Chance To Pick Up Some Morgans

As far as the ice test goes, I would not use that on high end coins. Ice is water and, unless distilled water was used, it will contain minerals and chemicals that may damage a valuable coin.
For common circulated coins, there is probably no harm, as they have already seen enough water in their day, but be careful with anything valuable.

Thanks for the words of advice, everyone. I'm not the only person looking at these coins, so it may be a no go before it gets started.

I can't get the tissue test to work for me - tried one (of only two) of my Morgan dollars beside a clad Ike and they both look the same to me. I've got a magnet, but that may not be useable. I won't pay big money for rare dollars, but if I can get a good number for close to melt value I will definitely take the chance. I think I can spot the obvious fakes, but I'm not schooled enough to avoid the good ones. So, we will see how it goes. Will post pics for sure if I can score. Then, you all can tell me if I did well or got suckered...

Well, for better or worse, I bought a handful of the silver at the estate sale. There was a Tupperware container FULL of Morgan and Peace. Looked like probably 100-150 total. Here's what I left with ($20 each - no negotiation):

1878S, 1879, 1879S (parallel feather), 1879S (slanted feather), 1881S, 1881O, 1900O, 1926, 1927.

A couple look AU-ish, others are well worn with a rim ding here and there. I know I paid too much, but the time was right, I was there and had the cash. Will get some pictures up later and ask for opinions. Thanks!

Yes, BigSilver. Too many Morgans, too few bucks...

I figured if they were going for a good percentage below melt, I would go to the bank and get more moolah, but restrained myself.

I'm sure a few of these are hole fillers, but these 9 dollars now raise my total silver dollar count to 15.

Edit: Now I have to see if I can figure out if there are any VAMs in the bunch.

The ice test is a new one on me as well! Good luck.

Well done.

Nope; it's going to take detail images to attribute it. The location of the mint mark is a primary attribution tool, and the differences can be very minute. The first step is to narrow them down by how intact the "r" in "trust" is. Yours looks to be complete, which brings the list of potentials down to ten.

During the process, we'd probably have to look at other areas of the coin with die-specific features to finish the attribution. It's complicated by the fact that many differing pairings of the same dies happened during production, so we'd have to nail both obverse and reverse dies before being sure which VAM it is.

Well, my setup is not suited to photograph dollars. Too much light, causing the image to wash out. May have to get a different camera.