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Replies: 42 / Views: 6,212 |
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Valued Member
United States
223 Posts |
The coin itself does look authentic and its in pretty good condition. Not sure about the cleaning since the picture is not clear enough. But even if it is cleaned its still a nice coin.
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Valued Member
 United States
67 Posts |
This is all very helpful. You are right about keeping things nice with the dealer until it is verified. It's kinda like insulting the cook before you get your food. I took some pretty good quality pics and sent them to The Black Cabinet, as was suggested. It's not the best way to get a coin authenticated, but it is free and will add more information. I always say, more is better.
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Valued Member
 United States
67 Posts |
I submitted pics to The Black Cabinet and got a very quick response. Here is what they had to say; Thanks for emailing in. :-) Where I cannot certify that it is inauthentic unless it's sent in for me to physically examine (and I could have it back to you a few days after it arrives) from these pictures, this coin is very likely to be counterfeit. The mint mark -- although it's very similar -- when it is lined up it in overlay does not match any of the four known mint mark locations for the 1909-S VDB. It is about one serif's width south of where it should be. Also, with the level of detail preserved on the reverse, the VDB shouldn't be that shallow and hard to make out. What may be more easily telling I think (even though I am not able to completely see it in the photographs) is there also appear to be casting artifacts on this piece. There is a prominent dot to the left of 1909, and several "pimples" on Lincoln's brow. These are not known die markers for 1909-S VDBs, but are very common on cast fakes (they represent small chinks in the casting medium that were filled in by molten metal). Again, if I had this physically in front of me I could confirm it under the microscope in a matter of moments. All in all, from what I can see in these pictures, I'd say that this has a ~80-90% chance of being a fake (albeit a good one), which is a high enough probability that recouping what you paid for it and putting that towards a certified specimen is probably the most prudent route to take. My honest opinion is that (provided my observations are correct) whoever manufactured this, cherry-picked a 1909-S obverse that had a convincing mint mark location and then used a regular 1909 VDB reverse as the two sides of the mold. This would explain both why the details are flat with "zits" and why the VDB is weak (because casting mediums can only be made so fine). They probably even melted down contemporary pennies to get the alloy correct, which is trivial. Thanks, Steve for suggesting this service. This saved me a lot of shipping and insurance costs. 
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Quote: In layman's terms, that means it doesn't matter if you find out it's fake in 29 days, or 29 years, he doesn't have the legal right to sell a counterfeit or altered coin, and has to refund your money. The only real problem here is once purchased and in his possesion, how could he ever prove that that is the one he purchased. Any dealer could simply say the fake your showing me is not the same coin I sold you. Now, as sort of stated it is possibly a fake, attempting to return it to the seller may prove to be rather a problem. If in a 2x2 or any easily changable container, the dealer could simply say, that is not the coin I sold you and then what? Would be nice to know the outcome of this situation. Quote: Seller claims a PCI slab and, "the slab itself was "nasty" with scrapes, scratches and gummy residue all over it." His grade was VF30, Wonder what the seller would say if you asked for that original slab.
Edited by just carl 04/01/2012 07:51 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1796 Posts |
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Valued Member
 United States
67 Posts |
I asked what company slabbed the coin after I got it in a 2X2 flip. That is when he told me the story. Coins can be identified by specific markings on the coin, the least of which are those waives on the reverse. I have taken many pics myself and then there are the original pics from the auction itself (yes, it was an ebay purchase). Up to this point, I have no beef with the seller. He may have gotten a bad coin and simply tried to flip it without knowing. He has promised a full refund. At this point I would buy from him again. The whole experience will cost me around $25.00 (shipping back to the seller). Not too bad a lesson when we are talking about an original purchase price of $750.00. I appreciate all the help you folks gave me on this lil project. I was convinced that it was authentic. Jerry
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19949 Posts |
The pictures are so tiny, it's hard to say with 100% confidence if it's authentic or not. One important thing nobody mentioned so far is the die chip in the upper loop of the MM.....all SVDB's have this....impossible to tell from the pictures. I've seen a total of one fake ever attempt to copy that and it was a joke of a failure.
Get in the car and go visit a couple of coin dealers. Most of them are very well versed in the proper ID of these. It's the most faked coin I know of and it's pretty easy to spot a fake in person.
Personally, for the OP, I'd send it back. I've said it 1000 times and I'll say it 1000 more...LOLOL....this is an important coin in any collection. Only buy one in person! In the end, it's all about how you like the look of it. Don't just chase a deal and don't buy raw unless you can ID a fake. These are ABUNDANT on the market and easy to obtain....but you want to make sure you obtain the right one.
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Valued Member
 United States
67 Posts |
Sorry about the smorgasbord of different sized pictures. I used the uploader on this site to re size them and I think I could have done better on Photoshop. It's all a matter of how much time do I want to put into it. She will be on her way home today, insured. He will have to sigh for it. I have good pics of the coin and there are the pics on the auction that are of good enough quality to verify that it is the same coin. I see no problem with it. The guy has a good rep on ebay and as far as I am concerned, he will STILL have one after I get my refund. I don't wanna hose someone for getting hosed, if you know what I mean. BadThad, I think I will take your advice. My next purchase will be in person.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3283 Posts |
Badthad, Quote: One important thing nobody mentioned so far is the die chip in the upper loop of the MM Quote: Upstate, I found that reference and the die mark shows in the upper, inner section of the S. Looks like a little dot inside the swirl.
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Valued Member
 United States
67 Posts |
Coin returned, refund processed. In the market for a CERTIFIED coin now. I don't think I will buy another high-dollar raw coin on ebay again. Too many things that could have gone wrong. Overall, I consider myself lucky. Thanks for all the help.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1796 Posts |
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Valued Member
 United States
67 Posts |
You said it, Steve. Right now I have close to $750.00. I think the coins that I gravitate to run in the $1000.00 range which is VF30 and up. I HATE the Details designation, although there was one recolored coin that I thought was beautiful. If I am spending that kind of money on a coin I don't want to buy a problem. I am taking apart my NGC 1960's SMS competitive set (it WAS in the top 10), along with a few other certified coins I have to fund the difference. Onward and upward.
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Valued Member
 United States
67 Posts |
I would like to amend one of my last statements. Eye appeal is critical in this case. I will probably crack it out of the case anyway so I can put it with the set my dad gave me. If I find a details coin that meets that criteria, then there is no reason not to consider it. There are too many cases where you see nice pics of the slab with this little brown spot in the middle. I want to see the coin! As so many people have said in the past, it's the coin, stupid.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2295 Posts |
That is one amazing fake. Glad to hear you got your money back. It was very educational for me too. Quote:
That's very cool indeed! Just make sure to save the slab insert to prove authenticity if you ever plan to sell it...which I know you won't do anytime soon I don't understand why people think this, and I have seen it several times, but since it isn't in the slab, having a piece of paper proves nothing at all. I would never buy it, if someone told me that. Once you remove it from the slab, that grade means nothing, since it could have gotten some damage or wear, or maybe even replaced, either accidently or on purpose.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1256 Posts |
Save just a bit more and get an XF. You're too close not too. Slow pressure makes diamonds. Hold out.
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Replies: 42 / Views: 6,212 |