Quote: Quote: But they wouldn't allow a very important coin that I own. They didn't consider it correctly attributed.
What was it?
Look at my avatar. It's an 1856 FE in MS-62. It's in a PCGS slab and attributed Snow-3 (S-3) which is the only 1856 FE considered a business strike. NGC considers ALL 1856 FE's as proof.
Quote: Look at my avatar. It's an 1856 FE in MS-62. It's in a PCGS slab and attributed Snow-3 (S-3) which is the only 1856 FE considered a business strike. NGC considers ALL 1856 FE's as proof.
Ugh. That sucks. They have a button now where you can appeal to allow a coin to be accepted and they seem to be fairly flexible but...
Quote: certainly some nice coins there
That means a lot coming from you guys! I wish I had the budget to shop with you
For years I thought a Type Set was out of the question and out of reach for me. This guy (whom ever it is) motivated me to start, stay focused and complete it. To my surprise, I actually had many of the coins. I pulled the best from other sets and albums.
@Oriole, I'm not sure, but riddle me this. A MS64 1877-S Seated Half is 3125 pnts, and costs ~$1200-$1400. But a 1976 PF69DCAM Washington quarter which costs $10 is 3345 pnts. How does that make sense? Not to mention Proofs are heavily weighted, even moderns.
A MS67RD LWC, if you just want a generic example, costs around $80, and a PF67RD about half that. The MS67 is 774 points, and the PF67 the same amount. But what about a grade up? A 1958 Wheat cent in MS68 is worth over 3k and is worth only 849 points, while the PF68 from the same year costs $30 and is worth 3.8k points. It doesn't make sense. At all. Not one bit. People around my point total fall into 1 of 2 categories. Either people like myself who spend time and $ accumulating a high quality collection, or people who spend a fraction of the $ and score higher due to crazy scoring rules. Seeing how high ranks on the registry board have cash incentives, it makes my life harder to deal with those kinds of people.
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Posted 05/31/2020 6:32 pm
