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Replies: 9 / Views: 3,677 |
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Valued Member
United States
193 Posts |
Note: This is purely elemental chemistry, I have no idea if this is accepted within the numismatic community, but if dipping is accepted I should see no reason this would not be acceptable. Use discretion and advice from other more experienced collectors!
Comments PLEASE
When silver objects are exposed to pollutants normally found in air, they can gradually become dull and/or discolored. This darkening of silver is called tarnishing.
It occurs when silver undergoes a chemical reaction, classified as an oxidation reaction, with sulfur-containing substances. These substances may be airborne, but they can also be introduced through use, such as drinking wine from a silver goblet. The silver combines with sulfur and forms silver sulfide.
The reflective silver surface can be recovered in two ways: 1. Removing or dissolving the silver sulfide oxidation. 2. Chemically reducing the silver sulfide. The first method involves using a commercial product to remove the oxidation but it also removes some of the silver ("dipping"). The second option, to chemically reduce the silver sulfide to another element does not remove any silver, and it actually converts the black silver sulfide to another element.
Base metals have a hierarchy as to the ease of oxidation, and conversely an ease of reduction of oxidation. The following list of metals indicate the level of oxidation, moving left to right is the easiest to the most difficult to oxidize.
Aluminum -> Nickel -> Tin -> Lead -> Copper -> Silver -> Platinum -> Gold
This method will reduce Silver Sulfide to Aluminum Sulfide through a chemical reaction by having the Silver Sulfide react using Aluminum as the reducing agent. This will reduce silver sulfide to elemental silver while forming aluminum sulfide by transferring from silver to aluminum, freeing the silver metal and forming aluminum sulfide.
This type of reaction is called an electrochemical reaction because an electric current flows between the silver and aluminum.
When silver is in contact with aluminum this reaction occurs. Aluminum in pure water would not remove silver tarnish because there is a film of aluminum hydroxide that stops the oxidation reaction. Sodium bicarbonate will remove the surface film of aluminum hydroxide (by dissolving it) to expose fresh metallic aluminum, ready for oxidation.
Using aluminum foil, distilled water and Sodium Bicarbonate this reaction can be induced and accelerated.
Materials
* Gloves and safety glasses * Tarnished piece of silver (Sl) * Pan or dish, an aluminum pie plate is good * Aluminum foil (Al) * Distilled Water at 16/1 ratio to Sodium bicarbonate * Sodium bicarbonate, NaHCO3 (baking soda) at 1/16 the volume of water * Heat Source * Tongs (plastic or wood)
Note: the waste from this may be washed down the sink.
* Put on gloves and safety glasses * Place the aluminum foil in the pie plate * Place silver object on aluminum foil in plate making sure the contact is good * Boil enough water to cover the object * Turn off heat * Add baking soda to water, this will foam so make sure the water is in a large enough container * Mix solution * Pour the solution on the object
Almost immediately the tarnish will begin to disappear. If the silver is only lightly tarnished, all of the tarnish will disappear within several minutes. If object is highly tarnished repeat until you are satisfied.
Boiling water is used because the reaction is faster when the solution temperature is higher. The solution carries sulfur released from the silver to the aluminum, where a layer of aluminum sulfide is formed. The aluminum sulfide then hydrolyzes to form aluminum hydroxide and gaseous hydrogen sulfide.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2661 Posts |
What about the use of a ethanoic acid and Sodium chloride. aka Vinegar and Salt. I have heard of people whom call themselves collectors, but only want shinny coins, use this solution to clean them up.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3077 Posts |
might try this on my wife's ear rings. Will I need to flip them over to get both sides?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5611 Posts |
Welcome to the Forum. I should of payed more attention in chemistry class, I am simply in awe that "this solution"(no pun intended" has not been used in the numismatic community before, if it is safe to do so! I do not doubt your intellect or obvious understanding of simple chemistry, I would ask is this a answer to the silver tarnishing problem you have come up with, or is there a reference to such I could read myself? I know there are some very bright people residing here on this site, and I would look forward to their opinion in this matter.Thank-you for your information, good luck, Mike...  I
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
You'll find the first method, of course, to be generally disparaged in the numismatic community. We don't like dipping, in public.  Opinions concerning electrochemical reduction are mixed. Personally, understanding the process, I find it to be an acceptable way of "conserving" a coin. The end result is closer to the original, as minted. Nothing is removed; nothing changed except for "turning back time" with regard to corrosion. An interesting topic. I hope it generates discussion.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5318 Posts |
This would make for an interesting garage experiment. Of course, part of the silver patina could also be due to copper; how would that react?  I'll let the chemists add their expertise here, I agree with others about being super cautious--especially with coins of any numismatic value. 
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Valued Member
Canada
159 Posts |
This sounds fun, I'm going to try this on a very tarnished silver Quarter I found. I don't think the quarter is really worth anything, its just junk-silver.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19949 Posts |
Without going into great detail and correcting a few errors: 1) This reaction works 2) It will damage the surface of the coin 3) No, I've never tried it and I wouldn't on any coin of value In a nutshell, this is not a perfect world. Chemical reactions rarely happen perfectly...in fact, they mostly never go exactly as theorized. Sodium bicarbonate will create OH- ions and WILL dissociate silver (Ag, not SI) from the surface. Quote: there is a film of aluminum hydroxide Actually, it's aluminum oxide....couldn't resist that one. 
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12437 Posts |
 Electrochemical processes will degrade the original luster of a coin that was imparted to the coin at its striking. Any molecular alteration of the silver will also change the luster even in a "perfect chemical reaction" where you do not lose any silver and there is no chemical reaction that is 100% efficient. Since coinage silver is a 90/10 Ag-Cu alloy, you have copper chemistry in play as well. Precious metals used in jewelry, serviceware, and artworks are valued for craftsmanship and the metal itself whereas the value of a coin is highly dependent upon the original luster imparted from striking, a unique quality for coins. If done properly in very skilled hands, you could remove light toning without it being easily detectable but it is very easy for the pendulum to swing the other way and irreparably damage the coin. This method does work well for sterling flatware and I have seen it used for that purpose- it is usually preferred to silver polish since that can leave hairline scratches. Quote: What about the use of a ethanoic acid and Sodium chloride. aka Vinegar and Salt That would render the value of most silver coins to just melt 
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
1040 Posts |
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Replies: 9 / Views: 3,677 |
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