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Edited Or Not?

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lukkyseven's Avatar
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880 Posts
 Posted 11/27/2010  4:45 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add lukkyseven to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Which picture do you think looks better? Unedited is top, edited is bottom.

Edited-Or-Not?
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lukkyseven's Avatar
United States
880 Posts
 Posted 11/27/2010  4:46 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lukkyseven to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
and now that I see them here... you really can't tell a big difference. You can on my computer for some reason...
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Tim Stroud's Avatar
United States
2661 Posts
 Posted 11/27/2010  5:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Tim Stroud to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I was looking at these things for 4 or 5 minutes then I scrolled down and saw your second post. I can't tell a difference.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 11/27/2010  6:48 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Edited-Or-Not?

Guess that 18-55 ain't so bad after all, eh? I did a couple of things to it in the Gimp, to help me get a feel for what's missing. The result is above, and I'm not satisfied with it yet either.

You *might* be against the 18-55's upper limit in terms of resolution and sharpness. Or you might have more to capture. I think the latter is true. I'm going to critique this picture very harshly, because it shows that you and your camera are both capable of professional results. Just keep in mind that you're already doing better than 90% of everyone who's ever tried to shoot a coin, and your camera is better than 90% of the cameras out there. But you can do better.

The image isn't nearly sharp enough, especially if it's going to be that big. Cut the size in half, and with nothing else changed it'll be unbelievably sharp. But then you'd be just an *ordinary* shooter.

I don't think the color is quite right. That's typical of Canon - I'm guessing you were using either Auto or Tungsten settings - and you might want to adjust to remove some yellow and red in postprocessing. I removed 30% of each in the Gimp, but then I lowered the Levels, which tended to emphasize what was left so it looks like a wash, color-wise. But, lower Levels and a little more Contrast are a quick and dirty way of fixing the usual problems.

At this skill level, we make things straight. Yes, I know it's anal, but get Monticello horizontal.

Your choice of lighting angle is up to the task. Nickel, along with silver, is prone to bright spots; we can maybe work on that later.

Your original pic included EXIF data, so I'm able to see your camera settings. Here's what I'd do, understanding that the sole goal here is to make the shots sharper:

First, you're going to need more light. The things you've had to do to keep a clear image with the available light are compromising your shot's sharpness.

You're at ISO1600. That needs to lower drastically; it's high enough to introduce noise into the picture. Set it at ISO400. A T2i can produce essentially noiseless pics at that ISO.

Current aperture is f/7. Tighten that up to f/12. It will increase your depth of field, thereby recovering whatever sharpness you're losing because the lens can't capture the whole depth of what it's seeing. This will cost you even more perceived light.

Are you using a delayed shutter? I ask because if you actuated those pics by hand, that's the cause of the sharpness problem. Furthermore, unless you throw a whole lot more light on the problem we're going to have to use exposures of 1/15 or so, and that will most definitely induce shake if you do it by hand.

Another possibility it to increase the distance from camera-coin. You might be just_a_touch too close for the lens; if you do this, raise the camera an inch at a time.

OK. I think you can use the available light by doing ISO800, f/10 and 1/15 sec. Were it up to me, I'd rather see lower ISO, higher (numerically) aperture, and exposures of at least 1/125, but that would require a lot more light.
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lukkyseven's Avatar
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880 Posts
 Posted 11/27/2010  6:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lukkyseven to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Light was definitely the issue. If I didn't know you knew what you were talking about I would now!

I'm in the process of building a light box:
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/0...-studio.html
and I think that's going to help a ton. After I get that built (on vacation for a week) I'll probably attempt some more shots. I'm also in the process of buying a cheap tripod/stand. Wife has approved it :).

Monticello is a pet peeve huh? Haha! I hate you for this. I will now be paying attention to that kind of stuff for the rest of my life!

What would you say the ideal size to shrink something down to is? 800x600? I thought mine was a bit big, but I didn't shrink it other than the cropping.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 11/27/2010  7:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
800x800 is a very nice compromise between size and detail. That's the size I usually post here, even though my images are 2000px in diameter. I've always felt that the bare minimum of "anything but the coin" in a posted pic is a distraction.

You can correct rotation very easily in postprocessing. Go ahead and hate me.

The lightbox will definitely help, but it will be at the cost of luster. You need direct light to accurately show luster. Keep that in mind.
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lukkyseven's Avatar
United States
880 Posts
 Posted 11/27/2010  8:19 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lukkyseven to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
So if I'm taking a picture to show the coin off it would be better to show direct light. But for purposes of grading (on here for example) you think the light box would be better?
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lukkyseven's Avatar
United States
880 Posts
 Posted 11/27/2010  8:25 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lukkyseven to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I will also say that I think I did a better job capturing the obverse of the coin. You can see it on another post here in the forums (please grade too ;))

https://goccf.com/t/75595
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 11/27/2010  8:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
But for purposes of grading (on here for example) you think the light box would be better?


Depending on how well the box works, you are almost certainly correct. You'll get more accurate representation of details - it's very difficult not to get a little washout when a coin is lit well enough to accurately show luster, and those washed-out areas might just mask a detail relevant to grade, especially in upper grades.

Part and parcel of grading coins online, from photographs, is being aware of the tradeoffs involved. As a result, I first "Details" grade every coin I see here, without considering luster. Only after that is done do I address surface originality and luster, both of which are very hard to get right with a digital camera.
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