Condr101, thank you very much for your help. That was the missing information that I was lacking. The dies being polished explains the distance issue. Everything lines up correctly for N-3, and the error is faint, but present, so this is N-3 LDS, which is rare. What did not make sense to me was the distance of the date and stars. I thought they minted the Large Cents until the die was unusable. It never occurred to me that they might polish it from time to time.
What I have been doing is looking mostly at the date when attributing. I have found that the position of the date can help determine the Newcomb number most of the time for most dates even in lower grades. Most of my coins are in the grade similar to the one I posted in the photo above. I also use die breaks, lines, cracks, and Cuds when I can see them. I think it is still possible to collect by Newcomb number using mid-grade coins, and in some cases low grade coins. It is just harder, and the chances of making a mistake is greater. Also, I am pretty much done with me date set. I am only missing the high priced key dates that are out of my price range. So, this is still a fun way for me to collect and not spend more than $30 on a coin. I do not make enough money to be the next Dan Holmes, but I do not care. I like collecting Large Cents, they are a lot of fun to collect. And they are actually a lot rarer than most people realize especially the different Sheldon and Newcomb varieties. And it is possible to put a strong set together within a budget. For instance, I am nearly done with the Classic Heads. I am only missing three Sheldon Numbers. It also makes sense to me from the standpoint of how I have been collecting. My date set includes all varieties listed in Coins Magazine and the Red Book, plus any transitional over date errors meaning error such as 1811 (11 over 10). A lot of people do not realize there are other errors that connect dates in this way until you start looking into the Sheldon and Newcomb numbers. 1829 (9 over 8) comes to mind. I would have never known that one existed without reading the Large Cent Attribution guides, because it is not listed in the Red Book.
Thanks again! :)
What I have been doing is looking mostly at the date when attributing. I have found that the position of the date can help determine the Newcomb number most of the time for most dates even in lower grades. Most of my coins are in the grade similar to the one I posted in the photo above. I also use die breaks, lines, cracks, and Cuds when I can see them. I think it is still possible to collect by Newcomb number using mid-grade coins, and in some cases low grade coins. It is just harder, and the chances of making a mistake is greater. Also, I am pretty much done with me date set. I am only missing the high priced key dates that are out of my price range. So, this is still a fun way for me to collect and not spend more than $30 on a coin. I do not make enough money to be the next Dan Holmes, but I do not care. I like collecting Large Cents, they are a lot of fun to collect. And they are actually a lot rarer than most people realize especially the different Sheldon and Newcomb varieties. And it is possible to put a strong set together within a budget. For instance, I am nearly done with the Classic Heads. I am only missing three Sheldon Numbers. It also makes sense to me from the standpoint of how I have been collecting. My date set includes all varieties listed in Coins Magazine and the Red Book, plus any transitional over date errors meaning error such as 1811 (11 over 10). A lot of people do not realize there are other errors that connect dates in this way until you start looking into the Sheldon and Newcomb numbers. 1829 (9 over 8) comes to mind. I would have never known that one existed without reading the Large Cent Attribution guides, because it is not listed in the Red Book.
Thanks again! :)























