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Pillar of the Community
United States
7285 Posts |
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But that almost sounds like you disregard eye appeal? Well you commented on my collection, I believed you said I " seem to be able to swiftly buy high quality good eye appeal coins"* So I guess you answered your own comment *(Edited) instead of paraphrasing I just went back copied your post  Edited by hfjacinto
02/03/2021 11:19 pm
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Pillar of the Community
Russian Federation
5174 Posts |
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I shop locally so what ever the shop has in stock is my first choice  I understand the idea of starting with the tougher coins first, but in my "budget slowly ramping up" situation this would mean "waiting for years until I find a sufficiently mangled example". Instead I'm doing that anyway, but I'm also getting some of the less expensive types while I wait for the tough ones. (IIRC, Classic Head cents actually aren't that rare or expensive in grades below Good; it's the higher grades that are a problem. I've seen a few in the $10 range on Meshok and [if they're still there] might take the plunge some day. OTOH, the other types you mentioned are very expensive in any grade.) I suppose maybe I should instead have saved for years (probably more like months, but it depends on the type) to be able to afford that one extremely expensive non-mangled coin (again, assuming I manage to find one) all at once. This is certainly what I would have recommended, but I'm probably too impulsive for this to work, and I suspect so are most other people. I'm not looking forward to the types where it's considered useful to buy slabbed; my 7070 has no place to insert a slab, and I'm not confident in my ability to open one. Chances are I'd probably end up putting at least one fake into the 7070 and not knowing. |
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
5191 Posts |
And when doing a 7070 set, all of you look for all the coins at once, or you work only on a small subset at the time and ignore the other coins for a while?
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Moderator
 United States
189142 Posts |
My 7070 has been in progress since 1993. It was immediately filled with over twenty coins that I already had. From there it was filled with buys from a local coin shop or the local coins shows. There was no rhyme or reason. I had a list, I had a budget; I just bought what I could afford when I found it. In the first ten years I added over twenty more coins. In the next ten years I added twelve. In the last seven I have added another twelve. The most recent purchase (seated dollar, no motto) was from the coin show a year ago (just before the lock-down). The purchase previous to that (the Trade dollar) was from a CCF member. Coins shows are no go for me until this crap ends, so I have been looking on ebay for that last Seated dollar (motto). I have not bit yet. I really hope I can buy that one at the fall coin show this year. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5191 Posts |
@jbuck,
that sounds like a very long time to complete a 7070 set, albeit understandable if one limits oneself to LCS and coin shows only.
Edited by NumisEd
02/04/2021 1:00 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
When I did my 7070, I made a list of all the coins I needed and researched prices in various grade ranges that I was interested. I'd usually target a grade and then include price targets one summary grade below and one above. So if I said I wanted a VF coin for a particular slot, I'd also figure out pricing for F and XF / EF in addition to VF. That way I could kind of compare in between prices, whether I'd go a grade higher or lower if I got a great deal, etc. Once the list was set, I'd usually target 2-3 coins at a time just so that the choices weren't so overwhelming. I would use saved searches on ebay, go to coin shows, local shops, etc. and go (quickly) through thousands of coins for every one I bought. One way I would narrow searches was to look for specific dates or date ranges. Still, sometimes, it would be months before I found something; other times, it could be pretty quick. Occasionally I'd make a mistake and buy a coin that was not quite what I wanted, stick it in a 2x2 and keep looking if I couldn't or didn't want to return it. I had a budget so that also slowed me down some. Occasionally, I'd come across a really great coin outside of what I was currently looking for and just pull the trigger and buy it. That's how I got my Seated Liberty dollar with Motto for example. A lot of the coins in the 7070 are pretty easy to obtain, mostly the more modern stuff so that was mostly just going and buying something since there were so many choices. For example, a Walking Liberty half. There's tons of those in nice grades out there for cheap prices. Others are harder and I spent months looking. Good luck with your 7070, had a blast putting mine together! Edited by KenKat
02/04/2021 1:20 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7285 Posts |
One thing you have to take into consideration is cost/grade. For example all my moderns are PF69 (for proofs) or MS65-66 for clad and the reason for that is that prices jump up in higher grades. An MS67 coin like an Ugly Ben 50 cent is 4-5 times an MS65/66, same with PF70 modern coins.
