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 Replies: 13 / Views: 1,287 |
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New Member
United States
44 Posts |
*** Moved by Staff to a more appropriate forum. ***I've got a couple Mercury 1916 D's in sets my grandparents collected, and again am looking for some assistance with grading. Continue to apologize for the poor quality of the pics (still learning how to do this proficiently). Thanks, NHcoinster  
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Rest in Peace
10197 Posts |
It takes both sides for an accurate grade. Grades are the sum of both graded sides. From the obverses i'd guess G4-6. Fortunate to have two of the key date.  Edited by Crazyb0
03/25/2017 11:10 pm
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Pillar of the Community
7234 Posts |
1) G-04
2) FR-02
This is just for the obverse pics. As stated above will need reverse pics too for an overall grade.
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New Member
 United States
44 Posts |
Thanks guys. Yeah, I realize you need to see the reverse. Just a little nervous popping them out of cases they've been in for about 40 years. Don't think I'm anywhere near trying to sell these at this (or any) point, but the few dealers I've talked to--none of which have seen the coins physically--tell me these are very often fakes. I have no idea when such coins began to be regularly faked, but again, I know they haven't been touched since the late 70's.
Thanks again!!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3184 Posts |
Get them graded by PCGS, NGC or anacs so thst it will be easier to sell in the future. Key dates are commonly faked
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Bedrock of the Community
 United States
12477 Posts |
I think you really need to pop them out (carefully) because they may not actually be 1916-d's. You won't know until you can see the MM. If they are, they definitely need to be sent to a TPG (PCGS, NGC, ANACS) to be authenticated and graded/slabbed. That will make them much easier to sell if you ever want to (not to mention protect them) and they will definitely be worth the grading fees! In Memory of Crazyb0 12-26-1951 to 7-27-2020
In Memory of Tootallious 3-31-1964 to 4-15-2020
In Memory of T-BOP 10-12-1949 to 1-19-2024
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Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
 And even if it has a D mint mark it could be a fake. If you plan on keeping them then send them to ANACS. If you plan on selling them soon than PCGS. Pop them out and post pics here on CCF first,we have pros. John1  |
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Moderator
United States
54283 Posts |
Quote:
but the few dealers I've talked to--none of which have seen the coins physically--tell me these are very often fakes. Just about every valuable U.S. coin has been and is being counterfeited. The vast majority of counterfeits will not be worn and dirty/tarnished/toned, like these two. Even without seeing the reverse, I'll speculate that the second coin is genuine. Your second photo is large and in focus. Repost a large photo of the first coin, and equally large photos of the reverses (identifying which is which). |
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New Member
United States
44 Posts |
I tried monkeying with the first pic. Maybe it will be bigger below?!? Regarding issues with counterfeit/fake coins, I guess here is my question and/or perspective. I attended my first coin show a few weeks ago, and upon speaking with several dealers regarding many "key date" coins I have, they were often instantly skeptical based upon all the fakes out there today. While I'm not trying to repeat my whole story in every post, the entirety of my collection was assembled between the 1940's and 1980's by my grandparents, and have essentially sat idle since 1986. I realize that in a sales transaction it would be essential to verify authenticity, what I'm trying to understand is WHEN coin faking became such an issue. If this has mostly been an issue within the last 20-30 years, that's still after the period when my grandparents were most active with their collecting work. Thanks again for any insight from the group.  |
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Moderator
United States
56855 Posts |
Faking coins started on day two, after the first coin was minted  Really though,there are a lot of ancient coins that are fake. John1 Edited by John1
03/26/2017 10:18 am
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Moderator
United States
54283 Posts |
While counterfeiting is probably worse now than ever, it has been going on "forever". The fact that your grandparents collected these and they have sat idle since 1986 is not relevant as to whether the coins are genuine or not - especially for a coin like a 1916-D which has been known to be scarce since about 1917 (scarcity breeds counterfeiting).
I doubt either of your 1916-D dimes are fake, but it is still a possibility.
Coin dealers are naturally skeptical as they see counterfeits all the time. People are constantly trying to sell their fakes to them. It may also be partly a ploy to get you to take less for them because the dealer has to "take a risk" that they are not genuine. A good coin dealer should be able to authenticate coins like a 1916-D dime easily.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5833 Posts |
The coins aren't high grades, so taking them out of the folders and put it back into a 2 x 2 flap wouldn't decrease the value, that way you will know whether there's a MM or not.
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Bedrock of the Community
Canada
10743 Posts |
Yup, I agree, not going to hurt them in that condition to pop them out.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
We'd sure like to see the reverse pics.  to the CCF! Edited by Coinfrog
03/26/2017 4:51 pm
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Replies: 13 / Views: 1,287 |
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Posted 03/25/2017 11:00 pm
