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Thinking About Starting A Winged Liberty Dime Set

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nfine's Avatar
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 Posted 02/09/2017  10:52 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add nfine to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I'm thinking I want to put together a VF/XF-AU, with later dates BU, set but I can't decide if I want to go raw or TPG. I have a complete low grade set from my grandfather in a blue Whitman folder, that's been sitting for 30 years, that I will be building from. I'm working with a modest budget and I'm not in hurry. Any suggestions on how to proceed will be greatly appreciated. Grading guides, specialty sites, suggested albums and/or other recommendations welcome.

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Mark1959's Avatar
7234 Posts
 Posted 02/09/2017  3:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Mark1959 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Start with a slabbed 16-D (Too many raw counterfeits), If you can afford that one then the rest are a piece of cake!
Edited by Mark1959
02/09/2017 3:15 pm
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nfine's Avatar
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 Posted 02/09/2017  3:29 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nfine to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Buying the big money key as the first coin? Not how I was thinking about approaching this but definitely something to consider. I could fill a lot of holes with that $4-6K though.
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Mark1959's Avatar
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 Posted 02/09/2017  3:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Mark1959 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I could fill a lot of holes with that $4-6K though


True, but eventually you'll have to buy one. I like to take the big "Hits" out of the way first.
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 Posted 02/09/2017  3:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Druu to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If you get that one first, it'll make completing the rest of the series easier for two reasons: 1) you already have the most difficult one -- is it the most difficult? there's an overdate in the early 40s, right? -- so the rest will be easier to find, by comparison; and 2) you may wind up thinking "I paid so much darn money for the first one, so I might as well finish up the set.

If you're looking for common VF/XF, you should be able to find some in junk silver bins.
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Dual-brain's Avatar
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 Posted 02/09/2017  4:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dual-brain to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Dru is very right, most of the dates will be available in VF for melt value... If you don't mind the hunt
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KenKat's Avatar
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 Posted 02/09/2017  4:41 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KenKat to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Since you already have a complete set including the 16-D, I think you have to decide if it is worth it to you to upgrade the one key date to VF or better or if you put all of that money into the other coins and let the lower grade 16-D being the exception. With a modest budget, I'd be inclined to put the money into the rest of the set.
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 Posted 02/09/2017  4:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Druu to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Dual-brain, I may be slightly off topic, but did you buy all your Roosevelts toned? I've come across a few UNC dimes in junk bins, and I'm wondering if any of the legitimate methods of toning work: setting on a window sill, leaving it an envelope somewhere, etc.
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Dual-brain's Avatar
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 Posted 02/09/2017  5:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dual-brain to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I bought them all toned (i did it the expensive way)

I was going to attempt such a toning method myself... I Think a before/after thread may be in order... I have heard it takes more than a year
Edited by Dual-brain
02/09/2017 5:53 pm
New Member
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 Posted 02/09/2017  6:20 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ParkCityBranch to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Since you already have a complete set maybe you should consider a high grade short set or the high grade proof set. Just some thoughts.
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Dual-brain's Avatar
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404 Posts
 Posted 02/09/2017  6:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dual-brain to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Ah, I did the proof set... Satisfying... ALl except the '36 are reasonably priced
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Andrew99's Avatar
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 Posted 02/11/2017  08:42 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Andrew99 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:

I was going to attempt such a toning method myself... I Think a before/after thread may be in order... I have heard it takes more than a year


I did it manually. I took 20 years in a Wayte Raymond holder to get them done. I now wish I had done it with a bunch of Barber dimes as I'd be a lot richer.
Edited by Andrew99
02/11/2017 08:43 am
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Dual-brain's Avatar
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404 Posts
 Posted 02/11/2017  11:02 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dual-brain to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Exactly Andrew, the only way to get it to look right is patience (imho)
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 Posted 02/11/2017  2:23 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Druu to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Can you post a pic of some of the Mercs you toned in the Wayte Raymond folder? Out of curiosity, I checked ebay for toned Roosevelt dimes, and I stumbled across a guy selling a ton of heat toned Roosevelts. Way too vibrant.
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Fathead 5's Avatar
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294 Posts
 Posted 02/19/2017  6:34 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Fathead 5 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Just get the '16-D in the highest, slabbed grade you can afford and you're done! Don't bother with the rest of them.
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Omegaraptor's Avatar
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321 Posts
 Posted 02/19/2017  7:47 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Omegaraptor to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I would say forget about the 16-D and focus on upgrading everything else. Trust me, having everything in decent grade except the 16-D looks much, much better than having everything except the 16-D in low grade.
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