Do Grading Cos. Prejudice Against Newbies?

I think they will treat you fairly even though you are new, they dont know how long you have been collecting just by the time you have ben a member of their collectors club. I dont think ANY Gold Buffalo has ben graded below a 69 and that is MS or PF so theer is a good chance you will have either pf69's or ms69 coins and may get lucky enough to get a ms70 or pf70 out of them, I personnaly myself cant tell the difference between the two. NGC seems to grade more ms and pf 70's than PCGS and I think that is simply a marketing ploy on PCGS's part to keep their population reports low for the "perfect coin" and make people think it is tougher to get a PF70 from them and make them thyink their coins are better when in fact probably 90% of all the Gold Buffalo's should be graded a PF70. I think NGC is more consistant on their grading that PCGS is, but PCGS has a higher resale value than NGC, that being said I must say I am a member of both NGC and PCGS's collectors clubs and have sent coins to each of them

I agree with Bryan. If I wanted highest grade I would send it to NGC because I also see more 70's from them. PCGS tends to bring the most money when it comes time to sell.

Dear dsking,

Thanks for asking. Unfortunately, there is not a noble reason for starting. It is a fluke. I happened to get a post card from the Mint. What caught my eye was that this is the inaugural year and the first time that the first pure gold coins were ever going to be issued by the US govt. Since I believe in the long run that when you get the opportunity to buy something that has never been issued before firsthand, you should do it. Some of these coins will hopefully end up in the hands of my grandchildren (yet to be born!) and I can tell them that way back when in 2006 when theese were first issued..... and some may be sold.
The reason for my grading question was that based on the little research that I did, I found that if the coins were properly graded by a reputable company then they would be easier to value and/or dispose of at some point without having to disagree with the buyer as to its condition and hence value in an area that I am not qualified. In a way, I view it as long term insurance.
I hope that this explanation is not disappointing but it is honest.
By the way, what is the difference/significance between a PF and a MS?
Thank you.

Thank you for answering MightyMike. I always find someone's fondness for a particular coin or reason for collecting as interesting. Yours is most certainly noble and will be fun telling the Grandchildren about "way back in 2006"! I agree!

If you will look at the left side of the Coin Community Home page you will find a glossary of terms. In there, look for Proof (PF) and Mint State (MS) and that should explain the differences to you. If not, we'll be glad to answer it for you on the forum.

Again, welcome and Thanks!

Hi, Bryan. I respect you a great deal for your contributions to this forum. I hope I didn't hit a nerve.

*edit/* I just read your note below--we're cool , I'm sorry for getting defensive. */edit*

You're right, the proof coins are made expressly for collectors. I'd offer that they are collector's versions of bullion coins. But I think that we're splitting hairs at that.

Since he's new to collecting and new to this forum, I was just trying to offer another viewpoint. I don't own one, but I recently held a proof buff, and I think the presentation in the OGP is just stunning. If it were me, I wouldn't put them in those relatively unattractive slabs. And you don't need to pay another $500 in grading fees, shipping, and insurance to have a TPG tell you that they are authentic, undoctored or super-high grade.

*edit/* I just read on another thread that there may be PVC in the Mint holders. While it boggles the mind, if true, you definitely want to change storage. */edit*

I certainly don't want to take any of the enthusiasm away from a guy who--as you point out--just spent a tidy sum on these coins. But if Mike has been listening to Coin Vault (frequently vilified in this space), he needs to know that putting his coins in PF70 slabs will not suddenly make them worth $1500.

*edit/* I just searched ebay and I stand corrected--many people WILL pay more than $1500 for a PF70 specimen. */edit*

To add to the discussion of whether to slab or not to slab must be the argument that encapsulation of a high grade coin serves to preserve and protect it almost indefinitely. A raw coin stored in almost any holder or container is much more susceptible to damage, either by the environment (airborne contaminants although this is not usually a factor for gold), accidental mishandling, contact marks with other coins or with temporary holders (e.g., 2x2 flips, do-it-yourself slabs, coin holders), or as mentioned, possible PVC or other contaminants in original holders or packaging. Modern encapsulations by top third party grading services (i.e., PCGS, ANACS, and NGC) pretty much guarantee that the coins will be professionally protected against the ravages of time and humans.

For an investment of this magnitude, it is a relatively small additional investment to have the coins encapsulated. In the life of a coin, one tiny mishap (a "whoops") along the way can significantly reduce or eliminate any present or potential gain in value.

Fred