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 Replies: 8 / Views: 2,299 |
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
1931 Posts |
I am hoping someone can answer me a couple of question. about 5 or 6 years ago I put together a set of canadian 5 cent pieces 1922-1960. I got almost the whole set except for one of the 1926 ones. my questions are these:
I put all the coins in with the date side showing so I am not sure of grades of any of them. Is it okay to take them out to figure out the grade and then put them back? What are the grading guidelines for the 5 cent pieces?
Also, when I did put in the 1926 one that I have I didnt know and still dont know how to tell the difference between near and far 6. near and far from what?
And lastly, to determine the value should I grade and put a value to each coin and total them to find the value or is there a way to value it because its a set?
any help would be really appreciated.
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Valued Member
Canada
187 Posts |
melissadawn,
You should consider purchasing an album. Albums have clear plastic on both sides which allows you to see both sides of the coin without removing it. If you want to sell the coins, you will need to know grades (or else you risk selling high grade coins at common prices). If you don't want to sell the coins, I recommend you don't remove them (except to put them into an album). Removing and reinserting coins can damage/scratch/wear down good coins into average coins; the less you handle them, the better their condition will be.
For grading help do a Google search for "Canadian coin grading", and click the first link (I'm not sure I'm allowed to post the site directly, but if you do this search you'll find what I'm talking about). It's got photos of coins in all grades for all obverse portraits.
The near and far refer to the point of the six and the maple leaf. On the "far 6", the point is far from the maple leaf, while on the "near 6" it almost touches it. J&M's online catalogue has a pretty good photo of the difference.
Finally, when it comes to determining value, a typical set will only sell for the value of the key date coins. I your case you'll get the value of the 1925 5 cent, plus a few dollars more. I would personally suggest that you remove any high grade coins (that aren't key dates), and sell them separately. It's easy to get a circulated grade to replace it in the album. I do recommend filling all the holes that are created when you remove high grade coins as people tend to pay more for complete sets (even if most coins are just common circulated ones). When you value your set, simply calculate the price of your key date, plus a few dollars. Add in the value of the high grade coins being sold separately, and subtract the cost of replacing them in the album.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5318 Posts |
Melissadawn, Perhaps this is the resource that Skelly mentions.This is a visual guide, but there's also a very detailed approach to grading George V coins by counting the number of "pearls" in the crown band. Here is another very good grading guide which pertains to Australian George V coins, but the grading rules for the obverse apply equally to Canadian coins for the same period. |
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Valued Member
Canada
187 Posts |
KurtS,
That is the site I was referring to. Good to know that I can link to it.
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Pillar of the Community
 Canada
1931 Posts |
wow thank you very much. all of that information was helpful and both of the listed sites are really great too. I might be spending a lot of time on those ones.
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New Member
Canada
17 Posts |
I am very new here and the advice and site given will be of great use to me in grading my coins. Thank you.
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Bedrock of the Community
Canada
10743 Posts |
Collector 57.... Welcome to the forum...  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5318 Posts |
Malissadawn, I sent you a PM on Canadian coin values. You should get an email, but it might go to your bulk box.
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Valued Member
Canada
351 Posts |
Hi Melissa, please be careful with which coin album you buy. If you live in a humid and hot area there are a few albums that will do your coins harm. ANY album with PVC in it is a BAD idea.. generally stay away from unisafe. I would recommend 2x2 flips. But be careful, because even those come in PVC.
the easiest way to tell is to look at the back of the flip, if the plastic covering the back of the flip if shiny then its PVC, or also PVC flips are harder to bend than regular flips..
hope this helped
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Replies: 8 / Views: 2,299 |
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Posted 07/03/2008 12:15 pm
