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Replies: 15 / Views: 3,080 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1192 Posts |
Let's say you are putting together a set of coins. Is the "MS" distinction mandatory or could the AU-58 be a better choice? I've heard various schools of thought on this. Many say "buy the best coin you can afford." But what if a MS63 or above is going to cost you $500 but a MS66 that has a tiny bit of wear(therefore becomes a 58) is $200? Isn't that the better buy? Just curious on people's thoughts on this. Lately I've been strongly considering a AU58 set (not sure on the series yet). I think its critical to really know a series to go this route(especially in regard to strike) but it could save a lot of money if you know what you're doing.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
I have some AU58 coins that look just like MS except maybe a mark. There are many coins like Morgans where the difference between AU and MS is huge in cost. We are talking thousands of bucks. If you want to complete sets you will often have to just look for the best coins you can afford. I think AU58 coins really fit the bill on scarce coins. If I had an AU58 1916 LSQ I would be happy.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1314 Posts |
From my perspective, you may be putting the cart before the horse. I would say pick the series you want to collect first, and then discover just where the big price break is. For my world type collection, VF is the route to go. For Oriental cash coins, I'm not experienced enough to be picky. Morgan die study examples are being upgraded from MS63 and MS64 to 65 and 66.
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
7096 Posts |
In my experience an AU58 coin usually has far more eye appeal than a MS60, 61, 62 coin, Even MS63, 64 coins can be pretty ordinary. AN AU58 coin usually has a great strike, very few or No dings or scratches, Heaps of remaining lustre and only a Hint of wear. The AU58 coins can also usually be had for a fraction of the price for a MS64/5 coin as well. It all depends on how you want to collect, if you want the best of the uncirculated coins then you will need a rather large wallet But if you are happy with the best of the circulated coins then it won't cost you an arm and a leg and you will still end up with a collection of great looking coins 
Edited by trout1105 02/25/2017 05:58 am
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Pillar of the Community
Russian Federation
5174 Posts |
I'd personally prefer a nice XF (or even VF) to either (not least because it's often several times cheaper), but if I had to choose from high grades, I'd choose AU58. IIRC, in many cases (such as, IIRC, for some common-date Morgan dollars), there's nearly no premium from VF all the way up to the low MS grades, but better examples than that cost more. In this case, AU58 is definitely the way to go - at least, assuming you can find any. That said, I don't think I have a single slabbed coin of any grade in my collection yet (for the simple reason that coins worth less than $20 or so are hardly ever slabbed, and I pretty much never buy any coins for more than about $15), and if I do end up getting one, it will probably be MS (very possibly MS63), because non-MS slabs of lower-value coins are significantly rarer.
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Rest in Peace
United States
18456 Posts |
Quote: In my experience an AU58 coin usually has far more eye appeal than a MS60  , And an AU-58 set of almost any series will cost much less than a MS set . I have many coins in all denominations that I call MS-58 and I love every one of them . 
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CCF Advertiser
United States
1533 Posts |
I have a set of SLQs I am completing in AU-58. That series was notorious back before slabs as minor wear being discounted as stacking or slide friction when selling as MS-63 and being called wear when dealer's would buy it as AU-58. I started collecting AU-58s as I figured no one is going to say it isn't AU-58. I now see tons of slabbed MS-63's in that series with obvious wear. I think the market has decided that MS coins do not go from MS-65 to AU-58 with the slightest friction and have started pricing them and grading them on a continuum from AU55 - MS-65 with wear being just one component of overall grade. Given that as well as the price jumps between grades, I think AU-58 is a great choice.
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
849 Posts |
Canadian silver dollars was/is my prime interest. My goal was to complete the set in AU50 or better. I have done that. MS64 is the highest grade I have in the set. I am happy with that.
I hear often the phrase "buy the best you can afford". I think for me I go with "buy the best for which you are willing to pay." There might be a coin that sells for $400 in MS65 but if most of my collection is in MS60 I might be content to buy it in MS60 for $160 even if I have the $400 and the cost would not impact my lifestyle. Maybe I'd rather the MS60 and use the other $240 for other coins in another series or on other hobbies. That would be the "best for which I was willing to pay".
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2125 Posts |
I think the premium put on the AU-58 grade isn't worth it. However most times an AU-58 is far more pleasing than any MS-60 through 62. I like uncleaned original mid AU grades such as the coin below. While this coin has minimal wear, I wouldn't call it AU-58 due to lack of luster. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1054 Posts |
The everyman grade set is so hot right now. I'm actually in the middle of assembling early NGC soap bar Peace dollars in 61. Weird as it may seem, it's actually a bit more affordable than the AU58 grades.
Edited by kookoox10 02/25/2017 12:14 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
I never look at a grade. I buy the best I can find and constantly update and upgrade all my Albums.
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
693 Posts |
Much of my collection consists of error coins, and the grades are not as important to me as the type of error.
For a collection of "normal" coins, the grade AU-58 coin might be better looking than many MS coins. However, seeing AU-58 on a holder gives one the impression of an impaired MS coin, rather than a coin with "honest wear".
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Pillar of the Community
Norway
1358 Posts |
Despite that 'professional' grading, like the ones done at third party graders, might be of relatively consistent quality, a coin grade is still highly subjective. This is known in 'the community' and it's why a lot of coins get resubmitted in hopes to get a more favorable grade, for example. To me, coin grading should be taken as someone's piece of advise, not as determining and definitive. For raw coins, it's even more subjective. Anyone can basically put any grade on any coin, no matter how unlikely it may look. Just add 'choice' to your description and tah-daa! any questions are solved at once. Especially dealers (or sellers on ebay) may sometimes want to sell their coins in a bit higher grade than a neutral grader would give them. Again, it's a subjective thing. As such, I'd like to advise you to just buy the coins you like and you find interesting, and don't get stuck too much on grades. Unless you wish to start collecting specific TPG graded sets of a coin, of course. And remember that there are many other coin grading systems out there, a lot of them much, much less specific than this one. And then one rhetorical question: what's the best coin? Is a higher grade automatically a better coin? What with people who collect lowballs? Or toned coins?
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Rest in Peace
10197 Posts |
Its all subjective to you, the final collector. If you'd like that level of coin "appearance", can afford it without breaking the bank(and have an understanding spouse!), and the market supply is there, go for it.
If you're someone like me, I'd be satisfied with a AG/G coin to fill the gap of my 7070. I don't have the resources to pay high $ now on a limited set income. I first enjoy the satisfaction of a completed set no matter what the grade, upgrading can be done later if I chose. Investing in coins won't make you a millionaire unless you already are one. The old addage, "It takes money, to make money", and ain't talking about counterfeiting!
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
7096 Posts |
Quote: I'm actually in the middle of assembling early NGC soap bar Peace dollars in 61. Weird as it may seem, it's actually a bit more affordable than the AU58 grades. That doesn't surprise me in the least, Most AU58 coins are far more easy on the eyes than their MS60-62 counterparts 
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Valued Member
United States
211 Posts |
It 100% depends on the series. Nickel coins look significantly better in mint state than circulated states to me. I particularly like the look of a lot of circulated copper coins. I could go both ways on silver depending on the relative cost of the grades.
An AU-58 set is not really even an option on a lot of series. It doesn't make sense to go any lower than 64 or 65 on a lot of the more modern series.
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Replies: 15 / Views: 3,080 |
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