When I went to get the quarters, I went with silver and proof, I paid around $11/$12 each in PF69, in PF$70, they were $30+, so do you want 3 quarters at PF69 or 1 at PF70. Your budget and what you want to get will decide how many you buy.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5191 Posts |
Quote: I would use saved searches on ebay, go to coin shows, local shops, etc. and go (quickly) through thousands of coins for every one I bought. One way I would narrow searches was to look for specific dates or date ranges. Still, sometimes, it would be months before I found something; other times, it could be pretty quick. But to the point I am making, what you describe ("go through thousands of coins") is not very efficient. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7285 Posts |
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But to the point I am making, what you describe ("go through thousands of coins") is not very efficient. I really think you are over thinking it. Here is my search for 2 cents, I have 38 coins and all are over the price/value that I seek, so for today, this is a no.  This is my search for 3 cent nickels, of the 28 coins there are 2 coins on here that I would get, but I'm budgeted out (at my LCS) until March, so unless these coins are still available, I won't buy any.  After I buy these, I delete the searches and use another 2-3 to buy what I am missing. But remember I would rather buy locally first, so many searches get deleted without me buying anything if I find what I want locally. Its not hard. Edited by hfjacinto
02/04/2021 2:25 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5191 Posts |
Here is my search for a 1859 cent. As you can see, I have to dig through 1,052 results.  Edited by NumisEd
02/04/2021 2:35 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7285 Posts |
You're search is too broad. I personally wouldn't buy any RAW coin from ebay. That's me. Here check out this place, the selection is limited and IMO the prices are better than ebay. www.allensinc.com/coins/us/indian_cents.htm Call them to get a picture of the coin. Edited by hfjacinto
02/04/2021 2:36 pm
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Moderator
United States
189142 Posts |
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that sounds like a very long time to complete a 7070 set, albeit understandable if one limits oneself to LCS and coin shows only. The larger reason was my budget and wanting to fill other albums as well. For what it is worth, I bought the 7070 after I completed my 8176 (Ike) and did not really attack it until after some of the other albums were filled or at least up to date. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
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But to the point I am making, what you describe ("go through thousands of coins") is not very efficient. Part of me says it's the only way to build a really nice set that you can be happy with. I try to fill each slot with a coin that has the look and character that fits the set. I am on a budget so some coins have flaws, but the eye appeal vs. price trade-off is positive. The other thing I would say is to filter down results. On an 1859 cent, what's a nice one in your grade cost? $50? $100? Ignore everything below a certain price. That $0.06 one is probably not going to be the one you want. And if it's nice, it will get bid up and eventually make your filter. I also would sort by "Newly Listed" so I wouldn't revisit the same coins more than once. Finally. I'd review the listings on my iPad - I can scroll through a page full of garbage coins pretty quickly. You don't have to look at every coin. If it doesn't catch your eye on the list page, forget about it. Maybe a couple of nice ones get away but there's plenty more always coming up. Edited by KenKat
02/04/2021 4:38 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5191 Posts |
I'm actually looking for a mid-to-high AU (graded) 1859 IHC. I guess it will cost me a couple hundred dollars. But good point about setting a minimum price, as nobody probably is going to sell it for less than say $200. Still I worry I might "miss out" of an auction that starts at say $0.99 if I set a minimum price and sort by "newly listed". Edited by NumisEd
02/04/2021 4:44 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7053 Posts |
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Replies: 19 / Views: 2,482 |
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Posted 02/04/2021 02:53 am
