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 Replies: 17 / Views: 6,935 |
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Valued Member
United States
430 Posts |
I just received a lens I bought on ebay. it's a Fujimoto E-Lucky Anistigmat 75mm f3.5 enlarging lens. Anybody have info about this lens? I just took a couple of snaps with it and I'm very impressed. I was planning on posting a comparison of all my lenses. but I think I may have to delay that to add this one. I think it may become my everyday coin lens. here are some samples  Different coin close up  1:1 crop  Edited by Wizzy1
08/12/2016 10:59 am
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Moderator
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
Looks great Wizzy! E-Lucky lenses are true EL-Cheapo lenses, but obviously in the best spirit of this category.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.comEdited by rmpsrpms
08/13/2016 08:35 am
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Valued Member
 United States
430 Posts |
Yes, very el-cheapo. $16 US shipped. BTW it's not rocky its wizzy1.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
Sorry wizzy. Great deal on the lens! I may pick one up for testing purposes.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
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Pillar of the Community
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4038 Posts |
Wizzy...could you post a pic of the lens you bought. There are a few versions and vintages.
I see that the one you got is the anastigmat. I had excellent results from a couple other anastigmats, so am wondering now if this construction leads to good coin lenses. I'll need to check that out. It may be that anastigmats are better near 1:1 than other enlarger lens formulas.
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Pillar of the Community
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949 Posts |
Ray, please forgive the slight sidebar, but something caught my eye.
How did you mount your 75mm lens to the camera body for this thread; direct or through something?
I see here that you have a full image of a silver dollar in the field of view, but with a 75mm on my bellows at minimum extension, I am lucky to get a full size denarius (between nickel and dime) to fit. I suspect it is a minimum extension thing, but I would like to be sure. Just bought an 80mm El Nikkor to try to bump it up and that does help.
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Pillar of the Community
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Not my thread, I just replied to it. Wizzy1 took the pics.
It's very dependent on the bellows, and any extensions you add. The bellows that work best with 75mm lenses are:
Pentax Auto Bellows
Novoflex dual and quad rail
Vivitar Bellows System
Vivitar Triple Track
Spiratone MacroBel
In all the cases above, you need to use minimum length extensions to frame larger coins.
The above assumes a Canon or Nikon camera. MFT or other mirrorless cameras have a much easier time due to shorter register distance.
The bellows I generally use is the Canon Auto Bellows. I don't shoot much besides Cents, so I can use 75mm, but if I need to shoot Dollars I go with 90-105mm.
Edited by rmpsrpms
08/13/2016 1:06 pm
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Valued Member
United States
430 Posts |
lrbguy, My setup is a canon EOS rebel XS connected to a vintage Novoflex exacta dual rail bellows. There is a Canon EOS to Exacta adapter to mount the camera on the bellows. My microscope stand allows a lot of flexibility in getting pics of small coins and up to Morgan dollars with a 75mm lens. See this thread. https://goccf.com/t/228546&whichpage=4#1920218Ray, I'll post pics of the lens later today. Working on lens shootout also coming today. |
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Pillar of the Community
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Sorry for the mixup, Wizzy. The end result of your work on the microscope stand gives you a combination of rails very similar to what I use, and we are both using the same camera body. However, the movements of the rails have nothing to do with the problem to which I was referring. My concern is literally focused on the distance from the front of the lens to the plane of the camera sensor. With a 75mm lens that distance must be smaller than the separation I am getting with my present "stack" which includes either a Nikon or Olympus bellows at minimum extension, a helicoid for fine focus, and various adapters. Here is a shot from another thread of my setup with a 105 El Nikkor in place: http://www.coincommunity.com/forum/...iewed-sm.jpgYour setup does not seem to use the helicoid, and that might be the key difference. Looking over the set of small footprint units Ray listed, I'm glad I asked, because just yesterday I was cleaning out a box of gear and came across my old Spiratone "Rapid-Rail" Macrobel and focusing rail I got back in the 70s. I was using a Honeywell Pentax in those days, so this unit is already set for 42mm threads. Two nice things about that bellows I particularly liked were: the ability to "quick slide" the extension, and the ability to rotate the mounted camera body without adding any special extensions for clearance. Not sure either of those features will be needed these days. I will have to try out a 75mm on that since it seems to have a smaller footprint all around so I can get a shorter minimum extension and more real estate in the image. My best lens is a 75ARD1, so I really would like to use it as you guys do. |
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Valued Member
United States
430 Posts |
lrbguy, I am no expert, I'm asking here most of the time. But I can tell you that when I first put my bellows setup together I had a different canon EOS to Exacta adapter between the camera and the bellows. My vintage bellows did not have a canon mount. I could not focus on most coins with this arrangement. I later bought a thinner adapter (only 1mm less) and this made a huge difference. Any thing that reduces the distance between the camera sensor and the bellows is critical. What is between the bellows and the camera in your setup? I don't think adding distance at the other end of the bellows is as critical (with your focusing helicoid)but removing it and focusing with a rail may also make a difference. I also thought the focusing helicoid was suggested in the non-bellows extension tube setup. Since you already have a bellows I don't think you need a helicoid. Try it out. Good luck. wizzy1 BTW that pic at the top of the thread is a half dollar. But I can shoot Morgan dollars with all my 75mm lenses. Edited by Wizzy1
08/14/2016 4:18 pm
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Pillar of the Community
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4038 Posts |
I looked through my lenses and found an Accura Anastigmat that appears to be the same lens as the Fujimoto. Probably Fujimoto made the lenses for Accura (or maybe vice versa?) and they are just re-branded. I'll need to check the Accura, as I don't think I have tested it.
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Pillar of the Community
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Quote:
Any thing that reduces the distance between the camera sensor and the bellows is critical. Wizzy, unless I'm not getting what you are saying correctly your observation would only be true if the bellows added a lens at the point where it is closest to the camera body. Otherwise it is merely extending the separation of the sensor and the imaging lens focal plane. The effect of adding a centimeter (or whatever) of additional separation is the same whether it takes place in the middle of the lens stack or at either end. On the other hand, there are adapters that add glass to enable "infinity focus" and these will have an effect on the image size limits of a setup. But a simple "confirm" adapter should not do more than add a bit of length to the lens stack. Edited by lrbguy
08/15/2016 6:53 pm
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Pillar of the Community
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What matters for minimum magnification is the minimum total extension (MTE) of the bellows system, which includes bellows itself, lens adapter, camera adapter, any extensions, and camera register distance. So what Wizzy is saying is it's critical to minimize the length of any adapters or extensions used between the camera and the bellows. Since he says "sensor" rather than camera, his statement also includes camera register distance, which can be minimized by using a MFT or similar camera.
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I think he is saying more than that Ray, because he follows up the sentence I quoted with this: "I don't think adding distance at the other end of the bellows is as critical (with your focusing helicoid)but removing it and focusing with a rail may also make a difference. "
My point is that it is the total separation (stack length) that matters, and that adding a centimeter between the camera body and bellows is no different than adding it between the bellows and the lens. Would you agree with that?
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Replies: 17 / Views: 6,935 |
Posted 08/12/2016 02:14 am
