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Replies: 18 / Views: 3,107 |
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New Member
United States
42 Posts |
I use many sources for the value of coins. ebay, Heritage Auction archives, Great Collections archives, Coin World, NGC, PCGS and the greysheet. I'm trying to find a more complete source for wholesaler/dealer pricing for US non-dollar coins. The greysheet has numerous holes. What do you use to establish a realistic price you should pay for a coin? Trying to get into this fun hobby again. Thanks Ray
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Moderator
 United States
14463 Posts |
I also look at online retail prices
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3843 Posts |
I know that there are coin dealer networks in existence where dealers place bid and ask prices for wholesale transactions. But I don't think that common collectors can reference these unless you are friendly with a member dealer. Personally I use a combination of numismedia and completed ebay auctions.
Edited by Joe2007 02/15/2016 11:25 pm
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2843 Posts |
ebay is a great place to feel out what people are actually paying for any given coin. Far more accurate than published prices. IMHO
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts |
Coin values are established by the market place. Works well for higher priced coins because their auction records can be reviewed. Does not work so well for lower priced coins that never appear in the auction records. Can be much harder to find market values, because a review of ebay prices is about the only to find out, and even then, without much accuracy. That can take a lot of time. You can look in the recognised pricing catalogs, but one wonders how the prices for lower valued coins was decidied on. In this case, perhaps the catlogs are a leading influence on lower priced coins rather than the other way around. VCOINS pricing can work quite well for ancient coins. Around $30 million worth of ancient coins are available for sale at any instant.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6130 Posts |
The values for key dates, XF-MS examples, and anything made prior to the Barber series is pretty well entrenched in the market. I agree that ebay is the best source for everything worth more than $5-10. Anything less than that, and the shipping cost will impact what people are willing to pay. Also, it's worth noting that most silver coins in VF or worse (Barber and later) are only worth melt value, which of course fluctuates much faster than even the Greysheet can be published.
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Valued Member
United States
109 Posts |
I personally use the Official Blue Book when I'm checking but I would use nonlinear sources for anything below an MS 63
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Moderator
 United States
189142 Posts |
I generally use NumisMedia to find my prices. If you want values for the more valuable stuff I would also look at auction results, like ebay and Heritage.
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Valued Member
United States
109 Posts |
Whoops! My phone auto corrected me. I meant to say "online" not "nonlinear"
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4469 Posts |
I use ebay sold and Heritage realized. On some coins with nice toning or strong eye appeal I will use the NGC or PCGS listed price as a not to exceede number.
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
1463 Posts |
I use the Krause publications mainly for buying, but in some cases go for much more than the catalogue price.
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
It depends on what you are considering purchasing. Though ebay is good for current prices if you are looking to buy TPG with PCGS ad NGC, it can be a good bit more difficult for non-TPG coins. So it makes a huge difference as to a recommendation according to your want list and grade standards. ebay, Heritage, and Great Collections probably take care of about 80% of the coins I purchase, with the other 20% being at shows. I keep a running tab on my want list when the items on that want list sell. As an example, I've been looking for a 1936-S Walking Liberty half in MS-64. They sell much more frequently in MS-65, but the selling price between the 64 and the 65 exceeds 100%. So in this instance the a beautiful 64 makes better sense to me. Looking at all of the different price guides that you mention gives me a range from $250 all the way up to about $450. That's a huge range for a single coin in a single grade. Right now there is one that will be closing on ebay today that is still under $200, but it has milk spots, which I just hate. I'd rather wait and pay more if need be for one I will love, rather than just tolerate. So again, this example is just what a single coin might lead to as far as prices are concerned. I use all of the lists you used, but always take sold prices (and those that don't sell at a specific BIN or BO price) as the major factor. So what do you think you will be looking for?
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts |
It would be interesting to find out how Krause and NGC determine the prices for the lower valued coins that are listed.
I am curious, because there are no auction records for lower valued coins. There are no auction records for these coins, because their potential value does not justify the work to auction them. That is, despite the fact that there may be more than a 1/4 million of listed values for them in the 1900-2000 catalog.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6130 Posts |
2-5 cents is the standard price for 1940-58 wheat cents in your typical circulated condition. Basically every LCS, flea market, and ebay lot sale confirms this. Likewise with 25 cents per Buffalo nickel (15 if dateless), $1 each for V nickels and IHCs. Jefferson nickels are a bit more of an anomaly... most catalogs list them at $0.06 for non-keys, but they are much harder to find a buyer, even at 1 cent over face.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
 I only buy coins at coin shows. Before I go to one, I look up coins I need, want, could use, etc. in places like the Grey Sheet, Numismedia, The Red Book, ebay, etc. Then I go to the show and buy what I need or want based on how cheap I an find them. By that I mean I well know the prices of certain coins. IF I find a dealer with those coins for those prices, I buy the ones I need or want from that dealer. I never buy from places like ebay. Just don't want that lost in mail, wrong coin sent, postage, insurances, no returns, etc.
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New Member
 United States
42 Posts |
Thank you all. I turn coins quickly and try to buy MS-67 or higher coins of all series. The Greysheet often stops at MS-65 for their pricing.
Thanks for the suggestion to check out Numismedia and other suggestions.
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Replies: 18 / Views: 3,107 |