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Replies: 15 / Views: 2,422 |
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Valued Member
United States
295 Posts |
The auction results seem to suggest so: 1959-D Lincoln Cent, PCGS MS-67: https://www.greatcollections.com/Co...CGS-MS-67-RD - sold for $50. The exact same coin, but in MS-67+: https://www.greatcollections.com/Co...CGS-MS-67-RD - sold $2315 https://www.greatcollections.com/Co...CGS-MS-67-RD - sold $3432 https://www.greatcollections.com/Co...CGS-MS-67-RD - sold $3575 Now I love what the third-party grading services have done for this hobby overall, and I really enjoy the look of their slabs. In fact, I am trying to have all the coins in my type collection be in PCGS or NGC holders. But when a coin with a mintage of over a billion starts selling for crazy money just for the sake of an added designation - not even a grade point difference - then I can't help but wonder about the reasoning behind some of these purchases. Now if it were me looking for a 1959 Lincoln to fill the Memorial cent slot of my type collection (which I would like to do some time; having a first year of issue for this particular type would be neat), I'd just pick up a solid MS-66 for 20 dollars or so and call it a day. But to each his own, I suppose.
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
Top Pops are often a plus grade and in those cases where there are few of them big money will chase them for their registry sets.
A plus or a star is almost always deserved.
There are those who can't see the difference and it's fine to buy a more sensible grade. But if you really want super gems, that's often what you will find with a plus or star or both.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2815 Posts |
This is something that I'm going through at the moment with my Ike dollar registry set. I am trying to decide between getting a 1971-D in MS66 or MS66+. Here they are side by side for comparison:   Now, I can purchase the 66+ right now for $285, and the 66 I could get for as low as $70. That's a difference of $215 for a "+" designation. Is it worth it? Well, the main difference between these two coins, that I can tell, is that the 66+ has more luster and a deeper olive green tone. I think the luster alone gives it greater eye appeal. Perhaps this is why it received a plus grade. However, that dark spot behind Ike's ear and the nick in the first "1" of 1971 in the 66+ example is a bit distracting to me, but so are those two lines on Ike's head in the 66 example. I can't really tell what they are, but they look raised, not incuse. Roller lines? I think the "+" designation is seen by registry set collectors as not better than the numerical grade but closer to the NEXT numerical grade. It's a big deal to them. So, even in my own mind, the 66+ Ike is ALMOST a 67 rather than being slightly better than a 66. I do know that a 66+ CuNi Ike is the highest grade I'll ever be able to afford. At 67, they're out of my league.
Edited by Darth Morgan 02/03/2018 10:29 am
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
Going to the top of your purchase price, especially for a set coin, is almost always the right decision.
I'd much rather have 10 coins I love, rather than 50 coins I like, or 100 coins that are acceptable.
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Valued Member
 United States
295 Posts |
Quote: Now, I can purchase the 66+ right now for $285, and the 66 I could get for as low as $70. That's a difference of $215 for a "+" designation. Is it worth it? I think it all depends on what you focus on in your collection. I'm trying to compile a type set of all U.S. Mint issues from 1793 to the present, so I prefer to save the big money for the classic issues that are truly scarce. I'd have no trouble spending a few hundred on, say, an early Half Cent, but even $50 on a modern would feel expensive to me. But if you specialize in Ike dollars, then you may very well come to a different conclusion.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2815 Posts |
Quote: Going to the top of your purchase price, especially for a set coin, is almost always the right decision. I am in complete agreement. I really wish I could see the 66+ in-hand before I made a decision, even though I trust the photography of Great Collections. My gut tells me that this probably isn't the 66+ for my set, but I absolutely LOVE olive green toning on Ikes. At least the 66 has it too. Truth be told, I'll never be able to afford even getting into one of the top 5 spots, much less complete the entire major variety set. So, it's a constant balance between getting the highest grade possible for the most reasonable price. The slow process of upgrading the set is very enjoyable for me. Sometimes I leave it alone for a while, but I always come back looking for that next upgrade. Fun times.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: The exact same coin, but in MS-67+: They aren't the exact same coin, they're different coins they're just the same type of coin with the same date from the same mint. Quote: But when a coin with a mintage of over a billion starts selling for crazy money just for the sake of an added designation - not even a grade point difference - then I can't help but wonder about the reasoning behind some of these purchases. Forget the mintage when talking about top grades with moderns, the mintages of moderns are very misleading. Over 90 percent of what comes out of the mint wouldn't be good enough to have every graded a 67+. Then of the ones that were the vast majority of them have circulated or been destroyed over the years. Of the ones that weren't destroyed most people can't grade moderns well enough to know what to send in or have the opinion you do that they aren't worth it. Essentially the loss rate is huge with high grade moderns and ultra moderns. Are there more out there, maybe/probably but will they ever get sent in who knows. It's very difficult and requires some luck to come across those top grade moderns raw Quote: So, even in my own mind, the 66+ Ike is ALMOST a 67 rather than being slightly better than a 66. That's exactly what it is. The plus are the just missed the next grade up coins.
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Moderator
 United States
188213 Posts |
Quote: There are those who can't see the difference and it's fine to buy a more sensible grade. ::raises hand:: 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3402 Posts |
Oh...why don't they just designate it as 67-...perhaps it's because people wouldn't by a coin with a negative designation. How many MS grades do we have now because of TPGs? One of the best marketing ploys ever. The money come in...crack it out...the money comes in again..repeat the process.
KK
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Valued Member
 United States
295 Posts |
Quote: How many MS grades do we have now because of TPGs? One of the best marketing ploys ever. The money come in...crack it out...the money comes in again..repeat the process.
You raise a fair point. The grading services are useful for distinguishing a gem Mint State piece from one with lots of contact marks, but one wonders whether segmenting the grading scale into that many fine gradations is justified. Even the difference between, say, an MS-67 and a 68 is quite small. Throwing in extra grades between the cracks seems like excessive precision for something subjective at its core.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: but one wonders whether segmenting the grading scale into that many fine gradations is justified. It is. Lumping inferior coins together with clearly superior coins which is what used to happen penalizes the better coins as too many people just say whatever they're all the same.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8715 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3402 Posts |
Do TPGs have a count on how many bag marks are allowed and where they are can appear (field or image) for each grade? Nice to have that list so everyone can learn to grade like the big boys!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4469 Posts |
The plus grade was created by PCGS and NGC to compete against CAC and their stickers. The goal was to make CAC's stickers ineffective and not needed. It did not work as CAC simply started judging the plus graded coins and some sticker and others did not. The plus gradeed coin is NGC and PCDS opinion that the coin is high end of the grade. The bottom line is still the same, buy the coin and not the holder.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: Do TPGs have a count on how many bag marks are allowed and where they are can appear (field or image) for each grade? Nice to have that list so everyone can learn to grade like the big boys! They don't as grading is more complex than just counting marks. That said if you go to the PCGS YouTube page they do have several hours worth of different grading videos where they give a run down on some various topics and what they look for.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3402 Posts |
Thanks basbal21...I have a few days off coming up and I'll check out the PCGS site.
KK
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Replies: 15 / Views: 2,422 |
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