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 Replies: 12 / Views: 1,321 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1256 Posts |
I'm undecided, red or brown?
If I could get 1931 PDS in AU/BU Red, that should set the tone for the decade, right? There are a couple other harder cents from the 30's and all would have to match but it seems fairly doable.
at the same time...
I don't dislike the browns and a XF set of 1930s brown would be very nice. I'm partly there.
What are ya'll doing?
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Not long ago no one thought to much at all for all the 30's to be difficult to find in MS grades but those days are fading fast. My suggestion is if you can accumulate all the 30's in MS grades and in Red's, go for it before it's to late.
I used to see such coins for really low prices not to long ago but lately those are just fading away. Remember the amount of coin collectors is growing almost daily so get what you can while you can.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
689 Posts |
my is hopefully going to continue like this
Key dates - Whatever I can aford
Teens - High VF - AU Brown
20s - XF - MS60 Brown
30s - AU - High MS Brown - Red Brown
40s - MS63+ Red
50s - MS64+ Red
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2150 Posts |
Quote:
Not long ago no one thought to much at all for all the 30's to be difficult to find in MS grades but those days are fading fast. My suggestion is if you can accumulate all the 30's in MS grades and in Red's, go for it before it's to late.
I used to see such coins for really low prices not to long ago but lately those are just fading away. Remember the amount of coin collectors is growing almost daily so get what you can while you can.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
958 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
I am working on MS Red or MS Red/Brown with a lot of red going back until 1928, then from 1909-1927 I am going to shoot for MS Red Brown or the occasional high AU with some mint red luster perhaps. True Red coins just become outrageously expensive as you work your way back.
I am having a hard time finding a 31-D for a good price - that's the last one I need in the 30's (my pictures are a little out of date).
The 20's and teen branch mints are also going to be tough and expensive so things are going to have to slow down as I work my way back - or I need to get a whole lot richer!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7629 Posts |
Usually...USUALLY... The Lincoln Cent set is broken into three sections...early wheats (1909-1933), late wheats - also known as the 'short set' (1934-1958), and the memorials. Most people I have coached through this process have collected the early set in anything from VF-AU brown, the short set in anything from MS63RD to MS66RD, and the memorials in MS65RD+. This is the general tone. One of your problems in separating these by decade alone is that you have a number of difficult coins in the early 30s that are going to set the tone for what you get in the far less expensive 1934-1939 coins (if you're trying to match your set - which I would highly recommend). The problem with even graduating higher and higher grades from 1930-1933 produces the same effect - coins that can be quite expensive. Your 1930 coins won't be all that bad at $20-$50 each. Your 1931D can run over $100 to find one that would match a BU set. The 1931S is running north of $200 now. The 1932-1933 coins are each going to cost $50 or more...that's a little over $500 (versus $200 for nice AU coins) to start the BU set at 1930 instead of 1934. Just my thoughts...of course you can do it and enjoy it any way you want. |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1256 Posts |
Thanks all.
The 34 split is going to bug the stew out of me. But it's just like you said, CD... Going high on the 31S is a set up for high prices on the other early 30's.
I'm going to wait until I have the 1931 PDS to decide. I'm looking at an XF set for $160 online but no pictures. We don't have many local shops but I'll check those first.
The 30's sure do make you put the brakes on :)
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7629 Posts |
Plan of action:
1. Figure a budget.
2. Work out what you can afford for a MATCHING set on that budget.
3. Buy coins that ONLY work for your set.
4. Stick to the budget until done.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19930 Posts |
Chuck offers sage advice.
Nonetheless, if you stick with your plan, definately go all full red MS 1930's. Why bother with anything else? One warning though, you're going to have a VERY difficult time with the 31-D....yea, it's not the 31-S that's tough...it's the D. Finding a nice, red, uncleaned 31-D is a very tough challenge unless you're willing to spend big bucks (more than the 31-S). Toss out the book values too. When you finally find a nice raw one, the seller is going to want some $$$ if they know what they have. It's an incredibly difficult coin to find.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1256 Posts |
Thanks again. Quote:
Why bother with anything else? I guess the same reason I don't do the teens in red. Can't sell rocks fast enough. I try to save up my rock money but then I see something shiney.  Went by the shop yesterday. No 31S in stock of any grade.  They had two 31D's both labeled VG. I didn't want them so I didn't price them. I fully agree on matching sets. It even bugs me that my 40 and 50 BU Reds don't match! From strawberry blonds to fiery redheads, copper turns out in an amazing array of colors! I'll work that out later. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19930 Posts |
I say "why bother" because most of the 30's are very affordable. If you're working on a kickarse collection, having the lower priced coins in red is a must in my books.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1256 Posts |
I can't disagree. Reds are awesome.
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Replies: 12 / Views: 1,321 |
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Posted 02/07/2011 10:51 pm
