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71 Posts
 Posted 01/21/2016  01:08 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add coinphotofan to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
The image is showing very good sharpness for 10x at pixel-level. Not so sharp at the left edge but middle and right side is good. It seems the problem you're having is more to do with depth of field rather than the objective itself. Likely you need to stack a few images even to get the relatively flat field fully in focus.

It is good to know that this image is doing justice to the 10x lens. I realize that for the full image to be sharp, I have to stack. The lens may not even be parallel to the coin. I will take care of these. At the moment, I still have problems with sharpness. Not all my 10x photos show this sharpness. In fact most do not. I am trying to figure out how I can consistently produce this sharpness. I am using a Nikon 5200, with remote shutter release and mirror lock-up. The shutter speed can be as low as 1/6 second as lighting is diffused. I can observe shaking of the camera body when the mirror is raised (and lowered). I am wondering whether increase shutter speed would help. As I have no control of the aperture, a friend suggested increasing ISO.

Another way to eliminate vibration caused by mirror action is to use LiveView. But in LiveView, the shutter speed is limited to 1/30 or faster. I found this afternoon that turning off Manual Movie Settings can override this limit. I still have to try it out.


Quote:
What I do see is perhaps a contrast problem with the objective. This could be due to flare, or it could be due to internal reflections inside your extensions. I would suggest looking down into the extension system without camera while shining a flashlight into the objective to see how much light is reflecting off the inner surfaces. You may need to add some light absorbing material.

I discovered that some light is reflected off the inside of the cone-shaped adapter. How can I add light absorbing material?


Quote:
As to workflow, the starting point for the RAW processor is the in-camera Picture Style. When you load the RAW image it will look pretty much like the .jpg unless you make changes to it. The Style info is stored with the RAW image and applied by the editor. How that info is interpreted by the editor varies between editors, so they'll each look a little different. What are your in-camera Picture Style settings and sub-settings? How much post-processing are you doing to the RAW image?

I have not changed the picture control setting in the camera. It is "Standard." I normally do some sharpening, exposure and contrast adjustment during post-processing.
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4038 Posts
 Posted 01/21/2016  07:59 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Another way to eliminate vibration caused by mirror action is to use LiveView. But in LiveView, the shutter speed is limited to 1/30 or faster. I found this afternoon that turning off Manual Movie Settings can override this limit. I still have to try it out.


Your D5200 does not have EFCS, so the problem you're having with sharpness is probably due to shutter shake. With non-EFCS cameras, only effective way to eliminate shutter shake is to use external flash with 2nd curtain sync. You can prove if the problem exists by using delayed lighting, but it's not very practical. To do this, adjust lighting so that you need a 1-sec exposure. Use a single light for convenience and add more diffusion, etc. Set ISO to 100 or lower if available. Once you have 1-sec exposure settings, change to manual mode and 2-sec exposure. Turn off the lights. Press the shutter release. Wait 1 sec. During that 1 sec the vibrations from the camera will dissipate. Turn on the light in such a way as to not induce any vibrations. This will give the proper 1 sec exposure with no vibration and will tell you if the shutter shake is the issue you're seeing.

If so, you'll either need to start using flash, or get a Canon camera. Even the venerable Canon XS has EFSC, and does not need flash to eliminate shutter shake.


Quote:

I discovered that some light is reflected off the inside of the cone-shaped adapter. How can I add light absorbing material?


You can buy sticky-back black velvet flocking material, or other type of velvety material. Just make sure it looks very black. Cut a small piece and form into a cone shape and place inside the cone adapter. Cone adapters are notorious for reflections.


Quote:

I have not changed the picture control setting in the camera. It is "Standard." I normally do some sharpening, exposure and contrast adjustment during post-processing.


If you're just using Standard style, you're doing a lot of internal sharpening, and your contrast settings are higher than you want them to be. Go into the Standard Style settings menu, turn off sharpening, and reduce contrast, and you will have a better starting point for your post processing. You can do the same thing in the RAW processor as well. It should show what Picture Style is being used and allow you to change it.


Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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