numismatics we use one word for both things and people get confused or we use several words interchangeably even though fake coins are not all the same.

When I started working for ebay, I naively thought it would be simple for them to grasp the difference between Contemporary Counterfeits (legal to own types - non-current issues etc.) and Numismatic Forgeries (made to defraud collectors). Fat chance - it was like talking to a stone wall (most ebay managers are not collectors) and when I got to ebay Legal it was like we were talking completely different languages entirely. Legal terms are far too nuanced and the people I spoke with seemed to confuse themselves. I know it sounded like double talk to me.

So instead of taking the "official" policy change route, I tried to educate my managers (low level worker bees) that there were many counterfeit coins already being sold under other names - evasion, Machin's Mills, fouree and in some cases novodell. I convinced a couple that allowing properly described counterfeits (no fraud) was ok. It would work for a while - then management rotation came along and the process started from ground level again.

One final point - while we collect different types of coins we both collect coins. The picture on the coin is one of the last things I study. I need to know how the coin was supposed to have been made and I look for clues on the coin that do not match that method.

Here are two facts that we all need to keep in mind.

1). No coin can be made with a technology that did not exist when that coin was made.
2). No coin can be made with an alloy or metal that could not be produced when the coin was made.

I could fill a book with examples where these two statements are violated by both collectors and dealers.

Finally use the XRF handheld on all coins initially. It gives great answers to macro questions - like is a coin Bronze, Brass or Copper. It can also tell between Sterling Silver (925 fine) and Coin Silver (900 fine). The human eye and experience can be tricked on those points. Debased silver and German silver are readily confused by collectors but not the XRF. The handheld XRF can even distinguish electro-plate from Sheffield plate.

So I do applaud your use of XRF just learn the various limits that apply.

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jgenn's Avatar
United States
1156 Posts
 Posted 12/21/2015  8:46 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jgenn to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks for the details on your time with ebay, swamperbob. You've mentioned some of this in your other posts but never to this depth (or maybe I've missed it).


Quote:
Another issue that used to tick me off was that I would get the actual buyer's name and contact them in the name of ebay - telling them that an item they had bought was a forgery. In 90% of the cases where I did the follow up personally, the buyers who had been duped said they had learned a great lesson but they would not claim against the seller. About 80% had already posted positive feedback in these exchanges - proving to me that the buyers didn't know or didn't want to admit being taken.


I was contacted twice about pillar dollars that I purchased, however I was simply warned that the seller was known to sell forgeries. I was not told that the coin in question was thought to be fake and the person that contacted me did not identify themselves at all let alone as being officially associated with ebay. Frankly, I was confused and suspicious -- the only other post auction communications that I had were fraudulent second chance offers. Perhaps that explains the low return rate. In my case, one was certified by NGC but the other was rejected by both NGC and PCGS.

I have made returns but some I held onto for too long. I plan on buying a COPY stamp and marking the several pieces of junk that I've acquired when I sell them off to claim my capital loss.

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swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 12/21/2015  9:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
jgenn If the person who contacted you failed to mention the ebay connection, I doubt that it was legitimate. We were supposed to properly identify ourselves.

You say:

Quote:
In my case, one was certified by NGC but the other was rejected by both NGC and PCGS.


The only contacts we made were for Numismatic Forgeries that were well known and beyond all doubt fakes. Do you have photos of both coins? I would love to see them.

Regarding marking of fakes - make sure you DO NOT mark a counterfeit. It would drastically reduce value of a collectible counterfeit to have it labeled as a COPY. That designation implies a post 1974 origin.

Post photos first and then ask the forum take a look. Do this before you mark them. If you happen to have a counterfeit I would post it on ebay - call it contemporary non-regal issue. See how much it brings.
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jgenn's Avatar
United States
1156 Posts
 Posted 12/22/2015  10:09 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jgenn to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
swamperbob said

Quote:
Do you have photos of both coins? I would love to see them.

Yes, I'll post some photos in a new thread, although the subject of this thread is likely to be valid.

After pulling together a nice collection of pillar dollars from mostly raw examples, I have a better feel for identifying the legitimate ones. The two I mentioned do look suspicious to my better trained eye (even the slabbed one).
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swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 12/23/2015  2:48 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
jgenn I guess you caught my inference that having a coin slabbed by NGC is no guarantee of authenticity.
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MathieuMa's Avatar
France
1591 Posts
 Posted 12/28/2015  11:55 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add MathieuMa to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Here is a nice gross fake in a slab, to illustrate swamperbob's says . it's actyally the worse I've seen (anyone knowing those coins from far or being able to check a book or recent auctions will figure out there is something wrong)
Silver-Pillar-Dollars-From-China?
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swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 12/28/2015  1:40 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
MathieuMa Great example - I do not know enough about the design of this early type of Peruvian to go further than to say it looks "VERY suspicious". In person I believe it would be a rather easy authentication made without regard to the design at all. I authenticate based on the way the coin was manufactured. The coin appears to be made with a modern die. But in a photo, there is no way to confirm that suspicion.

I did check the PCGS and the coin is the same so a faked PCGS slab does not come into play. Here is the PCGS photo:
Silver-Pillar-Dollars-From-China?

The coin is the same - but comparing the two photos does show how light angles can make that comparison a bit difficult. The damage near the rim near the A in ANO looks different. The streaky toning however is identical as are actual die details.

I think that recent trends in encapsulation have focused so much more on grading and grade-flation for profit that authentication has been sacrificed.

In discussing the situation with former graders it is obvious that the vast majority of coins submitted are common coins where the owner is seeking a high MS grade to make a buck. These coins spend less than 30 seconds with a grader. That is where the profit in the business comes from. These are the "easy money" no real work and high fees.

Most of the graders are NOT authenticators. I know some of them rather well and one actually became a pupil of mine AFTER he left a TPG to open his own business. He really was a rank beginner to authentication, but he was a very quick study and now rarely calls on me for assistance.

A non-common coin such as the one appearing here (population 1) is not one that generates a big profit for a TPG. It also takes expertise the graders now lack. Graders who authenticate at all seem to know modern coins at most. Actual authenticators are few in number and overworked. The corporate policy seems to be "so what if a few fakes get through. We will go after the submitting dealer to recover our losses".

So sending in a rare old coin will be unlikely to generate much interest initially. You can however pay for "extra authentication" which results in an expert being employed. This in my experience adds about $50 to the bill PER COIN.

That is the heart of the issue. Authentication costs too much to really be included in a typical grading fee.

At the rate the TPGs are going, I believe they need to drop authenticity from their guarantee or do a MUCH BETTER JOB.

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