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 Replies: 8 / Views: 1,442 |
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Valued Member
United States
51 Posts |
Hi Folks, I got a strap of Series 1995 $2 bills from the bank. They are very crisp and there are long sequentially numbered runs under the strap. The first 5 numbers of the serial number are the same. Only the last 3 digits are different.
Would these bills be considered uncirculated? If not, what would be the accurate description? I may try to sell them so I want to be accurate. Thanks again, in advance for your help!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4637 Posts |
Uncirculated, to me, means without any folds .
Do you know to check for folds ?
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
They don't appear to have any folds in any of the bills. Not at the corners or elsewhere, as far as I see? Is there a special way to do this inspection?
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
You need an experienced grader to tell. Even the slightest evidence of handling can keep a note in the high AU range.
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Valued Member
United States
51 Posts |
OK. I'll find a grader at a local coin dealer? In the Red Book, these notes are listed for $5 each but, a guy on youtube said these same bills, untouched, were worth $20 - $30 each! I was going to be happy to just double my money! Is there any reason to believe that's possible or is he dreaming? |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1375 Posts |
Quote:
You need an experienced grader to tell. Even the slightest evidence of handling can keep a note in the high AU range.  Recently, I decided to "convert" my $1 SC ungraded collection to a PMG graded collection. So, I sent a few notes into PMG for grading. One of them was a 1935A $1 SC North Africa note that I purchased as uncirculated 35 years ago. I don't have the note back yet (it's on its way) but the PMG website says it's coming back graded as AU-55, without an EPQ designation  I always thought the note was uncirculated, but apparently the PMG graders detected a fold. Also, since it didn't get an EPQ designation, I suppose it may have been washed and ironed as well. I'll have to take a much closer look (tougher now that it's encapsulated) at it when I get it back  Like Coinfrog said, grading can be a tricky business  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4637 Posts |
I'm not sure what's worse, Red Book or a guy on YouTube. Paper Money Currency Guides are just that, guides. If someone offered me $20-$30 for every UNC 1995 $2 I own, I would be one happy collector. And, out of all the currency guides I've bought and used, Red Book might be the last one I would recommend to a collector. Maybe a lot has changed since 2006, but Red Book for US Currency didn't have the details I found in other guides. All collectibles Wax and Wane, coins and currency included. I've found that searching auction archives on RECENT SOLD items, similar to mine, give me a better informed outlook on the state of the hobby. If I find multiple completed auctions on a certain note, I throw out the highest and lowest and make an evaluation based on the average. If you collect strictly from circulation, disregard everything you just read. Be careful when dealing with B&M coin dealers when it comes to paper money. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
If you plan on getting serious about paper money, you must learn how to grade first. The best way is to find a mentor, perhaps through a coin club or your LCS. It's well worth the effort, but I advise against buying raw notes of any significant value until you've got the basics down.
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Valued Member
United States
51 Posts |
Yes, I see how important being able to grade is! I have begun to watch some tutorials on grading with Heritage Auction House and will find more. I'm not confident enough to purchase anything. I just want to learn what I have and determine if it's a keeper or not. Then, I may sell something and purchase something else. The exception is if I can find the mate to my New York bank star note that was printed at Fort Worth! Many thanks to everyone!
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Replies: 8 / Views: 1,442 |
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Posted 05/17/2018 12:14 pm
