| Author |
 Replies: 528 / Views: 87,229 |
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
627 Posts |
A pair of enlarger lenses (one 50mm, one 75mm) for $11 plus around $4 shipping in the USA. Should be a good "starter set" for someone thinking of trying out the bellows / enlarger lens methods discussed often on this forum. The 75mm would work well for full coin pics, the 50mm for closer-up attribution of varieties, etc. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-Voss-En...271789024124 |
|
Pillar of the Community
  United States
4038 Posts |
The image quality from those two lenses will be surprisingly good. The 75mm can go up to Dollar size IF the bellows can go short enough and the stand has sufficient height. Or put them on extensions as in the $400 and $350 threads, with or without the recommended helicoid, and you will have a wide-range setup.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
|
Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
very interesting thread. love the photos of the coins. once I get use to my camera. I hope to build one of these lens. lots or really great information thanks totally enjoyed reading the whole thread
|
|
Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
hello rmpsrpms . I was wondering after reading your thread I would like to buy a lens that could do sivler dollars and loonie and twoonies. I was reading that you say the 105mm is a good size for that purpose. what I was wondering would a 135mm be to much not sure how that works but I believe you will know and can tell me thank you very much.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
rocky...in photography, bigger in one area implies bigger in other areas. If you are going to image bigger coins, you need a bigger lens (longer focal length). The bigger lens then requires a bigger copy stand (more distance from lens to coin) and also longer extension or bellows (more distance from camera to lens). What I shoot for is the smallest setups I can create that still cover the whole range of US coins, or a bit beyond. Turns out 75mm is the shortest that can do this (but must be paired with the proper bellows and adapters to work full range), which is why most all the EL-Cheapo lenses I link to in this thread are 75mm. Some bellows are not suitable for 75mm, so a longer lens (like 90mm or 105mm) can be better if you want to use one of those bellows. Going to 135mm will allow you to image very large items like the bigger medals, but to do this will require very long working distances. So you'll need a big copy stand to get far enough away from the coin. If you want to image a dime with a 135mm lens you will need a super-long bellows or to add extra extensions to a normal bellows. The advantage of a longer lens is that the extra working distance allows lots of lighting options since there is much more room between the lens and the coin. Hopefully this helps in understanding the comparison of lens lengths vs the other system implications...Ray |
|
Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
thank you ray yes it does help me to understand. I remember in the thread 400 dollar unit dave and yourself guiding rmc through the process. I have read that thread a lot. I like the way it is done. I will contact you and dave later when all the pieces come in for the lense. I had to get some work done on my hand . I will get back at my camera here a little later. I have the lamps and I will start to really set it all up in the next few weeks. thank you all so much
|
|
Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
We're not going anywhere. Work at your own pace, get with us as questions arise.
|
|
Rest in Peace
United States
4078 Posts |
I keep forgetting to book mark this thread.  Still in the learning process of coin photography. I did buy the book, "Numismatic Photography" 2nd Edition to learn the terms. As a retired couple we do have the budget to consider. If a used Cannon Digital SLRs would show up, how would you know it is still functional? We would also like the software to take the pictures from the computer. Which would be another issue being Apple people. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
I believe the EOS Utility / Zoom Browser software works fine on Macs. If you buy the camera from a reputable dealer, either directly, mail order, or via ebay, and they describe it to be fully functional then it probably is. You can always return if it has problems. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
9792 Posts |
Quote:
I believe the EOS Utility / Zoom Browser software works fine on Macs. Yes it does, as long as you are using a fairly newer camera, it doesn't work on a few of my older cameras like the EOS 1Ds mkI (Firewire only, no USB) and my 20Da/20D, 30D cameras. I'd say you really want a 64bit computer and an EOS camera newer than 2008. "Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector. See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440 |
|
Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
You need Live View for Zoom Browser to work - the Live View image is what's transmitted to the computer. Of that list, I think only the 20Da has it.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
You need at least a RebelXS/1000D or later. You can pick up full function Rebel XS on ebay for <$150. Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1314 Posts |
Thinking about a Nikon EL-Nikkor 50mm lens for my bellows. Would use it for VAM details. Is one better for my purposes, 1:2.8 or 1:4? |
|
Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Not really. Those are the widest apertures the lens is capable of, and you'll be using f/5.6 or so when magnifying because more mag means your effective aperture narrows. So instead of the usual f/8 you open it up slightly to help compensate.
That said, a wider usable aperture usually means higher quality so go for the f/2.8 if it's priced reasonably.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
Get the f/2.8, it is superior for variety details. The f/2.8 is better at f/4 than the f/4 is, and you probably don't want to go beyond f/4 if you're shooting details.
|
| |
Replies: 528 / Views: 87,229 |
First Page
Previous Page
Posted 03/15/2015 11:01 pm
