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Restoring Dateless Buffalos With Muriatic Acid

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Author Previous TopicReplies: 10 / Views: 3,807Next Topic  
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SDcoinguy's Avatar
United States
2424 Posts
 Posted 08/16/2010  4:06 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add SDcoinguy to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
OkOk..

i know what you are all thinking...

ok, well maybe I dont, but some of you have voiced concerns aboutacid and other methods for getting results like we see from weerdsteve and his buffalo reincarnations


home depot has poll muriatic acid. its 14.5% diluted already. Still potent stuff that requires PPE, gloves, goggles, ventilation, etc.

so I have left a dozen or more buffs sit in a 2 gallon bucket over the weekend, and some longer and I am VERY pleased with the results.

i will post some pictures later, but I have found some great ones!

a lot of 16-d's, 15-d,s, 17-d,s, 19-d,s, 18-d,s some very nice 14-d's and s's.. and some type 2 1913-d's and s's!

the acid makes it look almost like new, considering the acid treatment. but it doesn't have a grainy look to it like I expected. the dates pop really nice along with other details as well!

i plan on trying some of weerdsteve's special sauce in the future. but in the meantime I have filled almost every hole in my buffalo dansco
Edited by SDcoinguy
08/16/2010 4:08 pm
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Waredu's Avatar
United States
397 Posts
 Posted 08/16/2010  4:17 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Waredu to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I can't wait to see the pics.
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arthrene's Avatar
United States
1713 Posts
 Posted 08/16/2010  5:58 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add arthrene to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Edited by arthrene
08/16/2010 5:58 pm
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specksynder's Avatar
United States
1080 Posts
 Posted 08/16/2010  7:22 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add specksynder to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
whoa, you just soaked them in the muriatic acid? I figured you'd need close monitoring or careful application/wash of the acid... That's easy enough to be veeeeeery tempting!
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SDcoinguy's Avatar
United States
2424 Posts
 Posted 08/16/2010  11:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SDcoinguy to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
ok, I spent some time tonight takeing picture of just the good ones that have soaked the longest. the last pic in the album is a 15-d and looks grey. that is because it only spent a day or so in the solution and it had soaked in the nic-a-date solution. as weerdsteve had noted in a nother post about a blackish layer forming when soaking in nic-a-date.

anyway.. most of the coins turned out great. in my opinion. its almost a blast whitish color. the reverse sides did not get this way as they were face down and did not receive the same amount of attention the obverse side got.

some of the coins, not shown here, had nic-a-date applied to just the date area with a q-tip.. I also began soaking these as well as to give it a more uniform look. as I mentioned, I was very happy with some finds. especially the 1913-D and 13-s type2.

here is a link to my picasa google web album.. ENJOY and please leave me some feedback on what you think about these coins

http://picasaweb.google.com/Chad.De...t=directlink



Edited by SDcoinguy
08/17/2010 08:52 am
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SHAFTA9a's Avatar
Canada
10743 Posts
 Posted 08/17/2010  09:41 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SHAFTA9a to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I would say, they came out really nice.

Good job.
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pls's Avatar
United States
1729 Posts
 Posted 08/17/2010  09:47 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add pls to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm giving a worn-almost-smooth Shield nickel a soak in 28% acetic acid, which is used, diluted, as photographic stop bath. I figured I had nothing to lose. So far, no date popping up after an overnight soak.
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Fatboy's Avatar
United States
313 Posts
 Posted 08/17/2010  10:40 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Fatboy to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
PLS
I tried the same stuff I went 2oz.per gal.4oz.per&5oz per I had no luck with it.
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nohope587's Avatar
United States
5953 Posts
 Posted 08/17/2010  11:07 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nohope587 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Anyone tried using caned drinks such as coke?
It does a number on my stainless steel cooker tops.
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BadThad's Avatar
United States
19931 Posts
 Posted 08/17/2010  11:31 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Somebody listened to the chemist. LOL

Now, if you want really good and fast results, try some nitric acid.
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pls's Avatar
United States
1729 Posts
 Posted 08/18/2010  12:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add pls to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Fatboy, I didn't dilute the 28% acetic acid; I used it full-strength and dipped the entire coin. Smelly stuff, by the way. This Shield nickel would probably grade AG-1, so as I stated earlier, I figured I had absolutely nothing to lose. At the worst, now, I have a very clean but well-worn Shield nickel.

After a soak of some 56 hours or so, the "United States of America" on the obverse popped out as did a few stars. The "5" looked hammered, and only the bottom of it was recognizable. On the reverse, the vertical stripes in the shield were visible, but only two or three letters in "In God We Trust" showed up. As for the date ... only the last numeral appeared, and very faintly. It most likely is a "9". A rare 1879? I'll never know, as a hard ding to the 2nd and 3rd numerals has completely wiped them out. And of course I already have an 1869, so it's not even a hole-filler for me.

It was an interesting experiment, even if I destroyed the top layer of a coin. At least I know that 28% acetic acid will work on nickel coins as well as anything else described here, and it's not nearly as dangerous as muriatic acid (which I've used before when etching a concrete floor before coloring it).

Edit to add: I don't know what I was looking at before, but the third digit is definitely an "8". Enough of the first digit, the "1", is visible to establish the exact location of the date, which is tiny on this coin. The area of the fourth digit appears almost to be scraped, although there may be a bit of raised area to indicate that what's there is a "2".
Edited by pls
08/18/2010 1:05 pm
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