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Looking For Explanation Of Difference In Grading Of 2 SLQ's

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dzlxd7's Avatar
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 Posted 04/30/2022  09:01 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add dzlxd7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I saw these two on Great Collections and I can't tell why one coin is F12 and the other is only VG08.

https://www.greatcollections.com/Co...NGC-F-12-CAC

https://www.greatcollections.com/Co...GS-VG-08-CAC

IMHO, the VG08 looks to be a better strike and seems to have a fuller date.

I'm just wondering wht the difference might be that I am not seeing.
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Zurie's Avatar
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 Posted 04/30/2022  10:35 am  Show Profile   Check Zurie's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Zurie to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
To me the grades look about right. The dates look similar, but all the other devices look sharper on the F-12, including the lettering, the shield, and the stars. There's also more wear on the leg and head of the VG-08.
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Coinfrog's Avatar
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 Posted 04/30/2022  11:06 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Coinfrog to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
My thoughts exactly.



to the CCF!
Edited by Coinfrog
04/30/2022 11:49 am
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Slider23's Avatar
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 Posted 04/30/2022  11:40 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Slider23 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The VG08 belongs to a CCF member. see link http://goccf.com/t/406533
The VG08 is a strong example for grade and may be a little under graded. On the type 2 SLQ the fulness of the date is just part of the grading criteria that the TPG's use, and it can be a little confusing as the TPG's could grade a coin at VF 30 with a partial date and F12 with a full date. The strike also comes into play because on the type 2 some of the dates are not well struck.
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jacrispies's Avatar
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 Posted 04/30/2022  4:42 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jacrispies to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
with Zurie
Suffering from bust half fever.
Want to learn how to attribute early half dollars by die variety? Click Here: http://goccf.com/t/434955
Shoot me a PM if you are looking to sell bust halves.
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dzlxd7's Avatar
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 Posted 04/30/2022  5:46 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add dzlxd7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thank you, very much. I'm not experienced in grading so I thought I would ask. I'm always learning something new on here.
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fortcollins's Avatar
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 Posted 04/30/2022  6:24 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add fortcollins to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
SLQs are notoriously hard to grade. Some things that make them challenging:
Many of the dates are weakly struck.
Many of the die pairings are mismatched. The mints (especially the branch mints) frequently changed one worn die at a time, resulting in a match of an EDS die with a LMDS/LDS die.
Die polishing to address die clash marks. The abraded shields are common, especially in the branch mint coins.

Those conditions are not mutually exclusive. It is possible to have all three on one coin. And they do not change the technical grade of the coin.

It's important not to focus on any one pickup point in grading.
On higher grade coins, the abraded shields can look like F/VF coins, with most of the rivets missing, the inner shield merged with the outer shield, and the lines on the inner shield missing, while the rest of the coin looks like a high grade coin should. On mid-grade coins, the abraded shields look like heavy circulation wear. The general rule of thumb is that any shield that looks much more heavily worn than the rest of the coin should be disregarded in grading.
If one side looks much sharper than the other, it is due to mismatched dies, and net grading should overbalance the stronger side.
If the peripheral elements look strong and the central elements look weak (or more rarely the converse), it probably is due to the strike quality. The stronger elements of the strike should be considered more.

And with all that, a dozen graders who have handled thousands of these critters could very well be +/- a full point or more from each other on grade opinions. That why you may run into old timers like me who had boxes of 2x2 flips of the more common date coins marked "AG/G" or "G/VG" or "F/VF" or something like that.

One starter that may help is to examine lots of VF graded 1916-1924 SLQs at a coin show, and buy a few of the reasonably priced common date coins that show a range of VF coins. The more common date VFs should be in the $30-$40 ballpark. In VF, there is enough detail to see the impact of strike quality, die wear, and die polishing. There is also a decent range of numerical grades within VF. This can become a "go to" reference for considering the more expensive coins and how they may be seen by the TPGs.

If you find grading this series difficult, you are dead center where you should be. It's much more an art than a science.
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kenwright396's Avatar
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 Posted 05/01/2022  08:38 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add kenwright396 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
, excellent explanation.
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panzaldi's Avatar
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 Posted 05/01/2022  10:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add panzaldi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
another excellent explanation by fortcollins

also one was graded by NGC the other PCGS
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dzlxd7's Avatar
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 Posted 05/01/2022  3:20 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add dzlxd7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
@ fortcollins - That was awesome. Thank you, so much. Just trying to learn as much as I can.
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