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Mercury Dimes - Are These Full Bands?

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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
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 Posted 08/20/2011  7:54 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Alright, here's a quiz for you. Here are photos cropped from the reverse of two TPG graded Mercury dimes. Which is full bands? Both? Neither? If you recognize one or both of them, please don't spoil the quiz for any other members.

Mercury-Dimes---Are-These-Full-Bands? Mercury-Dimes---Are-These-Full-Bands?
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master6238's Avatar
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178 Posts
 Posted 08/20/2011  8:17 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add master6238 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I say the one on the right is FSB
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Canadian-Banknotes's Avatar
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 Posted 08/20/2011  8:25 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Canadian-Banknotes to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I don't know much about Mercury dimes, but I agree with master6238.
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macmercury's Avatar
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5832 Posts
 Posted 08/20/2011  8:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add macmercury to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Technically the one on the left has a stronger strike, less hits on the fasce.
The one on the right almost looked like tooled to resemble a fb.
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atlashealth's Avatar
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 Posted 08/20/2011  9:00 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add atlashealth to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
the cross bands touch somewhat on the left, and not an the right(FSB)
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 08/20/2011  9:12 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If I were the one grading, I'd call them both FSB. The left-hand one might be subject to date-specific knowledge; if the date is known for weak strikes, I'd be more likely to call it FSB that if it were a strongly-struck issue.

That one also has a really cool die scratch through the D.
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CoinsKelly's Avatar
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 Posted 08/20/2011  11:47 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinsKelly to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I would say the one on the left no, the one on the right yes
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D0ubl3Eagle's Avatar
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 Posted 08/21/2011  01:39 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add D0ubl3Eagle to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I would probably only call the one on the right FSB but as SD had noted, the TPG may have also said the one on the left is FSB if it's from a weakly struck issue.
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southsav's Avatar
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 Posted 08/21/2011  09:08 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add southsav to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Not being a dime guy, I'll give it a whirl.

I would say both also and depending on the coin year and any particulars for that year strike.
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numismaniac's Avatar
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 Posted 08/21/2011  09:22 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add numismaniac to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I will also say both are fsb.
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upstate's Avatar
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 Posted 08/21/2011  09:38 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add upstate to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I agree, both full bands.
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 Posted 08/21/2011  12:00 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jmkendall to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I would be tempted to got fsb with both of them. Though the one on the right is iffy at best. I am also guessing that the tgp(s) did not grade them as fsb.
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
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 Posted 08/21/2011  2:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Your answers are very interesting! My own answer would be that the one on the left is a nice strike, but not quite full bands. The one on the right is full bands, but a later die state.

In fact, the white one on the left is a 1945 graded PCGS MS-66 FB, and it went at auction for $17,250. The toned one at the right is a 1945-D graded NGC MS-66 but with no FB designation, owned by me and purchased at an entirely reasonable price. In hand, it is a very nice looking coin and clearly full bands (it's the one I posted a little while back on the grading forum).

1945 is a date known for really poor strikes, and 1945-D and other later date Denver Mercury dimes are known for really nice strikes. I searched on heritage for full-band 1945 dimes, just to see what such a notorious rarity really looks like and goes for. I was blown away that borderline cases like this went for so many thousands of dollars. There are some very similar coins (maybe 95% separated bands) that did not earn the FB designation and went for the same price as any common, poorly-struck 1945 dime. It's a very nice looking dime (it also has a neat die clash), I think MS-66 is conservative even, but $17k is completely bananas!

On the other side, I am not going to complain about two missing letters on a slab. It just meant that I got a better price on my coin than I would have otherwise.

A common piece of advice I've seen and tried to abide by since I started collecting is "buy the coin, not the slab". I've looked at a lot of uncirculated Mercury dimes lately, raw and slabbed, and have really started to understand the truth in that advice. It's particularly important given that so many auctions on ebay and whatnot only have pictures of the slabs, or very poor pictures of the coins.

Even if you could rely on the technical grades as accurate, you can't get a good idea of just how nice a coin is without getting a really good look at the coin itself. A coin could have a high technical grade, but be flat and lifeless. It could have a lower grade, but a really nice strike. It could have a poor strike from a worn die but lots of luster and eye-appeal.

I thought these two coins were a good example of how important that advice is.
Edited by CaptainFwiffo
08/21/2011 2:56 pm
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CoinsKelly's Avatar
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3453 Posts
 Posted 08/22/2011  09:13 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinsKelly to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Nicely put - I totally agree with buy the coin and not the slab. I personally view the TPG's as authentication services and use their grading recommendation as a guide only. Thanks for the great exercise.
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