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 Replies: 15 / Views: 9,769 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2936 Posts |
I'm suffering from the lack of ability to accurately depict the beauty of my coins because I have no clue on the proper lighting to use in their photography. Many of you have wonderful photos of your coins in all their blazing glory and frankly, mine don't come close. Could you provide me guidance on what to purchase to illuminate the coins for photos? Brand/model etc. would be especially helpful. Thanks! Paleoguy
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Lighting is only one factor in the bigger picture (pun intended).  Generally speaking, physically-smaller and more direct light sources tend to show luster better than larger and diffuse lighting. However, differing coins answer better to differing lighting. Circulated coinage is easier to light than highly lustrous Mint State coinage. Exceptions exist to all of this. Cameras differ, as well; some do a better job of color correction than others. A setup which works for a dSLR with a dedicated macro lens might be inappropriate for a point-and-shoot. I wish there were an easy answer to your question, but there isn't. Your best bet is to post images and camera information in this thread, and we can work on tweaking your setup to best effect. |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2936 Posts |
Thanks for the input SD. I have a fairly good digital that takes up to 12 megapixel photos. Here's my dilema.... I have a CFL bulb that puts out a warm light and several LED lights that put out bright white. I can't seem to come up with the proper combo to demonstrate mint glow and toning on coins. It's especially difficult on the "white" coins like silver and nickel. Copper coins tend to come out much better. This help?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2120 Posts |
Definitely get your self some "full spectrum" bulbs. they sell them at home depot. sometimes called 10k color bulbs. I've had the best pictures with those, in most cases.
Everything SD said I agree with.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
14454 Posts |
I have seen those ring lights made for the camera but do not know anyone that has tried them and said how they work but have thought about trying one myself to try it out
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Valued Member
United States
262 Posts |
When thinking of lighting you have to think of a couple different factors:
Color
Beam Spread
Wattage
Distance
And now with the introduction of so many different types of lighting (incandescent,flourescent,xenon,LED,OLED,) it also depends on the type of light or photon produced. Not all photons are created equal even in the same kelvin temperature.
For photography, incandescent is and always will be the premier grade of choice. Even today you'll see incandescents primarily used in places such as museums, art galleries and so on.
The primary reason for this is because of the crisp 2700K color produced.
In relation to photography, the same reasoning applies.While I'm new to photography and especially new to coin photgraphy, I can tell you that different lighting is required for different coins. The obvious reasons being to compensate for the luster, metallic compound and size.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4037 Posts |
Paleoguy45...I hate to say it, but "this thread is useless without pictures". Please post a photo you've taken so we can see what's going on with your technique. Are you shooting slabbed or raw coins?
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
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Pillar of the Community
Netherlands
561 Posts |
I get the best result outside with sun/day light.. (without using the flash)
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4037 Posts |
I've tried literally all types of lights I know of (incandescents, halogens, verilux, CFL, EKE discrete and continuous ringlights, LED ringlights, spotlights of various flavors, multicolor and white LEDs, OTTlights, krypton flashlights, xenon flashlights, led flashlights, direct and diffuse natural daylight, etc etc) as well as most of the application techniques (direct, diffuse, reflected off white, reflected off mirror or foil, macro tent, milk jug, ping pong ball, etc etc) as well as multiple sources of different types and techniques. Every technique has advantages and disadvantages, and SuperDave gave a good explanation that different coins require different lighting to look their best. This is especially true for slabbed vs raw. And on top of it all, virtually all of the professional photos you see online have been extensively post-processed. Most of us amateurs do very little post beyond minor contrast/brightness and possibly sharpness.
In the end, I've settled on white LEDs as my preferred source. They are cool-running and efficient, and give a good spectrum that (for me anyway) seems easily MWB. They also are near pinpoint sources, so are flexible with combinations of direct, diffused, and reflected to give an overall look that is highly customizable.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
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Valued Member
United States
223 Posts |
For me I found the best light for viewing under magnification is natural day light.
I do most outside if I can. Also my best photographs (all types) are in natural light.
Maybe give that a try. Pretty much what Sander said. Personally I really dig scanners for coins..
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New Member
United States
13 Posts |
I struggle with this as well. I have one of the best cammaras a Canon G-12 it seems to shoot everything fine till you put a coin in front of it. Still working on the whole lighting thing.  |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
14454 Posts |
Quote:
I have one of the best cammaras a Canon G-12 I am, not familiar with this particular camera but I have a T1i and know it takes a dedicated lens to get better pictures. I have had quite a few P&S cameras that do everything day to day very well but do nothing when taking pictures of coins, I also have 1 P7S that does coins very well but does not allot of anything else worth a hoot |
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Valued Member
273 Posts |
And on top of it all, virtually all of the professional photos you see online have been extensively post-processed. Most of us amateurs do very little post beyond minor contrast/brightness and possibly sharpness.
(as rmpsrmps sez, above) That means spendy software, lotsa practice.
I think there is no way around the need to invest buck$$$ in specialized equipment and softwear.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
880 Posts |
Look up Photoscape. It's not spendy at all ;) You'll be pleasantly surprised for the uses it provides for amateurs (myself included) to post process.
Again, you're welcome :). In all seriousness though, someone on this site directed me to it a while back so I'm just passing on the info.
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New Member
United States
13 Posts |
Thanks Byran I don't even think the lence comes off this thing. It seems some have a knack for it.
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Quote:
Thanks Byran I don't even think the lence comes off this thing. It seems some have a knack for it.
Nope. The G12 has a non-removable lens. It's a truly great camera, one of only a very few I would own if I could only own one camera, but it may or may not be a good coin/macro camera. Never played with a G-series, so I don't know. And I wouldn't ever pay for postprocessing software, in a world which offers the Gimp. |
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Replies: 15 / Views: 9,769 |
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Posted 06/29/2011 12:40 pm
