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Replies: 11 / Views: 1,857 |
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New Member
United States
27 Posts |
I'm interested in starting a collection of Sacagawea dollars. I like the 2000-2008 the most. My question is, should I buy graded coins or just get the ungraded stuff? I have already started buying some NGC and PCGS graded coins, but I'm beginning to think I'm going to over pay for the collection if I keep buying them this way. I'm finding full sets of BU 2000-2018 online for around $250. Is there any benefit to buying graded sacagawea's vs just buying one of these sets and being done with it?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4691 Posts |
If it were me, I would buy the ungraded coins from government issued sets. There are plenty to go around, no reason to pay for graded examples since most/all modern examples are going to be high end anyway. You probably know that these are not considered "investment" coins, but rather for hobbyists.
Edited by jimbucks 01/28/2019 12:39 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2023 Posts |
 -- The graded ones that are most likely to hold any real value are at the very top, and those don't seem worth it to me. I have a set of PR69s and a folder of merely nice examples pulled from sets. The folder is nicer to look at, the slabbed ones are pretty much in storage. I don't expect either to be worth any more than they are now, and I'm content with that. I'd rather spend a small amount for this collection than what a high-grade MS set would cost.
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Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
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New Member
 United States
27 Posts |
Thanks guys.. I think I'll just finish out buying the graded satin ones and sell the others to recoup some of the money to put towards a set.
Is there a specific set from 2000-2008 I should be looking for? I can't seem to find anything other than what people have put in folders.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
 I've never collected those. Hope you are happy with those.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1913 Posts |
I agree that it's best just to buy most of the uncirculated and proofs out of sets. Most dealers at shows don't care if you pick though sets to find the best examples. Doing it this way will save you a bunch of money versus certified coins, but you'll end up with a set that's really just as nice if you are particular like me. I put my coins in airtites. I like the airtites because they feel more coinish than slabs and protect the coins just as well. Quote: Is there a specific set from 2000-2008 I should be looking for? I can't seem to find anything other than what people have put in folders. This series is pretty straight forward, but there are a couple of coins that you're going to have to decide if you really want to include. The first is the 2000-P "Cheerios" dollar. The tail feathers on reverse are more finely detailed than those on other coins in the series. This coin is the key to the series if you include it. This coin will cost in the $5,000 ballpark if you decide to include it. Definitely buy this coin certified if you decide to include it as a one point difference in the grade equates to over $1,000 difference in price. http://www.smalldollars.com/dollar/page20c.htmlThe second is the 2000-P Goodacre presentation dollar. The designer was paid using these dollars and sent them off to be certified by IGC. This coin goes for a few hundred dollars. If you decide to include this coin, definitely buy it in the original IGC certification slab as that's how they all came originally. It's kind of like the original mint packaging, only it's not from the mint. http://www.smalldollars.com/dollar/page24.htmlIn my opinion, the Goodacre presentation dollar is a more significant variation than the Cheerios dollar. It's obvious when you glance at a Goodacre presentation dollar that it's different from other 2000-P dollars. You have to know exactly what you're looking at to distinguish a Cheerios dollar from the normal variety. In fact, the variety was unknown for several years. Finally, don't forget about the 2000-D dollar from the Millennium Coinage and Currency Set. It has a proof-like appearance like the Goodacre presentation dollar. It will cost you less than $50.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4691 Posts |
I would consider the cheerios and the Goodacre dollar to be varieties, and not main stream in the collecting community. On the other hand, don't forget about the 2018 reverse proof, which is a main stream coin. Good luck, and keep in mind that these are always available so you can be picky and shop prices.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
But the 2018 is an NA dollar not in the 2000 -2008 range of the Sac dollar that he is wanting to collect.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1613 Posts |
 Tough call. Since these magnesium alloy coins darken rather quickly, encapsulated by a third party grader is a wise choice. Raw, I'd put them in Air-tite holders. However, there are two reasons I'd stick with what you started. First, graded always sell/trade for more. If that is your intent in the future. Second, grading them yourself by either mentioned is at least $60 per coin. Buying in the secondary market eliminates this fee, plus what the coin cost, for the most part. On a final note, never ever touch a coin bare handed. Especially these or copper. Both turn extremely quickly. They end up looking like crime scene evidence.
ANA member - PAN Member - BCCS Member There are no problems only solutions - the late, great John Lennon
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New Member
 United States
27 Posts |
Wow that's an incredible amount of information. Thanks so much for all the feed back!
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New Member
United States
2 Posts |
Goodacre Presentation Type 1 is even rarer than the Cheerios and Goodacre Presentation Type 2. Only 126 found
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Replies: 11 / Views: 1,857 |
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