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 Replies: 23 / Views: 4,658 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
That low weight would be very concerning to me. I've never seen a copper cent weigh that low with that much detail still intact.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
6116 Posts |
Thanks for the great comments. I will need to try and look up what the die gouge above the RU looks like, as might be something light there but need a shape to match.
I'm not overly concerned about the weight, as it shows all the signs of a slightly tapered planchet, but just worried that it would be a hard sell down the road without something on there other than mm placement to guarantee it is legit. The coin was in a slip when I bought it, and I could see the cleaning and damage, but without a solid marker and the unique weakness I honestly think it's be troublesome to sell it as too many people would find too many things odd about it.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
713 Posts |
Die #2 should have a very small tangent/tail at the base of the second 9 of the date that I am not seeing in your date close-up.  |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
5684 Posts |
@coop, your photo of die 3 is actually die 2, and the photo of die 2 is actually another die 4.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5684 Posts |
@tropicalbats, here's a picture of the small die gouge or scratch over the letters RU in TRUST. It's cropped from a Heritage photo, so not the greatest image, but at least it gives you the location.  |
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Valued Member
United States
356 Posts |
Quote:
Take four very important steps: Uh..... sel_691.... Evidently you may not have seen who initiated this post. With over 3,000 posts, and a boat load of excellent coins, I'm sure tropicalbats knows what he is doing. I really don't think he is a "newbie"...... just my opinion. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6116 Posts |
Hey Zurie, thanks for that image! Sadly, it does not have that marker, as that would have been exactly what I needed to nail it down for anyone with questions. Starting to think that short of getting a "genuine" label on it that this bugger would be a tough sell. If it didn't have all the damage It'd be fine, and if it didn't have the tapered planchet it'd be fine, but with both things and no markers it's just too fishy for most folks to go for.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
Edited by coop
03/14/2021 5:04 pm
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4618 Posts |
 Yep, what coop said!  ANA ID: 3203813 - CONECA ID: N-5637 Clean a coin that may be worth collecting? Please DON'T! When in doubt, leave it dirty!! 
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
Well I fixed the issues with the first set of images.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3003 Posts |
coop,
i downloaded it for the knowledge files...
just one recommendation,
recommend the vertical line stay against the right or left side of the mintmark for consistency and perspective.
good stuff. lately I have been looking at 1909 Lincolns.
EDIT: maybe better to keep the vertical line on the left side of the ZERO...or down the center like in two of your pictures
Edited by levelsofmadnes
03/14/2021 5:43 pm
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
6244 Posts |
Me I use those photos for this year mint mark, also for detection of the fake.  Images from article: https://www.NGCcoin.com/news/articl...ncoln-Cents/On fake: (quote)The crossbar of the "B" and the base of the "D" are flat on the right coin, which is altered, while they are angled on the right coin, which is genuine. The authentic piece also has some Strike Doubling on the letters of VDB, which would likely not be seen on coins where the VDB was added. Silvio PS: Not to good on photo editing like Coop but in 150 years from now I will catch up. Edited by silviosi
03/14/2021 6:40 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
  CoopHome : What to look for on the genuine 1909-S VDB cents. Edited by coop
03/14/2021 7:22 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5684 Posts |
@tb, it could be genuine anyway, since not all obverse die 2 coins will have that marker, and the date/mm are spot on. And from what little you can see of the VDB, that looks okay too. It certainly would be easier to sell by getting it graded and authenticated first. If you send it in, perhaps it would help to indicate that it might be a tapered planchet so they don't quickly dismiss it based on weight alone.i
Also, you might want to carefully remove some of the verdigris from the upper loop of the S, because I think I can see a hint of that die chip hiding under there.
Edited by Zurie
03/14/2021 7:28 pm
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Posted 03/13/2021 2:14 pm
